Hi,

After wrestling with a 12-inch diameter pine stump yesterday that I thought was rotten, I came to two conclusions:

-The stump, though it appeares to be rotten, is as hard as a rock once you get past the bark.
-I really need a good axe for this job, not a sledgehammer.

So, should I get as large an axe as I can safely handle, or is there an advantage to something smaller? I have similar stumps to remove on this backyard landscaping project, as well as smaller stumps and some downed trees that need limbing. The area is not really accessible by a stump grinder, nor do I want to pay the $120 daily rental fee.

Also, what methods do you all use to get rid of stumps; dynamite, saltpeter, an axe and digging bar? help me look like a pro today instead of the foolish amateur I looked like yesterday! Thanks.

In our teenage years, a friend and I used black powder to blow a stump in his backyard. We had been digging for hours, and decided to use a more, umm, "expedient" method of removal. We decided that about a pound of FFG ought to do the trick, and it did, to the effect of a stump going about 20 feet higher than the roof of his parents 2 story home.
WE thought it was really neat, if loud. His parents, neighbors, and the local police dept did not agree with us, except the loud part. Many lectures ensued <img src="images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
So, lesson learned, don't use black powder to blow stumps.
Rob, I think there is a bacterial based product that causes the stumps to rot very rapidly. Ace Hardware carried it before, someone may have it in your area.

Rob--

JoeBob's right about a "stump rotter" solution. Check with a good local hardware store. Also, there'll be less for it to do if you cut the stump off as close to flush with the ground as possible. Be especially careful if you do this with a chainsaw.

As an additonal aid to decomposition (or maybe it's just structural weakening), use the tip of a chainsaw bar to cut groves & cross-groves in whatever's left exposed. If you're very careful, you can actually get below ground level this way. You can then use an axe, or even a hatchet to chop out much of the remainder.

We lost our apple tree last May in the tornado, as did our neighbor (the trees were about 20 ft apart). After I cut ours up, I worked on the stump in the manner I described (though I didn't get a chemical agent).

Several weeks later, after the neighbor removed his tree, my wife commented that I needed to go out & do something about the stump I'd left on our apple tree--it really looked bad, and that I needed to be sure that heavy clump of grass about 20 feet this side of it was cut up, as well.

We walked over to it, where I pointed out that the "clump of grass" was all that was left of my stump; the one she was complaining about was that of my neighbor! <img src="images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Also, I'd recommend against using black powder, or any other explosive, too. My wife's granddaddy used to "blast" ground hogs by pouring a gallon or so of gasoline down the hole, & throwing in a match. She said the resulting explosions shook the house, & the fireballs were sometimes spectacular.

Be careful, whatever tools you use.

David

go for the full size axe's. If you miss the stump, it will go for the ground. If you got a smaller axe it might go for you legs ( or worse <img src="images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> ). i wouldn't chouse smaller axe's for your backyard projects. You don't have to drag it 20 miles and stuff, so go for safety and power, the big one's !

Thanks for the cautions against explosive removal. This would be a fun exercise if done from a distance in a remote field! I have some pressure-treated timbers sitting on the lawn waiting to be spiked in, so my need for removal of some of these stumps is sooner rather than later. I'll probably be buying an axe and digging bar today.

As a tree grows, it sometimes picks up rocks near its base. For this reason, if you use a chain saw, buy your own with a bar long enough for you to use comfortably (even if it does not extend the full diameter of the stump). Buy extra chains and a chain sharpening tool with extra files or grinder wheels. Invest in, rent or borrow all the safety protection you can get your hands on (Hard hat, full face shield, safety glasses (redundency), shin and foot guards, leather golves, and whatever else the professionals may think you need for the job.

Something most people do not know about chains is that "safety or anti-kickback" saw chains have a bumper built in front of the each cutting tooth that prevents the chain from grabbing too much wood when it cuts. Professional saw chains do not have this bumper, but depend on the built-in bumper on each tooth. When they come packaged the built in bumper has a slightly lower height than the cutting tooth. Every time you do extensive (not the occasional touch-up sharpening as you work.) sharpening of the teeth, you have to file down the bumper on each tooth so that the clearance between bumper and tooth on the entire chain is the same. They have a step measuring device for this purpose which you should buy with the sharpening equipment. How deep a step you use depends on the power of the saw and your ability to control the saw as it cuts. Deeper clearance requires more power from you and the saw. The clearance I use on my Homelite Super Easy with a 16" bar is 25 thousands and I get a nice even shaving so long as the blade stays sharp. If you start making sawdust, it is time to resharpen the blade. If you hit something that dings even one tooth, it is time to stop, sharpen, and reset the bumper height of all the teeth. You should recheck the bumper height clearance every 4 to 5 "touch-up" resharpenings and reset as necessary.

When cutting wood, the only speeds while starting, continuing, or ending the cut is full speed or chain rotation off. First off, place yourself in a solid control position that you can control your power from. Do not try to start a cut with a slow speed, but instead control the pressure you put on the piece as you go in. If the chain binds, let go of the throttle immediately or you will burn out the clutch trying to "horse" it through. Use a wood wedge to clear the bind, back off a little, go full speed and continue the cut.

I go along with the cross-hatching of what is left, except when I get as far down into the stump as I can, I pour gasoline in the slots and set it on fire. Several fire sessions, and the stump will disappear faster than just useing tree rotting enzymes.

I personally do not like "safety or anti-kickback" chains as they slow down the amount the teeth can cut and therefore the speed at which you can cut. On the other hand, I fell quite comfortable using chain saws and I am such a safety freak in terms of what I put on when useing one. If you are new to chain saws, make your own decisions or hire someone who can do it better.

Be safe first, and good luck will follow!

Bountyhunter

Hi Rob,

Do yourself a favor and take the lazy man's approach. Buy a large bag of charcoal and lighter fluid, build a bed of coals like you would for a BBQ, but instead of in the grill, build it on top of the stump. Start this little project in the early evening so you've got time to keep an eye on it, then sit back and watch the stump disappear into a hole in the ground. This method sure beats the axe/maul/chainsaw method, and it's a lot easier on the back. You might have to do this more than once for larger stumps, but it's still a lot less strain on the body. Have fun around the "campfire" <img src="images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Can Someone Please Fill me in on the Chain Saw Kickback Phenonomon!? Back in the 70s or 80s, -I Recall once Reading an Article in either Popular Science / Mechanics, or Mechanix Illustrated, about Chainsaw Kickback! It's Important and Something I'd Like to Know! The Article and Issue has Long Been Lost, and Most of it's Details and Gist Escape me! It's been somewhat Nagging and Gnawing at me ever Since! I Do Have a Pretty Good Idea and Guess of it! But I Wouldn't Want to Trust my Fortunes on Such a Foggy Recollection and Guess! Please, the Basics and Details!, Someone. Before one of these Days I Start Using a Chainsaw! Again, If Someone Knows, Fill me in somewhat on Chainsaw Kickback! [color:"black"] [/color] [email]bountyhunter[/email]

Scott, here is a partial answer to your question. http://www.oregonchain.com/kickback.htm Chain saw manufacturers have a great deal of information on how to avoid kickback in the instruction manual. If you buy a chain saw go for quality not for price, the better saws have vibration isolation systems and inertia blade brakes as well as low kickback chains and bars. And i can tell you from experience that the inertia brake on Sthil chain saws work very well.

Used to sell the stuff to rot out tree stumps. The instructions state that large holes have to be drilled into the stump, stump rot poured on, covered with plastic for many months, then soaked with kero and burned. Several soaking and burns may be required to finish removing the stump. Personally i would go for cutting it off close and letting it rot away at it's own pace.

Thank You for the Link. This is Pretty Complete for my General Purposes. I Think it Covers Everything that Old Popular Mechanics Etc. Article Covered, and Probably some More. Thanks Again.

(BTW, I am Not Going to be Operating a Chainsaw anytime soon, and Will Make Sure I'm Familiar / Know What I'm Doing, -Before Doing so!) [color:"black"] [/color] [email]RayW[/email]