Just so nobody misunderstands my intention, I do not recommend doing these things with your knife, just that I have done them before and had serious consequences. It is not something that I chose, nor would I choose it now if given another option. It is just my rationalization for why I prefer a knife that costs a bit more.

Montanero gives a perfect description of a situation where a "sharpened, indestructible pry bar" knife makes perfect sense, primarily because one can only carry so much. But as I follow this thread, I feel more and more that having an assortment of pry bars and levers conveniently at hand makes good sense.

You can get anything from a key ring type "widget" to a hefty iron rod six feet long at your local big box hardware store. They can be destroyed, if that is possible, with no regrets and they can easily be improvised. I find I am carrying my light pry bar more and more, although for a fairly specialized task, but I can see it being useful in many situations, including SD if it came to that.

A pry bar makes a good supplement to a generalized, reasonably good quality (Mora) knife for a lot of situations.

The more I read on sharpened pry-bars (I have a few) the more content I am with a quality locking folder and a Cold Steel shovel. Toss in a cheap Stanley pry-bar and there's no reason the break your tools.

True enough. When you think about it, a typical overbuilt "survival" knife these days costs at least $100. For that money you get a blade that doesn't cut very well and really isn't as strong or practical for prying as a proper prybar.

On the other hand, you could get a Mora and a compact prybar for $20-30. This combo would weigh no more than a heavy duty survival knife and provide you with two excellent tools, one for cutting/bushcrafting tasks and one for prying/heavy duty stuff. Heck, a Mora weighs less than an M9 magazine w/ 15 rds of 9mm.

Three new Mora knives -- all full-tang:

Eldris 2.2" blade .08 spine 2.8 oz (comes with neck knife kit)

Garberg 4.3" blade .13 spine 9.6 oz (new sheath/mounting)

Kansbol 4.3" blade .10 spine 4.7 oz (new sheath/mounting)


http://outdoornews.morakniv.se

Thanks Dagny. The stock and grind of the Kansbol is very interesting.

Its kind of ironic reading this for me since I bought my very first Mora knife specifically for digging out plants.

When in college - in the summer of '85 - I took a field botany class and needed something to help me cut stems at the ground and dig out plant roots. Not wanting to trash my Buck folder, so I went to the local Pamida store (do the still exist?) to look for a cheap knife. I found a cheap odd looking fixed blade knife with a black plastic handle and sheath. Perfect.

I beat the heck out of that knife and it never bent nor did the blade chip. After the class was over I sharpened it and was surprised by how sharp it got, so I've carried it in my truck ever since. It wasn't until many MANY years later when I learned about Mora knives through equipped.org that I realized that my truck knife was a Mora knife.

I got my first Mora roughly the same way - I was looking for a beater to use in my wood shop. It is now my go to knife in the kitchen - my sweetie doesn't like sharp knives, so I keep the sharpened Mora off in a quiet corner. It's still cutting like a champ after thirty years....

Dagny wrote:
> Three new Mora knives -- all full-tang:

But the only one I can see them saying is full tang is the
Garberg.

Am I missing some part of the web page? (http://outdoornews.morakniv.se)

qjs

Has anyone tried the countycomm.com EOD Breacher Bar?

It looks like a prybar someone ground an edge on. also about 20.00

Montanero-I have never broken the blade on the Cold Steel Special Forces Shovel, but I have broken a handle. -- It was stupid 25 year old playing- using it as a throwing axe at camp- it hit wrong and snapped. Brought a new handle to 8.00, good as new.

I also have a bit of an issue with rust-- I keep one in the back seat (floor) of my car. I have it in the sheath/case. It gets damp back there from the kids boots, and the edge (the not painted part) gets red all the time.
I have a second one that I keep in my wife's car. The kids use it at the beach enough that most of the paint came off. even though thoroughly cleaned, I had issues with surface rust with it sitting under the seat in her van. I sanded, then repainted with Rustoleum to prevent more.

I h