Equipped To Survive Equipped To Survive® Presents
The Survival Forum
Where do you want to go on ETS?

Page 2 of 2 < 1 2
Topic Options
#294507 - 01/07/20 03:39 AM Re: A Knotty Problem Solved [Re: Doug_Ritter]
GoatRider Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 08/28/04
Posts: 834
Loc: Maple Grove, MN
I had a discussion about this paper with someone who has access to the original. They tested 6 knots, and ranked them. They didn't find the "6 best knots". The order of the knots are:

1. Zeppelin
2. Alpine butterfly
3. Reef
4. Granny
5. Thief
6. Grief (aka "Whatnot" in Ashley)
_________________________
- Benton

Top
#294518 - 01/08/20 04:12 PM Re: A Knotty Problem Solved [Re: GoatRider]
hikermor Offline
Geezer in Chief
Geezer

Registered: 08/26/06
Posts: 7193
Loc: southern Cal
I would love to see comparative evaluations of a bowline, double bowline, and a rewoven figure eight, all knots employed in tieing in to a climbing rope.The bowline used to be the standard, but the figure eight is now considered superior.

In sixty years of technical climbing and rescue work, i have never had need to tie an alpine butterfly. How does it stack up against a figure eight?
_________________________
Geezer in Chief

Top
#294520 - 01/08/20 08:55 PM Re: A Knotty Problem Solved [Re: Doug_Ritter]
clearwater Online   content
Old Hand

Registered: 03/19/05
Posts: 1159
Loc: Channeled Scablands
The main reason for the Alpine Butterfly as I understand, is it's ease to untie after loading. Say some sort of crevasse rescue/raising situation where there is tremendous load on the knot. I haven't seen anyone use it for a tie in near the bitter end tho. Only for a mid point knot to form a loop.

I haven't used them, prefer a double bowline since it is also easy to untie and spreads the wear on two loops of rope. The double bowline is common when building a Banshee belay anchor too.

Top
#294529 - 01/09/20 02:04 PM Re: A Knotty Problem Solved [Re: Doug_Ritter]
hikermor Offline
Geezer in Chief
Geezer

Registered: 08/26/06
Posts: 7193
Loc: southern Cal
The double bowline, AKA bowline on a bight, is said to have the same quality. I have used the knot in rigging up the hoist for a mammoth skull fossil, which we later weighed at 1100 pounds. The knot untied easily, after being loaded for about thirty minutes.
_________________________
Geezer in Chief

Top
#294540 - 01/10/20 08:11 PM Re: A Knotty Problem Solved [Re: Doug_Ritter]
clearwater Online   content
Old Hand

Registered: 03/19/05
Posts: 1159
Loc: Channeled Scablands
I have used a sheep shank to create an easily untied after loading pair of loops for the trucker's hitch. You just have to run the moving line thru both loops to prevent the knot from rolling undone.

Never seen anyone else do this.

Wonder what are the strength/failure potential?

Even used it for a Tyrollean traverse, (with backup overhead line), over a small creek.

Top
Page 2 of 2 < 1 2



Moderator:  Alan_Romania, Blast, cliff, Hikin_Jim 
April
Su M Tu W Th F Sa
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18
19 20 21 22 23 24 25
26 27 28 29 30
Who's Online
1 registered (nursemike), 203 Guests and 4 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
Enoob, StrangerInTheWoods, Tauricornous, Jackandco, lis
5308 Registered Users
Newest Posts
How to use a mask
by clearwater
Reever Knot with tutorial link
by TonyE
07:41 PM
What Have We Learned?
by M_a_x
07:11 PM
MacGyvering the coronavirus
by Ren
06:30 PM
Small Scalpel Blade Holder / Handle
by Ren
04:38 PM
Plague humor - Chad
by pforeman
01:56 PM
Tech talk - time to update, charge and test gear
by LCranston
01:52 PM
Things I have learned recently
by MartinFocazio
01:29 AM
Newest Images
Tiny knife / wrench
Handmade knives
2"x2" Glass Signal Mirror, Retroreflective Mesh
Trade School Tool Kit
My Pocket Kit
Glossary
Test

WARNING & DISCLAIMER: SELECT AND USE OUTDOORS AND SURVIVAL EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES AND TECHNIQUES AT YOUR OWN RISK. Information posted on this forum is not reviewed for accuracy and may not be reliable, use at your own risk. Please review the full WARNING & DISCLAIMER about information on this site.