This is my first post, but I've been lurking for over a week, going back through the threads (back to page 84, so far).

I have never seen such a wonderful collection of useful information online!

I have been having fun putting my Altoids tin together, & adding to my existing BOB. One thing I like to have is an Exacto blade or two, but I find them hard to use without a handle. So, I made handles for several blades, & they work great. They're small, thin, lightweight, cheap & permanently attached to the blade. When it's dull, toss the whole thing.

If anyone is interested, you will need one 2-oz pkg of polymer clay from a craft shop (about $3) -- any brand & color will do. This one package will be enough for at least 50 blades handles.

Cut off a piece of clay approx. 1/4x1/4x1/2 or 5/8". Work it a bit to soften. Lay on a piece of copier or typing paper & roll it out to the shape of a worm, about 1" long x 1/4" thick. Using your Exacto blade, cut a 1/2" deep slot down the center of one end. Insert the back end of the blade into the slot & press the clay slightly against the blade, just to hold in place.

Lay it down on the paper so the flat plane of the blade is parallel to the paper. Roll over the clay gently with a drinking glass (glass) until the handle is just over 1/16" thick & about 1.5" long.

Leave the blade & handle on the paper, lay on a cookie sheet, & bake in the oven at the temperature recommended on the package (varies with brand) for about 5 minutes. Remove from oven, let cool completely before handling.

This is so simple that you can tailor the next handles to your own taste in thickness, length, etc.

Primo clay is stiffer than Sculpey brand. This clay is non-toxic unless you overheat the oven. No, the paper won't burn at these low temps.

Greetings Susan and welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the great info on polymer clay. I imagine this stuff could be used for several things.

I have a few questions about the stuff if you don't mind answering.
Does it give off any kind of smell during the baking or after it has cooled?
Will the polymor stand up to punishment in an emergency/survival situation?
Do you know of any other clay-like substances that don't require baking that can be used in the same ways? Something that fits that discription could be sculpted during the emergency/survival situation to meet multiple needs as they arise.

Well, hope you enjoy your time here with us. Hope you stay for a while. Now I'm off to think of the other cool things that can be made with this stuff.

Thanks again.
Wayneburg

Welcome Susan!
I like the idea... I've always imagined finding a twig of some sort as a handle, or just perservering with the blade without a handle.... do you know how the clay stands up to humid conditions/ getting dunked in water?

As for clay type products that don't need baking, there is a substance used by modellers called 'green stuff' which is bought as a strip of yellow and blue 'stuff'. When the two are mixed together they become green (hence the name), and are used to model detail on to metal and plastic minitures. The stuff sets without heating in about 24 hours, if I recall correctly. It is however hard work on the fingers to get the yellow and blue stuff to mix evenly - I wouldn't want to do it in a survival situation.

All the info you could ever want on it is available here: green stuff

I have been using "green stuff" for years to mold housings for electronic jacks & such. IMHO it will not stand up to the forces needed to support a knife blade in our typical use. But for field use, it is a great medium speed 2 part epoxy. I keep a small piece of "green stuff" in my BOB. Have for years. But, replace it every 6 months or so. It gets dried out and does not mix well after that.

Instead I suggest getting a blade holder from any animal feed store. Look for a stainless steel scalpel holder. They will also have a large assortment of various blade shapes. Just "snap" on the one you want. I carry several blade types and two handles in my large first aid kit. You could cut a handle down to fit your kit. Be aware that not all blades fit all handles. Different brands and sizes.

You can probably also find disposable medical knives with plastic handles and various blades. But the blades are fixed, not interchangable.

For the small weigh penalty, I prefer the stainless ones with several blades. Have used them many many times for "minor surgery" in the field. Handy for general use as well.

Sounds like interesting stuff. After reading about it, "brown stuff" seems like it might be of use..." Brown Stuff is often used for weapon blades and other hard-line details."

Thanks to both of you...

The only time this clay gives off a smell is if you try to cure it at a high temperature.

The Primo brand is especially hard after curing. Any of the polymer clays can be reheated, either to add a fresh piece to the hard piece (no adhesive needed) or to harden a piece that wasn't quite done. 5-20 minutes, depending on thickness is usually sufficient, but reheating will only make it harder, not damage it.

This is a strong material, not brittle/breakable like stoneware or porcelain clays. It can be broken when rolled thin (like these Exacto blade handles), but they're just handles, not prybars. But even this thin, it does take some effort.

I don't know of anything that would be better for these conditions, even on-site if you had some heat. Polymers start curing at 90F, so I suspect that if you took a package with you (usually 2"x2"x5/8"), formed it, & set it near a heat source or improvised a small solar oven, you could come up with something. The curing temps for these clays vary by brand, but mostly between 165F & 265F.

If you put it in a fire, it would probably burn like any plastic.

This stuff is plastic, & waterproof. Never tried it, but it could probably take YEARS immersed in water. It might be covered with algae, but still useable.

The green stuff sounds like some kind of epoxy or polymer/epoxy. I've always had trouble mixing it properly.

The steel handles are what I usually use, but the 5" length won't fit everywhere, esp not in an Altoids tin <img src="images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />.

Primo handles are HARD & strong. Many artists make their own decorative handles for their tools, & they will take a considerable amount of pressure & abuse.

BTW, if you are using it to attach to a metal tool shaft or other, bake it with the tool in it, then pull it out when cold, add some Super Glue, & reset it. Polymer clay does NOT attach well to metal by itself.

The Exact blade works because of the hole in the handle end, where the clay reaches through the hole and grabs the clay on the other side.