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#298466 - 02/23/21 03:49 PM Light output relative to weight of headlamps
hikermor Offline
Geezer in Chief
Geezer

Registered: 08/26/06
Posts: 7447
Loc: southern Cal
Pondering how much light I got for different battery types, I resorted to manufacturers published figures - for a given output, in lumens, how long would a light provide illumination, relative to its weight.

Bottom line - lithium ion batteries are considerably more efficient than AA, providing almost three times longer light.

I compared a Zebralight H53, with rechargeable batteries against a Zabralight H600, equipped with 18650 battery @3000mAh.

H53 provided 4.2 hours at 106 lumens, weighing 2.8 oz.

H600 provided 13.6 hours at 126 lumens weighing 3.3 oz.

I assume roughly comparable results at different lumen outputs.

I have both models and I like them equally - sturdy and dependable, but I can hike all night with the 600 - not the case with the 53.

Comments welcome...
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#298467 - 02/23/21 04:10 PM Re: Light output relative to weight of headlamps [Re: hikermor]
chaosmagnet Offline
Sheriff
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/03/09
Posts: 3510
Loc: USA
Good analysis.

I like looking at a number of factors in a headlamp:

  • Is this for regular use or going to be squirreled away in a kit? For regular use headlamps I really like either onboard USB-rechargeable or a commonly sized rechargeable LiIon cell. For kit headlamps, I prefer a common primary cell available in lithium (there's the now-discontinued Fenix HL50 that takes either 1xAA or 1xCR123A).
  • Size and weight.
  • Mode spacing and UI.
  • Minimum output (very useful for not waking up Mrs. Magnet).
  • Max output.
  • Runtime, particularly at what is likely to be the most common output levels.

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#298469 - 02/23/21 05:43 PM Re: Light output relative to weight of headlamps [Re: hikermor]
Ren Offline
Enthusiast

Registered: 11/05/07
Posts: 296
Loc: Wales, UK
This is going to also depend on temperature.

Lithium ion performance drops off in colder temperatures, at around -20C (-4F) would expect 50% less performance.

Whereas the H53 could run on LiFeS2 (Energizer L91) primaries which are good to -40C (-40F)


Edited by Ren (02/23/21 05:58 PM)

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#298470 - 02/23/21 06:12 PM Re: Light output relative to weight of headlamps [Re: chaosmagnet]
hikermor Offline
Geezer in Chief
Geezer

Registered: 08/26/06
Posts: 7447
Loc: southern Cal
These lamps are used regularly. Interestingly enough, my regularly packed bag contains AA lithium primaries as backup for the H53, I do also carry a backup LiOn for the H600, which I check periodically(every three months).

Good point about temps. My performance level is depressed, as well, at -40(F or C, makes little difference).
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#298471 - 02/23/21 06:40 PM Re: Light output relative to weight of headlamps [Re: chaosmagnet]
Ren Offline
Enthusiast

Registered: 11/05/07
Posts: 296
Loc: Wales, UK
Originally Posted By: chaosmagnet
Good analysis.

I like looking at a number of factors in a headlamp:

  • Is this for regular use or going to be squirreled away in a kit? For regular use headlamps I really like either onboard USB-rechargeable or a commonly sized rechargeable LiIon cell. For kit headlamps, I prefer a common primary cell available in lithium (there's the now-discontinued Fenix HL50 that takes either 1xAA or 1xCR123A).
  • Size and weight.
  • Mode spacing and UI.
  • Minimum output (very useful for not waking up Mrs. Magnet).
  • Max output.
  • Runtime, particularly at what is likely to be the most common output levels.



If it's for a kit, also a mechanical lockout. Though believe most aluminium bodied lights have it, just by unscrewing battery cap a half-twist to break the connection.

That first point was why like AA/14500 lights. 14500 with onboard USB for regular times, but can have AA lithium primaries on hand when that runs out and can't recharge.

Noticed Zebralight dropped 14500 support in the H53, pretty sure they had it in the H52.

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#298472 - 02/23/21 08:34 PM Re: Light output relative to weight of headlamps [Re: Ren]
chaosmagnet Offline
Sheriff
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/03/09
Posts: 3510
Loc: USA
Originally Posted By: Ren
If it's for a kit, also a mechanical lockout. Though believe most aluminium bodied lights have it, just by unscrewing battery cap a half-twist to break the connection.


Where this works, it's great. Where it doesn't, I use a label printer to create a "REMOVE BEFORE USE" tag that I put between the base of the battery and the battery cap, leaving enough of the tag out of the screw threads to be very noticeable. I haven't had any issues doing that so far, but I'd definitely suggest that one make sure to test that the label doesn't do something Bad to the threads.

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