Surefire Breaks New Ground with 1xAAA Titan & Titan Plus

Surefire has been synonymous with high-performance, high-end flashlights, but you'd never accuse them of being particularly affordable. SHOT Show marked a revolution as Surfire upended expectations with its new 1xAAA Titan and Titan Plus flashlights, both in terms of price and EDC performance.

Get all the details on these revolutionary EDC flashlights from Surefire: http://www.equipped.org/blog/?p=646

as a huge fan of 1xAAA 'lights, this is news indeed.

thnx doug.

$60 is not bad at all. I almost ignored the original post because Surefire is typically out of my price range.

It is always good to see quality products come to market, but I think the Fenix LD02, 100 lumens,3 light levels,a rear clicky and half the price offers pretty stiff competition. Decisions, decisions...

You really have to see the beam in action to appreciate what a difference it makes... How Surefire gets that unique attribute across will be an interesting marketing effort

And *POOF* more of my money disappears because of Doug/ETS...
-Blast, who won't have to carry strips of magnesium any more.

SWEET! I'm a pretty big Surefire fan. I got my first one maybe 15 or even 20 years ago; it was a Nitrolon G2 back when they were all incandescent. Great light for the time but battery life was poor. I think I have five Surefires now, all LED, counting the X300 Ultra WML I keep on my HK carbine.

I'm pretty happy with my keychain EDC, a Fenix E01, but I'll certainly be looking for the Surefire to examine. It's great that they're releasing a few cheaper models, at least provided the quality is still there. Granted, I'd have more Surefires than I do if they were cheaper but I have never regretted a dime that I've spent on any of their products.

The beam shape of the Titan will need to be very compelling for me to invest in a AAA back-up light. My pocket light is a 1xAA Fenix E12 -- 8/50/130 lumens out, very useful output range.

The light on my keyring (DR Photon Freedom) is purely a back-up with the intent of momentary use to get me to a real light. After years on my keyring I finally replaced the battery after it was accidentally turned on and left on for an unknown time (I think the dog did it) but even then the light was good enough for its job of getting to a real light.

For the purposes mentioned in the article, lighting an alley or the woods at night, I would prefer to use a AA light for the runtime and commonality with my other non-keyring lights.

Might be a great light, but I'll need to see it first hand.

Me too!! My wife just rolled her eyes.

I will have to try it out, even though I just got the one Hikermor talks about, and I do like it.

If the intent is to market the Titan to guys who already carry Surefire 123A lights (think LEO) then they may do well with sales. This may capture market-share of guys who want a Surefire light that fills the low-power void. This is a light they can drop in their pocket or keep on a keyring rather than the high power light they have on their weapon or duty belt.

For the general public who discovered Fenix, FourSevens, et al years ago, I'm not sure a high priced AAA light (regardless of beam shape) will be compelling. We'll see.

"0.59 inches in diameter"? That's driving me mad at all of the modern AAA flashlights manufacturers. The AAA cell is only 0.41". Add 0.07" (1+1 mm) for the more than supper-heavy-duty walls and you should never go over 0.5" - the Maglite Solitaire's diameter. Why everybody desperately adding so much "fat" to AAA in a simple flashlight?

(actually, I probably know the answer. Because in China they still have severe manufacturing quality problems and cannot drill the battery hole exactly centered to the body, so they are trying to reduce defective walls production increasing their thickness severely).

You're probably right that many "tactical" flashlights are a little overbuilt on purpose, but generally that is not a bad thing per se.

Aluminum tubing is not that strong to begin with, even with a quality alloy. A wall thickness of 1mm is pretty darn thin and will not stand up to any serious abuse. Double that thickness and you might come up with something exponentially more robust. Leave another milimeter or so to ensure proper tolerance/battery clearance and you are basically at somewhere around 0.59".

I used to EDC a Maglite Solitaire on a key chain back in the days before powerful LED lights and I was never really that impressed. Different strokes for different folks but on paper at least the new Surefire seems a pretty good all-around design, by no means too overbuilt for reasonable EDC.

Then again, I personally prefer a decent 1xAA light (I carry a Nitecore at the moment). It is a little bulkier but hardly so much as to be impractical as far as general EDC.

P.S.: Technically speaking I find it hard to believe that any remotely reputable production plant (in China or elsewhere) would have difficulty coming up with properly centered aluminum tubing.

I would expect that the flashlight body is assembled from semiproducts already finished to pretty tight specs, which is not difficult to obtain nowadays. Machine the side a little bit to remove some material for sleek design and weight reduction, add the head and cap assembly, anodize and that's pretty much it. Hardly rocket science and and a heckuva less complicated than something like an iPad ... or even an AK rifle, which the Chinese can churn out by the thousand.

Yep, the Fenix E12 I carry is a tad bigger in length and diameter, but with 2000 mah rather than 800 mah in a AAA battery.

I have been hunting for a slick AAA LED flashlight for years, and recently found one directly from China. It looks like E12, by the way, but proportionally scaled down (and like 10 times cheaper).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161347164023?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And that's exactly where I saw obviously non-concentric drilling (just for .5mm approximately, but clearly visible, I'll make a photo when I'll get home today).

The size matters, I'm EDCing my 0.5" Solitaire with LED drop-in upgrade for like 7 years already in the Leatherman Wave holster's side "pocket". And that's a tight and smooth fit already, which I like a lot. Its thin aluminum walls are well worn, but in perfectly functional shape so far:






I would prefer AA as well, however, they are even more overbuilt and often irregularly shaped (E12 is 0.75" vs 0.57" for fattest AA).

Frankly, what can you expect for $2.46? That light looks really cheap to me, about the kind of junk (for lack of a better word) sold at the dollar store.

If you are specifically looking for a slim 1xAAA light, there are no doubt many better choices available. Maybe something along those lines:

http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=27
http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=26#.VMqXcy48qao

Either would meet your expectations (0.49" dia.). Not terribly expensive but a whole lot more dependable than the no-name $0.99 wonder light from eBay.

In my experience, including equipping Boy Scouts, cheap flashlights may not even get you through one campout. You don't have to spend hundreds, but a good flashlight paid for once is much better than a dozen cheap ones that fail when you need them. It just seems that cheaper flashlights are prone to rapid failure. I have never had a failure yet in a Surefire or a Fenix. Some catastrophic breakage in very extreme circumstances has occurred.

To me the whole idea of an EDC single AAA cell light is something to use to put your key into the lock at night (everyday use), or in more serious circumstances to find your real light (preferably a good headlamp). I EDC a Fenix E01. It has worked well for me. It is plenty sturdy, compact, lightweight, and the price is right.

I frankly don't see that the advantages of this Titan are worth the price, even if it is cheap relative to other Surefire products.

My point exactly, ASKAR. I don't plan to scout a cave with it. Also the AAA/AA primary appeal is in the simplicity of battery replacement, especially if you have standardized all your equipment to take one type already.

IMHO, the modern AA/AAA LED flashlight is extremely simple device, I don't see a reason to pay $30 for almost the same China made aluminum flashlight, which I could get for just $1, but thank you for suggestions, Tom. I definitely want to check the T5s model. So sad they don't have similar AA offerings.

We are certainly fortunate to have such a wide variety of lights, with capabilities and prices to match. I carried a Solitaire for quite a time, and while it lit up dependably, it wasn't all that bright. But it was always handy, and thus very useful. What else really counts?

Cool beans.

I've had a SureFire U2 for close to 15 years now, IIRC, and it has never failed me. I splurged ($250 at the time?) on it back in the day, much to my DW's dismay but I have dropped it dozens of times on concrete, tile and asphalt and no problems.

I recently purchased a NiteCore SRT 5 (around $100) to replace carrying the U2 wanting a slightly smaller form factor for the pocket, the light itself has been good so far and I like the built-in Red LED. Also, it uses an 18650 (or 2 CR123s) which is generally against my keep things to one battery type guiding principle but sometimes we just want to try new items.

However, the clip kept popping off and the clip was finally lost within the first week of every-day use. I wrote to NiteCore asking for a replacement two months ago and no response.

So for the reliability of SureFire and another option for standard batteries I will certainly give them a long look when they become available.

Thanks for the head's up.

I wonder if the price premuim for this Surfire still includes it being capable of being a firearm light.

If they make one in AA or 123 (I am standardizing on those two batteries) I will have one quickly. I purchased a Zebralight H302W a few months ago (hikermor - Thanks for the recommendation). It has a very uniform 120 degree beam and has changed my primary light. I find it very useful not to have to aim the beam. Although it is a headlamp, I find that I usually use it as a bow tie. It gets the light source below my line of sight and does not bounce around as much (plus it is light and I almost forget it around my neck - something I never do around my head).

My 4Sevens ML (on my keychain) is still my most used light, but if it were available with a similar beam, I would prefer it.

The focused beam is still necessary for work beyond 20 feet or so, but at short range I think the uniform beam is much easier to use.

Respectfully,

Jerry

Increasingly it seems that their tactical lights are not weapons-rated. Looking inside them most of their newer ones don't have springs on both ends of the battery. I find this irksome at the price; my considerably cheaper JETBeams are able to run on weapons.

Probably not an issue with the new light since there are probably no mounts for lights that small (in diameter).

for a general comment... I started out with a Photon, then upgraded to an E01, later to an E05, and finally to a 2014 E05 with multi light settings... I wasn't sure if I would like the newer model as I really liked the original E05.... it is nice to have the additional horsepower as an option

I own six Maratac 1xAAA LED torches from Countycomm and have given at least six more away as gifts. Many of these are 4 or 5 years old and still work great. The version I own put out 80 lumens and cost $25. I just checked and saw Countycomm has an R3 version that puts out 138 lumens for $30. Of course I had to order 2.

It would be a hard stretch to imaging a significant improvement in the light pattern from Streamlight. Of course 300 lumens from the Titan Plus is impressive, but I can't think of why I'd need that much light out of that form factor. Except, perhaps, temporarily blind myself or my cat.

One thing I think you can't appreciate unless you've used it is the 1.5 lumen mode. It's plenty enough light to see where your walking on a moonless night. Although I normally also carry a Fenix LD12 or PD30, a Maratac is always in my pocket, usually with another one or three at close hand.

Totally agree with the value of small lumen levels. This is often overlooked in the current high level lumen arms race. Hiking at night, I prefer as little light as possible. With a full moon or somewhat less, one can get by with only occasional use of a low lumen light.

BTW, are there any beam shots of the miraculous lights that started this thread?

Looking forward to these new lights from SureFire, especially with the AAA form factor. Hopefully they can run on Eneloop rechargable NiMH batteries, too. Should be a great addition to the smaller kits or pocket carry.

I like having a very powerful high setting but I agree that for most stuff a few lumens (or less) will suffice. My personal preference is for two settings, no more- one "burner" of a HIGH setting and a very LOW one. Having a zillion settings and modes just makes it exasperating to get to any specific one of them.

i would like to try the 300 lumen model...

but at three times the cost of a multi-level ThruNite Ti "Xmas Model" that puts at 162 lumens and costs under $30 at amazon, i kinda doubt the surefire is worth the increased cost and much larger size.

I haven't tried the new Surefire lights yet, but I have tried the ThruNite lights. I was unimpressed with the quality and durability of the ThruNite lights. I just returned a T10 because the switch didn't work about 1/3 of the times. I have never had that issue with a Surefire.

Are the ThurNite lights worth $30, maybe but I think I would rather spend a bit more on a company that makes more reliable lights.

My EDC light has been a NiteCore Smart PD D10 that has held up remarkably well, I am hoping that the new Surefire Titan will be a good upgrade.

no argument from me, AR.

cheapie chinese lights aren't about reliability, they're about having low-cost multiples stashed everywhere, knowing they might not work when turned on (or to be used as inexpensive gifts, or as loaners, or used were one might lose it).

when i need to really trust one, i carry american-made customs like the 1xAAA Mako discussed here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/show...i-ve-ever-owned

surefires also fall under the "trustworthy" label.

I picked up a Fenix E05 keychain light the other day off of Amazon to replace my little Energizer LED "FOB" light that I have been using for the last couple of years.

I really like the Fenix so far, it's small and with three brightness settings looks like it's going to be a good little light that won't bulk down the keychain too much.

I prefer AA lights. I have a FourSevens Quark AA - currently sitting unused. And I have an Olight T15 - currently sitting unused.

The one I carry every day is a cheaper light from China. I like it better. An XTAR, model WK41 (single AA-sized cell model). http://www.xtarlight.com/05-chanpin/p-001-1.asp?styleid=259

I don't like the two-handed operation of the Quark and Olight. You have to twist the head to change modes. The Quark cycles through two different sets of modes via pushbutton, the particular set of modes you cycle through being dependent on if the flashlight head is tight or loose. The Olight turns on/off with a pushbutton, but cycles through modes by twisting the head loose then tight again. I do not like the way they cycle through modes, where you always end up having to go through the annoying and useless flashing modes as part of the cycle.

The XTAR has a side pushbutton for on/off and it remembers your previous mode. A single click cycles between four brightness levels without traversing the annoying flashing modes. The lowest brightness is quite low, great for a "get up in the middle of the night" light or for when you really really want to make your battery last a long time. With 14500 LiIon rechargeables the brightness range is 3-300 lumens (Chineses lumens, that is) and 3-150 Chinese lumens with alkalines. To turn the XTAR off confuses many people I hand it to. It's a "push and hold to turn off" feature. People aren't expecting that on a flashlight, and generally hand it back to me still lit saying "how do you turn this thing off?" The XTAR still does have all those annoying flashing modes if you really want them - you double-click the switch to get there. So it's a totally one-handed light. Single click on, single click to cycle through modes, click-and-hold to turn off. Double-click to access the seldom used flashy modes. There is no momentary mode like some lights have by halfway depressing the switch. If momentary is important to you, don't buy the XTAR (I don't know if all of their models lack momentary, but my WK41 lacks it). Additionally, the switch will glow red when your battery is getting low, and start flashing red when it's almost dead. Very handy to know when to recharge. It takes alkalines (1.5v), NiMH (1.2v), lithium primary (1.5v or 3v) or rechargeable lithium (3.7v).

Despite being a less expensive and made in China light, it is very solidly made and I carry the XTAR in preference to the FourSeven and Olight.

I looked up that XTAR WK41,I like it. Might pick that one up here in the next couple of weeks.

While I normally EDC a AAA Fenix, I like Eagletac too. The D25A goes 1.3 hours at 200 lumens and 150+ on moonlite mode with useful mid ranges in between. All on one AA. If you run a 14500 battery, you get a blazing 900 lumens out of that little guy.

I just ordered one to upgrade my EDC because I like the flexibility and the capability for long run times. 20 hours on the 20 lumen low mode is pretty good. I have a D25C that has been modded. Moonlight mode is fine to get around in the house in the dark. The turbo mode screams out over 1,200 lumens with a RCR123.