For any kind of precise "triangulation" (I assume you actually mean resection) you'd need a highly accurate compass. Ideally a prismatic one, such as the British Army issue Francis Baker M73:
http://www.ravenlore.co.uk/html/prismatic_compass.htmlThese are very expensive toys, but note that they're not fitted with a spirit level or even a tripod mount. BTW, I've never had any issues using a compass on steep slopes. The magnetic needle itself is a good enough indicator if you're holding the compass level - if not, the needle won't swing freely anyway and it will be impossible to take a bearing.
Army issue gear does not imply it's free of flaws. Take any prismatic disk based liquid filled compass and try tilting it a little in various direction, while looking through the eyepiece. You'll see what I mean. Also observe the speed your disk/needle goes back horizontally. It is slow enough to be a bad bubble level substitute, especially if you are in a hurry to make a quick fix at your walking direction.
As for a tripod mount, I can't see any utility in that unless you're a land surveyor using a professional surveying compass (the $5 eBay special isn't going to cut it). Keep in mind that pretty much any photo tripod out there uses a steel screw to secure the camera. Not exactly a good idea if you intend to mount a compass...
My hiking stick/monopod is aluminum alloy, including the screw, and I see the utility in using it when necessary as I do have professional surveyor training and work experience (even though quite dated and with military roots; by the way, my military battlefield surveying tools were far less advanced compared to that $5 eBay compass, but still all of my rather small training targets were always hit from the second burst). Also, for those liking the mirror to measure azimuth of peaks and tall trees, what do you think will happen to your data, if your compass is not level when measuring at the top of the slit?
P.S.: If you want to check the accuracy of your compass I would recommend a better method instead. Go some place with a clear field of view to easily identifiable landmarks (such as mountain tops) as distant as possible. Take bearings to each individual landmark. Now take a good map (Google Earth works, too!), identify your location and measure the angles to each landmark in question. They should correspond more or less exactly with the bearings taken with your compass, correcting for the magnetic declination obviously.
That's a bad method, as I can see at least 4 opportunities, where an error can be introduced (and not compensated by each other). Also "more or less exactly" is not an acceptable criteria for compass calibration either
So, I'm still not convinced that I must have a brand named $100 ancient mechanics plastic compass with the view obscuring mirror, instead of the $5 "prismatic", where the unreliable expensive prism on a hinge is replaced with the retracting direct view eyepiece (which is a huge improvement of the measurement technology having direct impact on reliability and precision).
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