Here's some additional thoughts -- some of my criteria for fixed blade goodness.

- It should have a little notch at the base of the blade, so you can sharpen the entire length of the blade without running into the ricasso.

- It should match whatever sharpening system you like. That is, for jig or guide systems it should have enough flat area to clamp or orient the knife during sharpening. (Not a problem if you sharpen freehand or with a V rig like the Spyderco Sharpmaker.)

- It should have a sheath and attachment features that match your preferred carry and use.

- It should have a full-tang blade and a slab handle. I think micarta is the best overall material for durability, imperviousness to solvents, and good tactile (and aesthetic) qualities.

- I like single-edged clip point blades with lots of belly as being the best all-round cutters. Dropped points are good too. I don't like (American geometric) tanto points.

- The stock thickness should match the overall blade size. I prefer thicknesses in the range of 1/8 to 3/16 inches. 1/4 inch stock always seems too thick to me.

- For an all-purpose, largish knife, the back or spine of the blade should have enough width and rounded corners to support batoning.

- A lanyard hole is a must.

That's all that comes to mind for now.