The Fedex truck just dropped my last toy, a 19" Wetteling hunting axe. It cost an arm and a leg, but worth every penny. I knew they were good, but not this good. Having felled hundred of acres of eucalyptus with my crews, I've purchased, sharpened and used dozens of axes and I've never seen a sharper one, it cuts paper like a Mora knife! Now for the field trials (once the temperature goes down a bit!).

good post,thanks.and an example of why you should buy real gear.

You're absolutely right Canoedogs. I learned it the hard way. I've bought 4 or 5 useless backpacks! I guess that things are not quite what they look in the catalogue.

That brings up a good question ...

When I look at (or buy) some brands of what I THINK are a good axes - such as a Snow & Nealley or an Estwing - those axes don't come sharpened to nearly the degree of the Granfors Bruks or Wetterlings axes.

I mean those Swedish axes really do come knife-sharp. So sharp that while looking at one of the Granfors Bruks axes in a local store the blade accidentally sliced through the leather sheath (ooops ... shhhh!!! ... I wasn't buying at that time).

Is that because they can't be made as sharp? I have both S&N and Estwing, am I've sharpened mine, but neither are knife sharp. Maybe because I'm not that good at sharpening axes.

Is that because of some industry standard outside of Sweden?

Is that because they don't want to ship them quite so sharp? For safety reasons?

Is that because the axe industry in the U.S. really feels they shouldn't be so sharp?

I just don't get it.

I see your point. I recently bought a very small hatchet made in the U.S.A. by Kaughan. The edge is so blunt that you feel as if they thought you were an idiot that should be kept away from sharp things! I've been trying to give it an edge for three days now, and there's a hint of an edge, but still useless as a hatchet. I don't get it, you are far more likely to cut yourself while sharpening the bloody thing, than while using it!

I have a small Wetterlings and it is scarey sharp, suitable for skinning big game. I also have a Collins hatchet that has a very blunt grind, probably only good for splitting shakes. Maybe the difference is hand hammer forging (Wetterlings, Granfors) vs drop forging. I'm not a metallurgist, but there seems to be a huge difference in the structure of the steel. Congrats GauchoViejo, you made a wise choice and you will love your new hatchet.

Congratulations on the axe. I'm sure it will serve you well. They have a fine reputation as well adapted tools. Well worth the price for a person who does a lot of axe work.

Not to pick on this particular case, and certainly have nothing against GauchoViejo or any others, but something bothers me in reviews of knives and other edged tools. Specifically I'm always taken aback by recommendations of edged tools when people use 'sharpness' as a decisive trait.

Many tools come 'sharp' but even the most expensive usually need dressing and honing to get the most from them. Generally, the closer a tool comes to honed to perfection the more of a premium you pay for the privilege. Even as it is cheap for a manufacturer to get a decent edge. That limits the amount of time a users needs to invest in honing the edges first thing out of the box. Nobody would buy a straight razor and expect to use it without stropping the edge.

Complimenting a tool because it comes sharp suggests that if it wasn't sharp enough it might be a problem. As if sharpening wasn't a skill every user shouldn't master. Sharpening, beyond setting the bevel angle and establishing a rough edge, is not traditionally a manufacturers concern. The concept is relatively new.

Then again, as with all things, the modern trend is to make tools essentially disposable. The emphasis is on the commercial gain, buying and re-buying a disposable product instead of learning a skill. Once they are dull you toss it out and buy another, like razorblades. Which is incongruent with a relatively expensive tool, like a Wetteling axe, that might last a lifetime.

It is good that it comes sharper than duller as it saves effort. But sharpness is not an immutable trait of the tool because it will dull in use and can be expected to be dulled and resharpened many times in its lifetime. Generally the inherent traits are more like the balance expressed in the geometry and the design, or the edge holding capacity and toughness of the steel. These stay essentially the same throughout the productive life of the tool.

GauchoViejo has a justified right to be proud of his recent purchase. It is a fine tool. It is good it came sharp, it saves him extra work, but the sharpness of it as a tool rests with him and the sharpness of his skills at sharpening. With use the axe will dull. With use his skills at sharpening will only get sharper.

I have a Wetterlings axe. Luckily mine was a gift as the cost is quite high for this product of which I have a couple of axes that can do the same work for a far less price.

That being said, as Art mentioned, sharpening an axe or hatchet is learned process and any can be brought to a good sharp edge. I personally like a good sharp edge, but not as sharp as the factory edge which to me is more for the marketing of the product and not always a desired trait in real world use.

Regardless, the OP will be very happy with his new axe and with care and attention, the axe will easily last a couple of lifetimes.

Another good brand that is mass produced (so it is less expensive) but still of very good quality is the Iltis Oxehead brand felling axes.
They have very high quality steel and great temper.
I would not call them inexpensive, but they are still within reason.
They are a bit fine bladed for splitting

Another good brand that is mass produced,so it is less expensive but still of very good quality, is the Iltis Oxehead brand felling axes.
They have very high quality steel and great temper.
I would not call them inexpensive, but they are still within reason.
They are a bit fine bladed for splitting, but excellent for felling and such work.
Mine has a cruiser length handle.