I don't know as I would give up using chlorine bleach entirely.

I suspect that a good part of the corrosion issue comes from simple overuse. I've pitted my share of stainless steel pans and silverware using bleach too enthusiastically. It is easy to splash in some bleach and wing the concentration. The shift from 'regular' to 'ultra' bleach over the last few years has made overuse still easier.

The standard concentration of bleach to water to disinfect surfaces is one in ten. This is what is used for disinfecting surfaces contaminated by HIV, Hep-C, flu, you-name-it. Higher concentrations are Not more effective nor do they work any faster. Most people use far higher concentrations of bleach than necessary.

But remember that bleach is a good disinfectant but a lousy cleaner. For the best bacteriological safety you want to clean, scrub with soap and water to remove the bulk crud, and follow up by disinfecting with a bleach solution.

The action of copper inducing corrosion on aluminum is primarily a saltwater issue because the saltwater is both conductive and corrosive on its own but galvanic corrosion can cause some pitting of aluminum in fresh water. Same mechanism and effect but much more slowly.

In saltwater just scraping the aluminum with copper, transferring tiny bits of copper, can be enough to cause a reaction. Doing electrical work on a boat, particularly an aluminum hulled boat, it is wise to police all wire cut-offs. A lot of mechanics spread out and work on top of a piece of canvas. This keeps waste under control, and keeps dropped tools from falling into the bilge.

If the goal is an actual hole saltwater and a solid copper penny, as opposed to the more modern copper plated zinc, are the optimum ingredients for success.

If you wish to observe this effect it is simple enough to mix up some saltwater in an aluminum soda can and drop in a pre-1982, solid copper, penny. Clean the penny, slightly scratching the aluminum, and increasing the heat all speed the process. This is a fun experiment for kids.