Back in my younger days, I climbed Mt Hood about 12-15 times, by about 4 to 5 distinct routes and variations, including one climb in mid-winter. The standard "Southside" route is not terribly hard, but does have one stretch of steep climbing almost at the top (the "Hogsback" above "Crater Rock"). The lower part of the route, from Timberline lodge up to Crater Rock" is a broad, open, easy walk up.

It is an easy route to underestimate, and lots of inexperienced people get into trouble every season. Even experienced climbers get careless and come to grief now and then. My experience on Mt Hood was decades ago, so I can't speak to the current climbing registration issues. However, the most fundamental mistake she made was navigation. A simple map and compass, and a bit of knowledge would have kept her out of trouble.

Descending the Southside route in clear weather, one just naturally aims towards Timberline Lodge. However, the actual fall line is more to the Southwest. When descending from Crater Rock in poor visibility (very common on Mt Hood), that fall line will inexorably funnel you down into Zig Zag Canyon. Early in the season the snow on the upper mountain tends to be windpacked, icy, and easy walking. However, once you get down near timberline and Zig Zag Canyon the snow often becomes much softer and travel can be difficult without skis or snowshoes.

A typical scenario seems to be climbers descend in a whiteout and get funneled into the Canyon. Just when they are getting really tired, they find themselves in a steep canyon, slogging through deep soft snow, and it is getting dark. It happens so often that Portland Mountain Rescue has a warning pamphlet called the "Mount Hood Triangle", and also a simple map of the key features. A compass and a simple map like that would have made all the difference.

Staying out of trouble in the first place beats any PLB!


Edited by AKSAR (04/05/13 02:18 AM)
Edit Reason: odd and ends
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