For years I have carried a small wire survival saw in my mini PSK in the belief that it actually had a good purpose. On a grouse hunt a summer ago I decided, as I often do, to spend the night in some sort of improvised shelter rather than taking the easy way out and grabbing the tent out of the truck. I wanted to use ONLY what I carry in my mini PSK in order to prove to myself that I was indeed carrying the best items possible for that purpose, should the actual need arise. I always carry a mini PSK that never, ever leaves my possession and a larger, better equipped one in my backpack. My mini PSK holds all the items I would absolutely need in a bad situ, just in case I may become separated from my pack(like screaming like a little girl while running from clouds of angry bees) And this is where I had my wire saw. As silly as this sounds, I sometimes carry a second mini PSK, identical to the first just for the purpose of practicing with the contents, thus keeping one intact for a real emergency. I decided on a basic debris hut, as they are generally easier to make. It was a nice cool sunny day and I was in a great mood, having a couple of nice birds in my pack. That was about to change however. I began by cutting bows for a dry bed. The first few cuts with the wire saw were great, dropping branches with ease. The saw began to bind after a short time, and more effort was needed to do the job. I realized that simply bending the branch and chopping it with my folder was way faster, so I finished my dry bed that way instead. Still unruffled I began the task of dropping a tree for my hut. Before I even cut through the bark of the tree one of the loops broke. No big deal, it happens I thought. I just tied a small thumb knot in the wire and passed a stick through the center and kept sawing. About a minute later the second loop breaks, this time I end up cutting my finger on the dammed saw. Now I can feel the anger starting to rise. I tied a second knot, used a second stick and tried again. By now the saw is really dull and I am about half way through. I am moving around the tree with my cuts trying to prevent the saw from binding in the cut. Anger is turning to Frustration at this point because this tree is giving me more trouble that originally anticipated. I look at my backpack (which I refuse to open) at the Gerber exchange a blade folding saw strapped to the outside and thank God my friends are not here to see me bleeding and fighting with this stupid tree. Still not ready to admit defeat I take the shiny new saw out of my emergency PSK and try again, hoping that the first saw was built on a Friday and was a onetime deal. The new saw cuts fine for a bit and then binds hopelessly about 9/10ths of the way home. Cursing like a drunken sailor at this point I kick and smash the tree until it breaks and falls over. After putting on a band-aid and using my knife to finish cutting sticks to pile over the shelter, not to mention throwing that saw as far as I could into the woods. I finally managed to finish my shelter.

I know there are a lot of experienced people on this forum who may have similar experiences. What I would like to know is if anyone else has had as much trouble with one of these wire saws? Maybe I am just an idiot, who knows? I have never carried one since then, as I have found that I can do just as good a job with my bare hands and my trusty knife.
All comments welcome.

I had a couple of those once. The first one performed pretty much exactly as you described, right before snapping in the center. The second one was in the trash the following morning. It seems like a great idea, and there may be some quality wire saws out there, but I've never run across one.

If anyone here can recommend a quality saw, I'd love to hear about it - the size and weight can't be beat.

Hmmm...I remember first hearing about these things being in survival kits and thinking "what a neat idea, I gotta get one for mine". When at last I finally had one in my hand, and opened it up, I felt that it may have been overated as it certainly seemed like a minimal use type tool.

Fast forward years later and I've not had much reason to upgrade my original thoughts about it. Other postings at ETS and other venues have pretty much mirrored your type of experiences and my original thoughts.

At this time, I would not consider it (at least the few that I've actually touched) as a mass production cutting tool, but more a minimal use special tool. Several still remain in my kits, but I take the time to explain to others using the kits (also with a small note in the kit which doubles as fire tinder). It would be nice to believe that there are better models out there, but I've not touched one as yet.

Observations:
Keeping the saw taut with minimal bending and binding seem to be ther favored working methods, many folks reporting that they use a small piece of wood bent in the middle to hold the saw rings on the end, similar to other regular brush saws.

YMMV

Others may have had better experiences and I'd certainly like to hear where a better wire saw can be obtained.

Regards,
Comanche7

As for quality, I have been told by friends that ultimate survivals Saber saw is second to none. It's just way too big for a PSK unfortunately. I always carry a Gerber exchange -a -blade folding saw which is outstanding for my sawing needs (the bone blade is what I tend up using most for hunting) and usually does what an axe can do at a fraction of the weight. It is impractical to always have it on my belt however, especially when in uniform.

The Pocket Chainsaws has worked for me. Its bigger, about the size of a tin of snuff but I haven't had a problem with it yet.

The wire saws tend to last a little longer if you stick to cutting dead/dry wood.

I have had two of the wire saws, after the first one snapped in the middle I tried the second with the same reults. Also the dirctions say they are a good snare they lied.

The best ones are available here at
http://www.bestglide.com/Wire_Saw_Info.html

The wire saw is limited to what it can achieve compared to a Bacho Laplander or even the saw blade on a Leatherman tool but considering its size and weight it could make all the diffference in certain situations. It is a SERE tool and it has other uses than just cutting tree branches which are not generally mentioned.

The wire saw was a british creation for escape. The wire obviously could be secreted in a uniform seam. It was intended to saw through seasoned wood silently; barrack floors, fences and railroad boxcars. There are only two wire saws worthy of consideration; the BCB british unit and the US service issued saw. The BCB unit is the most readily available. The military unit has two very large turnbuckle handles and a spare wire. Any and all else is junk. Suggestions of using the wire saw as a snare loop are fallacious, the wire will not close properly. Possible uses for the wire saw in the wild; disarticulating a game animal, tieing two lengths of paracord with one wieghted throw line to slowly cut down a out of reach branch holding food, scaling fish,scoring surfaces to catch sparks or to break.

They are handy for cutting off arm and leg bones, however. When I worked for a vet, he would go through all the soft tissue with a scalpel, tie off all the veins and arteries, and then cut the bone with a wire saw.

THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION!

They have their uses, but the uses are pretty specific. Anything involving sap or pitch isn't it.

Sue

I have a wire saw made to use in a hacksaw frame. I added a couple
of split rings to it for finger or stick handle loops. It is not
for soft wood but rather metals, plastics etc. I have cut through
padlocks and chains with it before. Figure it would be good for
emergency exits from Forest Service gates that are chained closed.
I have used it to repair tire chains too.

The pocket saw which is essentially a chain saw chain with two pull handles on either end is a great invention. I forget the brand but there are a few companies making them...they're easy to DIY too. If long enough you can get around a fair size tree and really chew through smaller pieces of wood. Not as efficient as a bow saw though. You really have to be in shape to get much done with one.

Hi,

I have some experience with wire saws. The cheap ones with what look like electrical connectors on the ends are very poor quality and hardly work at all before they break (Coghlins brand). The best I have used so far are the 8 strand Commando type saws (Coghlins also sells these), they work better with wrist loops or with fist length T-sticks instead of the finger rings. Sap and binding are a big problem with green trees.

About a month ago I used a Commando wire saw to cut a 16" long, 2" diameter piece of maple to use as a handhold for dragging a deer out along a marsh. The saw did not want to cooperate and bound in the green wood when I was about 1/2 way through, my son had to grab the stem of the tree and bend it over to allow me to finish the cut. The next morning I had to drag a second deer out of the same location, this time I cut a similar stick with my Leatherman Wave saw with no trouble. The "Pocket Chainsaw" is a much superior product in a flexible saw, but not near as compact.

If I suspect I will need to saw something and want a fairly compact, efficent saw I normally bring my Bahco Laplander, it is a quality saw tool.

I EDC's a SAK with a saw for years and it is amazing what that little saw can cut, this is why I prefer the SAK Farmer over the Soldier (nothing personal C_S).

Mike

For a small saw I use the one in my leatherman charge or Victorinox Trekker. For a large saw I've got a Sawvivor. Never had a problem with any of them.

I haven't tried the British one yet, so it might be the exception, but I think I've tried everything else. I've concluded they come in two varieties- sucks, and really sucks.

The manual chainsaw is good, I've played with one. I have a folding pruning saw- blade is about 10" long, and I've taken 6" material with it. It isn't always happy with oak or some maples, but if you stick to the little stuff you're good. But what I usually have on me is the saw of a SAK or my Leatherman, and for most things I've done in terms of shelter building they are fine.

If you want something actually useful (for camping, etc) get a wyoming saw. Pretty light (18 oz) but infinitely better/safer than gerber exchange a blade, etc. It is also easily collapsible. I am thinking about playing with some carbon fiber to make a lighter version (hehehe...)

cabelas

I second the Wyoming saw, I have never used one on wood but it does a good job on game with the meat/bone saw blade. I have the larger version and you are also able to pack some survival gear into the cordura belt pouch.

Mike

If by DIY you mean make one from a chainsaw chain, remember that a chainsaw runs in one direction and all the teeth are sharpened to cut in only one direction. The Pocket Chainsaw is designed with bi-directional teeth. That doesn't mean that a Stihl or Husky (et al) chainsaw chain couldn't be resharpened to cut both directions, but I'm not sure how that would be done -- don't have one in front of me.

Perhaps in some places all the dead wood is under nine feet of snow, but personally, I never felt much use for ANY saw.

My area of operations seems to have plenty of "dead and down" wood. Live boughs can be cut quickly bending them down and a applying a chop or two with a good fixed blade knife, as the OP noted.

Sawing wood can use a lot of energy that may be better off conserved in a survival situation.

I think that it kinda depends on what you want to do with the wood. Firewood can be snapped, broken with a big rock (or foot), left long and one end shoved in the fire as needed, etc. "Construction," on the other hand, could require a more precise division of the wood. And even if you have an axe, a GOOD saw usually requires less effort than an axe, and is much quieter to boot (which might be a concern in some situations)...

I would never put myself in a situation where I expect there to be wood just laying around. I always presume that I could have to take down some perfectly good trees...especially when it's winter. You need A LOT of wood to keep a fire going for days.

That's kinda my point, if you have to cut it all you're going to be pretty bushed. But in Canada in winter perhaps that's your only choice.


What are you planning to build? I can't think of many things I'd want to build that require a precise length. Although my imagination doesn't go much beyond a brush shelter. I've built many of them and never needed a saw and probably seldom even broken anything to length.

I'm not trying to be combative here, just trying to figure out what I'm missing and if I DO need a saw I better start carrying one!

I have used just the saw in my Leatherman (a pretty damned good saw, even if a little short for some things) sooo many times, yet right now I can not come up with one good example. Maybe to make a bow/drill/board for trying to start a fire. Cutting a splint for a broken arm/leg/rifle stock. Making a crutch to help someone with a bumb leg. Too early for my higher brain functions (if there are any) to kick in...

Like I had mentioned before, I have a really good saw in my Gerber exchange a blade that has served me well in any endeavour, so far at least. I use it primarily in field dressing game and cutting wood for a fire. I know I can rely on it to make any kind of shelter in an emergency, and replacement blades are cheap. I had wanted to find a decent wire saw to include in my PSK for those times when I cannot carry my folding saw. After some fine comments from the crew here I see that a good wire saw probably doesn't exist. I have come to be able to do almost anything with my knife and a good wood club in terms of cutting wood so I guess the wire saw is no longer an issue.

Just out of curiosity, some of you have said that a Wyoming saw is better and safer than a Gerber exchange-a-blade. I am not going to argue with anyone, as I am sure you have your reasons for saying this, but I would like to know why.

Hey Canadian_Soldier,

I have never tried a Gerber Exchange-a-Blade saw can you give me the specs, like/dislikes on it, maybe I need to try one?

Thanks

Mike

i have used wire saws, but stop using them. Now instead i have a manual chainsaw in mine PSK tin. The chainsaw works much beter, but for normal tasks, i prefer mine folding saw.

Firstly, its too flexible. If you are cutting something that is really tough, cold, sticky, etc and the blade is binding now and again, the saw is going to bend as you attempt to cut (increases risk of breakage and risk of slipping of your hand off the handle and into the blade). Also, the physics of the handle being along the same axis as the blade on folding saws means that you need a deathgrip on the thing to avoid slipping your hand forward onto the blade (if the blade is covered in any sort of fluid like sweat, blood from killed game, etc, and it binds on something while you are vigorously cutting, you could slip forward).

The wyoming saw, on the other hand, offers you much better push/pull leverage (with the handle almost perpendicular to the blade), Less chance of blade movement/flex (blade attached to frame which pulls the saw blade forward and back while the gerber saw only pulls the blade back and relies on the stiffness in the blade to push forward without bending off course), and your hand position within the saw assures you cant run your hand into the blade. Lastly, I like that you have the option to buy a hacksaw blade for the wyoming, and that the blades are less expensive.

I have never had any complaints with the exception that the fine bone cutting blade can become clogged and needs frequent tapping or wiping to clean the teeth when using it to cut heavy bone. It cuts plastic and light sheet metal in a fairly adequate manner as well. The course blade cuts wood very well, but is a little flimsy and needs to be really held strait in the cut to prevent pinching. Overall, it is about 15 inches give or take when opened. The cloth case has a slot to carry a second blade, which cost about 5 bucks to replace. The saw itself has rubber panels on the handle made from the same material as used on the handle of the Gerber Gator knives(very tacky, especially when wet) This saw has yet to disappoint me in any way, although it depends on what you need a saw for while in the woods in the first place. If I am not playing "silly bugger" in the field with the Army then I am in the field trying to stock my freezer with fresh meat. Nothing rips through the pelvic bone of a Moose faster than a good saw. This saw is also designed for one hand use which for me is a must, as I can hold innards out of the way with one hand while I cut. I use it a lot to trim overhead branches for placing tree stands as well, and being able to hold a heavy branch with one hand as you cut lessens your chances of dropping it on yourself. For a hunter I love this saw. If you are just a hiker you may have no use for it at all. Lastly, it cost me about 20 bucks as opposed to 60 bucks for some models which look almost identical. I actually got 3 of these for the same price as the more expensive Browning folding saw. Now I have one in my BOB, one in My hunting bag, and one in my truck at all times.

I use the Gerber Gator EAB folding saw and find it to be excellent for sawing small trees, driftwood, etc. A bow saw is more efficient but the EAB doesn't need to be assembled to use.

I've been tempted to carry a bow saw blade wrapped in cardboard for emergency use. Some wire and a springy sapling and you can make your own bow saw.

i did not take the time to read all the feedback except the
the one from Chris which hit the nail on the head. it's
an example of military spin-offs that are useless outside
the narrow "first" use. somebody,somewhere found or had see
this British escape saw and made a cheap version to sell to
survivalists.now these things pop up in every kit and are
what you might call a "negative" survival item..you think
you have something that will help and it only hinders.
i had one of these saws back in the early 60's whne i was
in the scouts..i used it once to try and cut a small branch
to cook a hot dog..halfway thru a finger size stick i
could see it was useless and got a real saw.

Has anyone had a chance to use the larger version of the Gerber collapsible bow saw? I haven't had a chance to try the saw but one of the blades is similar in appearance to one that one.

I've see only one that I thought would work. It was marketed by the Boy Scouts in the late 70's/early 80's. Construction was from a single strand of much thicker wire with sharp teeth formed on it. It would still gum up in green wood but cut great until it did. The teeth were sharp enough that it really needed a pouch out of leather or something similar.

Actually I have A Wyoming style saw made by Gerber.(the one that breaks down into pieces) and this saw also comes with fine and course blades. Its a great saw as well, but way too bulky for a belt or even my backpack as the sheath is quite long. I could carry the parts loose but that is more trouble than it is worth. The folding type suits my needs in the field a lot better. Usually I keep the bigger saw home in my garage as it is absolutely wonderful for butchering.

during my day hikes i carry a gerber exchange-a-blade. hunting / dismemberment is not in my anticipated daily hikes, so i'm ok with just the coarse blade. it has helped to make many a trail more civilized. also carry a leatherman wave.

bsmith

You have NO idea how much fun you are missing! LOL

Saws are usefull not so much for precision as SAFETY. I own and use an axe. Please review Dougs comments on the things in a survival situation.Then Buy Mors Kochanski's excellent BUSHCRAFT book and get religon. The wire saw can have a use beyond the space in a Altoid tin. if you don't find that use go with something else. I have the Pocket Chainsaw in my larger pocket kit. When I go up in a sailplane it's a perfect compromise.I haev enough trouble bending my long legs into the cockpit. I am not about to lug a 28"- 4 lb axe or bowsaw in there too.

I hunt with the Eberlestock J104 back pack which has the large zip open meat compartment. The pack is designed to go in light and come out heavy, if you are successful of course. Even a small axe gets very heavy with a 100lb quarter of meat in your pack. In my line of work the only way I could carry an axe would be if it was issued to me(usually the absolute cheapest model available) Anything visible strapped to my rucksack has to be authorised kit, so I can at least hide my folding saw in a cargo pouch. So far, for me at least, I have found that my saw can do most of what an axe can do(withen reason) in a much lighter and easier to carry unit. Everyone has a different need I suppose.

Les Stroud in his first season of survivorman broke a wire saw in one episode and you quickly see his opinion of the frustrating little thing. It made a big impression on me. I went through all of my kits, trashed the wire saw and replaced them with the "chainsaw" variety. I always assumed I just wasn't using it "properly" and it turns out I was fine and it was junk.

I'm not a big fan of wire saws but there's something that isn't taken into consideration:

The smaller the branch/tree/wood/ you are cutting, the smaller the radius is which the wire needs to wrap around. This makes the wire bend A LOT more each stroke and as anybody who's used a paper clip for it's non-intended purpose knows, this weakens the wire/metal.

As I recall, Les Stroud was trying to cut something far less thick than wrist size...I could be mistaken however.

Either way, there are quality version of these saws to be had made from materials which can handle the stress (more than the cheapos most of us are familiar with anyhow)...but I'm still not a fan.

Yea, the size on the gerber is quite attractive, though, I have no issue slipping the wyoming's 12inch sheath into my backpack. In terms of convenience its no contest (gerber), but i find the wyoming is nicer/safer once you have it set up. Different strokes for different folks

I'd like to try this saw out:

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templa...66200&nyr=1

Hey, This is actually my Gerber Saw I was refering to in the last post with Alex_Berg.

Do you remember where you got yours?

I haven't started looking yet but Cabela's is the only time I've seen that particular saw.

I bought mine at good old Wholesale sports down off the Yellowhead trail for fairly cheap(God I love that store !!!)

The chainsaw blade is toothed like the pocket chainsaw from what I can tell from Doug's review of the pocket chainsaw.

I haven't been there in a while but it's one of my favorite stores right up there with Mountain Equipment Coop.

If you ever are there and see someone in uniform,(most likely at the gun counter) then say hi.

Hmmm.... Never tried to move a tree that was blown down in the road, have you?

Ritter's Pocket Saw review

I've had one of these in my hunting pack for quite a while. I can take down lodgepoles in about 1/3 the time with these than I can with any axe or hatchet, using the latter to trim branches etc instead.

A pocket saw, properly used, is more ergonomic and less strenous/exerting than swinging an axe on any sort of cross grain cutting. Axes work good on splitting grain, which you get at branch junctions and splitting rounds. A good sharp axe will chip cross grain, but not as efficiently as the chain saw does.

BTW, you could always make your own from a motorized chainsaw chain, just pop the links and alternate the cutting teeth in opposite directions. I think that is how the Saber chain saw is done anyways.

My only complaint with the pocket saw was when I was learning how to use it and would roll a loop into the chain and have it bind. I quickly learned how to avoid that mistake.

+ 1 on the pocket chain saw..