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#99247 - 07/06/07 11:40 AM Re: My first Mora [Re: hercdoc]
Coastie09 Offline
I didn't float test my chipping hammer, honest Chief!

Registered: 03/22/06
Posts: 104
Loc: Connecticut

I don't know if you noticed, but the #840 was included in that gear list. It was the last piece of gear that I bought and it completed my pack (I really wanted a fixed blade). I got it about two weeks ago.

Thanks for keeping me honest! wink

(Post 100!!)

#99252 - 07/06/07 12:57 PM Re: My first Mora [Re: Coastie09]
simplesimon Offline

Registered: 09/28/05
Posts: 133
it's the ravings of a madman! get out there and spend on gear; then lie to your wife about how much. it's what men do...

#99258 - 07/06/07 03:46 PM Re: My first Mora [Re: simplesimon]
MichaelJ Offline

Registered: 08/30/04
Posts: 114
I bought a model #911. It's slightly bigger than I expected but feels great in my hand. I plan to use it to learn knife craft and general bushcraft. If I were to order it again, I'd order the more basic wood handled one. As has been stated many times on this board; "you don't feel bad about abusing a $10 knife."

#99259 - 07/06/07 04:00 PM Re: My first Mora [Re: simplesimon]
Coastie09 Offline
I didn't float test my chipping hammer, honest Chief!

Registered: 03/22/06
Posts: 104
Loc: Connecticut
No wife for me, simplesimon - so it's that much easier to go overboard on gear!

#99263 - 07/06/07 05:28 PM Re: My first Mora [Re: JRR]
91gdub Offline

Registered: 11/12/06
Posts: 172
Loc: South Jersey (the 51st state)
I have a Mora (don't remember which model #) that I found many years ago. I have beat the H3LL out of it and it still takes a good edge. Knife is great, cheap plastic scabbard is kind of tacky though.

Keep it in my GHB now.
Bill Houston

#99276 - 07/06/07 06:50 PM Re: My first Mora [Re: 91gdub]
Chris Kavanaugh Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/09/01
Posts: 3824
www.outdoors-magazine.com/s.article.php?id_article=152 gives a nice field comparison of the Mora 2000 and a Russel #1. My current Mora carry is the #780 Craftsman. It is .097 thick,4 1/8" laminated blade, thumb guard and lanyard hole with a lousy sheath for the staggering sum of $11 + $5 shipping. A 2000 @ .098 thick, 4 1/2" stainless blade, functional sheath, ergonomic handle, no lanyard hole or guard will cost you $31.50 + $5 shipping.The caveat is these are factory mass produced knives. OOB they are excellent value. But a little preliminary resharpening to true things up will make good cutters into fantastic cutters. I've often mentioned the carbon moras as one of the few knives with sufficient carbon content and rockwell to spark off a flint. I've learned not all Moras will have the stated Rockwell depending on lot and the spine may require some file work to present a nice square edge for flint or metal match. The carbon blades will rust. If these are to go into BOBs or distributed as spare blades S/S are worth consideration. Aftermarket sheaths in Kydex are available for many Moras, ironically costing more than the knife! Once assembled you have a nice system for little outlay.Again, Moras are excellent training knives and excellent options for supplying multiple kits. For the price you won't mourn loss or damage ( which should be a red flag of operator error anyway)so much as a $200 blade. A dedicated survival blade, such as my Fallkniven F 1 is still a good option- if you have the resources.If not, a Mora is better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

#99306 - 07/07/07 05:05 AM Re: My first Mora [Re: Chris Kavanaugh]
Todd W Offline
Product Tester

Registered: 11/14/04
Posts: 1928
Loc: Mountains of CA
Hey Chris the URL didn't go through frown for the product review.
Self Sufficient Home - Our journey to self sufficiency.

#99309 - 07/07/07 12:27 PM Re: My first Mora [Re: Todd W]
marantz Offline

Registered: 03/03/03
Posts: 40
Chris - the hyperlink for the knife comparison didn't work for me either, although the url for that page was identical, once I drilled down to it, except for missing the www. ?? Maybe you and the other webmaster can figure it out.

I bought several Moras from Ragnar a while ago, including Eriksson 746-G and 946, and Frost 860 and 780. The first three all have softer rubber coated handles, and right handed sheaths, while the 780 has a hard plastic handle, and an ambidextrous sheath.

I haven't abused them (yet) but in general I like the grips on the rubber coated handles better than the hard plastic handles; they feel less slippery. My favorite is probably the 746-G, because of the handle. I should say was, since I showed them to a friend of mine who traps, and offered him one for a gift, and the 746-G was the one he picked. I wear M to L gloves, and he wears XL gloves, and we both thought its grip the most comfortable. YMMV. He also said it was the sharpest knife he ever used out of the box. They're slicers all right.

Now if they only made a left handed sheath for it. Sigh... I guess I might have to break down and start playing around with Kydex, as soon as Ragnar gets that knife back in stock. So many knives, so little time...

#99310 - 07/07/07 01:02 PM Re: My first Mora [Re: Todd W]
JCWohlschlag Offline
Some guy who wandered in…
Old Hand

Registered: 11/26/06
Posts: 724
Loc: Dallas, Pennsylvania, United S...
Working link for the Outdoors Magazine "Field Comparison; Grohmann #1 vs Mora 2000" article: http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=152
“Hiking is just walking where it’s okay to pee. Sometimes old people hike by mistake.” — Demitri Martin

#99317 - 07/07/07 06:54 PM Re: My first Mora [Re: JRR]
Leigh_Ratcliffe Offline

Registered: 03/31/06
Posts: 1355
Loc: United Kingdom.
Any of the Frost's/Mora range will do the job. As a general use knife either the 740 which has a moulded handle, high carbon blade, Clip point. Or the Frost's/Mora clipper 840 high carbon / 860 stainless knife with it's "Pachmyer" type rubberised grip.

The 740 is the issue knife for the Swedish Army. Great knife. Takes a shaving edge very easily.

The 840/860 are probably the best knife's of their type on the market. They are a popular choice with bushcraft schools. Particularly the 840. It takes around 2 min's to sharpen the spine up to something that gives a massive number of sparks when used with a ferro rod.

I own 2 740's, 2 840's and 1 860. They are so cheap that not having a couple to stash in a bail out kit is unwise. If I was building kits to a Sub $100 budget they would be the first choice. The only points that you do need to be aware of are:

1) They are not sharpened prybar's. Pry with them and you will break them. They can be batoned with.
2) The 740 and 840 are carbon steel. They will rust if put away wet. That is the price you pay for such a good edge. If you expect to use them in a wet enviroment they need to be protected. A small amount of petrolium jelly or oil on the blade will do the job.
3) If it's a salt water enviroment go for the 860.

Weight wise they are very light. Deliberatly. That is so that they can be hung from a button on your coat. You don't even know it's there.

I could go on for hours. It's one of the very few "cheap" knives that have impressed me.
I don't do dumb & helpless.

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