Art, you beat me to it, although I don;t think I would've been able to go into so much detail.

No matter if the knife is hollow-ground, flat-ground, full or partial convexed, or "Scandinavian" ground, and no matter how razor sharp the knife is, edge strength depends on the thickness of steel behind the edge. The actual edge grind is different than the sharpeness of that same edge.

So, if you want a large knife to handle chopping well, you'd probably like to keep the edge grind a little "obtuse", say 20 degrees or more....or less. For a slicing knife, like a dedicated skinner or caper, you might like a nice hollow grind with a 12-1/2 or 15 degree edge...or so. But in either case, for me anyway, I want the edge just as razor sharp as I can get it...and then some. Even on a large knife I might want to use only for chopping.

And one more time another plug for the Bark River and other convex-ground knives. There is plenty of steel behind the edge for any task you assign the knife, they're easy to get *razor sharp*, and, at least with Bark River's A-2 or 12C27 steel, they're quick and easy to bring back the edge after use.