To weave a net type hammock with 550 cord is a bit of over kill. The thing would probably support an elephant. Your best bet is to use masons twine. It is a much thinner strand. Looks like the inner strands of 550 with a break strength of a claimed 175 pounds. More than enough. You can find it at many hardware stores and all home Improvement places Ive been in. Being nylon and a bit slippery Your knots may want to slide around on you. A dab of glue [Hot melt works great] or silicon caulk will cure that problem.
Here is a sleeping system I have developed for use in extreme cold. Just use the plain hammock when it's hot, The system is designed for the Hennessy hammock but the modifications could even be rigged to a string hammock.
Hammock
For a sleeping system I recommend a hammock system. Yes a hammock can even work in the city. For that matter it can work right in your office. All you need are a pair of supports solid enough to support the weight and far enough apart to hang the hammock.
The advantage of a hammock is that it supports your body above the surface. If the area is wet you stay dry. If the surface is lumpy you don’t have things poking you in tender places. It is definitely softer than laying on the floor or the ground. If you have ever tried to sleep on a non-level surface you know how little rest you end up getting. Because you body had to fight all night to keep from sliding or rolling away. Direct contact with a solid surface can literally drain heat from the body at a phenomenal rate. Thus a hammock eliminates the expense, weight and space of a sleeping pad. Using the right style hammock it also combines the features of a tent. The whole thing ends up weighing less than a pad, sleeping bag and a tent. Although there is less space available.
One complaint many people have against hammocks during cold weather is that hanging in the air the wind blows all around it. With that you are affected by wind chill factor. While true this is not as great as uninsulated contact with the ground. But that can easily be overcome if you do not think along conventional lines. Most people think a hammock must be hung roughly at waist height. Well that just ain’t so. Sure that is convenient most of the time. It can be rigged so that when you are in it you are a mere fraction of an inch or a bit more off the ground. Then a very small windbreak will eliminate that problem.
Conversely you are not limited on how high up you can go either. Sleeping high in the air serves at the very least as a form of concealment since most people rarely look up unless something attracts their attention to do so. Therefore you are likely to go unnoticed. This is even better during the darkness. Even more so if there are other things to hide among.
If you are in the wilds or at least a natural setting like a park or the burbs to city dwellers. A hammock keeps you above those things that slither, creep and crawl along the ground. Higher up it can keep you safe from the wild beasties. In the case of an urban setting this could very well be a pack of wild or at least less than civilized dogs. It can even help you avoid the two-legged variety.
A word of caution. If you are considering the possibility of going aerial for a sleeping platform. You might want to include chest and waist straps as a safety precaution. If startled out a sound sleep you might leap out of bed. If you have a violent nightmare you could thrash your way out. This situation happening could lead to the rude surprise of suddenly finding yourself in free fall just before the thud. The effects of that sudden stop at the bottom will greatly depend upon the starting height. It could be a simple inconvenience, serious injuries or worse. Such straps will greatly reduce the chance of this happening or at least slow you down long enough to realize where you are. Think of them like seatbelts in a car.
There is a wide selection of hammocks available on the market. Of course there is also the option of do it yourself route from scratch or in my case adding a few modifications to an existing model. While there are a few designed to accommodate two people most are made to sleep only one. Although in a pinch these single sleepers can be pushed to hold 2 if they are very friendly or in some cases for a parent to include a child.
For those with the desire or need to go ultralight there are the string hammocks. They use relatively light cordage tied in a fishnet pattern. Some of the better ones have ratings of up to 500 pounds. In fact depending upon the mesh size used they can be used as a gill net or a cast net with a few minor adjustments. They can also work as a storage or tote bag for your equipment.
Then there are the old style military jungle hammocks or their civilian descendants. These systems add a roof and sometimes mosquito netting to the hammock. This way they act as a bed and as a tent combined. The modern civilian models are lighter in weight, more compact and have added features making them even better. The most notable of these are the Clark and Hennesy brands.
My choice a few years ago was to go with a modified Hennesy. Although in response to customer comments they have incorporated similar features to their latest models. I trimmed, shaped and re-hemmed a space blanket for a tight fit the outside of the hammock. Then attached snaps to connect them together. I also trimmed and fitted a second space blanket with ties for the inside. This acts as a cover or blanket. The combination makes a self-supported reflecting sleeping bag. Because of the gaps around the edges it is not quite as efficient as a solid bag. It does vent the water vapors your body produces. It actually makes it quite warm in cold weather. Because of the minimal nature of the space blankets the entire works packs with little difference in size and weight of the original setup. There is another product at home improvement stores that can substitute for the space blanket. This building insulation is in essence, bubble wrap sandwiched between 2 sheets of foil. It is nice insulation but does add a bit more bulk to the system.
Poncho
Poncho set up. Sure you have an emergency method for rain protection in the daily carry portion. But then again this is the upgrade section of the program. In my case and area of operation that being in the Northeast. I have combined a couple of ideas to form a more multifunctional garment. One of the ideas was to take a heavy-duty space blanket.
Cut a slit in the center.
Sew bias tape around the resultant opening.
This reinforces the edges so they don’t tear out. It is then pulled over the head and acts as an insulated hoodless poncho. The other concept is to add a layer or liner of insulation to a standard poncho. Either of military or civilian design. In most cases such liners as mine are of a pile type fabric, thinsulate or fleece blanket material. This liner can either be attached via snaps or zippers. I prefer and use snaps because they are easier to install. The liner lets the poncho function as a lightweight walk-around sleeping bag. Sort of a high tech bed roll. What I did was add the space blanket idea between the poncho shell and the liner using snaps. When all 3 pieces a used together it upgrades the thermal insulation value for cold weather. The nice thing about it is that each piece can be used independently or in any combination. This assembly not only functions as wearing apparel but also as portions of sheltering and sleeping systems. Don’t forget you further can and probably should line the hood with insulation and a tin foil beanie.
Sleeping System
Combining the upgraded poncho, the modified hammock and using the emergency space blanket from a maxi survival kit I formed a winter weather sleeping system. I have tested the system in subzero actual temperatures with a measurable amount of wind blowing. Overall I would have probably faired better and much preferred a sleeping mat and a sleeping bag rated for the conditions. While a bit cold and having to get up to stoke the fire it was a survivable situation. No, the initial tests were not an all or nothing situation. I started in warmer temperatures and had backups and a quick out. Initial tests were conducted in my backyard. I’m not going to risk my life on something unproven. Then worked my way up or should I say down the scale. Until I had something that I knew would work in extreme conditions. I would say that adding a sleeping bag rated in the teens or twenties would be comfortable in the minus 40’s or stretched to the 50’s. It was not a clothing optional situation as they were part of the insulation used. Besides it made it easier to get up to tend the fire. The insulated poncho liner is wrapped around you and used as a blanket or bedroll. While I never tried it adding a sleeping pad inside the hammock might have made things even more comfortable.
I’ll use compass directions to give some perspective. To start say the wind is blowing from east to west. Of course if you are building such a setup use the actual wind direction to align it. If there is a significant snow cover dig a north south trench. Then hang the hammock so that it fits into the trench without touching the sides or bottom. The trench will act as an additional windbreak. With little or no snow the trench is not necessary. Hang the hammock as close as possible to the ground without touching when fully loaded. The head and foot orientation north to south is whatever is most comfortable for the terrain.
A lean-to frame is the constructed to surround the hammock. The low side points east with the opening toward the west. The top of the lean-to is made so that it barely clears the top of the hammock system. It should extend far enough that when finished the hammock is completely enclosed on the ends and top. Obviously the downwind side is left open.
The emergency space blanket is the draped over the frame. Because of the fragile nature of the blanket it is then covered with the poncho. This gives you a reflective, water and relatively wind tight roof. Then the roof and sides can be covered and enclose with brush, branches, snow or debris to form a more solid shelter. The space blanket liner of the poncho is erected a short distance from and across the opening of the lean-to at the west end. The spacing is such that a fire can be built between them. The different space blankets are in these positions because of their differences in strength to withstand the stresses they will be subjected to. What the combined reflective qualities of the two blankets do is form a reflector oven. The back reflector pushes much of the heat of the fire into the shelter and the roof blanket directs that heat down to where you are sleeping. Only instead of baking biscuits you become the roast.
If there are to be others involved with similar set-ups. The fire reflector can be eliminated. Then the other lean-tos involved can surround the fire to reflect towards each other. Although if there are not enough to enclose the fire the reflector can be erected to fill the gap. This set up will work for about 4 but maybe be pushed to 5. Any more would require separate areas and fires. While common corners can be used in construction. Make sure that at least one corner is left open for access. It’s a real pain to have to climb over the lean-tos to get in and out.
If there is little or no snow the entire setup could be improved by including a hot rock bed as described by Ron Hood. If this is used you might want to lower the hammock even more so that it can actually touch the ground. While the system can be setup in a relatively short time. If the hot rock bed is to be included you will need to add a couple of hours to the prep time. First to sufficiently heat the rocks and for the time to bake the moisture out of the soil. You don’t really want to start your night in a steam bath. When things cool as the night passes that steam will condense and make you wet and even colder.
Either system are by their nature are one night setups for someone on the move. But if you are going to be in a single location for a period of time it might be worth the effort and time to improve on the hot rock bed concept and go with the hot draft bed. This is a similar concept of heating the sleeping area with fire but is reusable. Several, usually 3, trenches are dug then roofed over with sticks as then covered over with the dug up dirt. The trenches are about a foot wide, 6 to 12 inches deep and spaced about a foot apart This heats an area about 6 feet wide by however long the trenches are. Figure 3 to 4 feet long for one person and up to about 10 feet for 3 or 4 person sleeping area. 10 feet is about the maximum useable length. If you need to accommodate more people you will need to construct additional bedding areas. At the both ends the trenches converge to a single underground point. At one end typically the downwind end a chimney of at least 3 feet tall is built from available rocks. The chimney is then packed with mud, clay or even dirt to seal the cracks. A fire is then built in the hole at the other end formed by the converging trenches. The effect is that the smoke but more importantly the heat from the fire travels through the trenches and up the chimney. It takes a while to heat up and drive the moisture out of the soil in the sleeping area. The nice thing is that once built. Simply by building another fire you can use it over and over again. Such a sleeping system can be used in the open but can be improved by being roofed. But if roofed the chimney must extend above it.
_________________________
When in danger or in doubt
run in circles scream and shout
RAH
And always remember TANSTAAFL
Previous Topic
Index
