The Ritter- it helps keep the server on.

I carried at one time a Cold Steel Master Hunter which I beat the heck out of... So it worked for me then.

Now I carry a Mora for small chores and Himalayan Import Khukri for chopping. These work for me now.

I tried several others before and in between that I did not like.
So I agree with OldBaldGuy, "...you should go with what turns YOU on..."

Interesting that you should mention the CS Master Hunter. I have had one for 20+ years, and really like it. Great minds...

I'd warmly recommend a 4" Scandinavian knife. Either a Mora or something slightly more expensive (up to $30). A laminated blade would be a good choice and it still won't hurt your budget. Perfect for daily chores (anything short of chopping), light, extremely sharp and easy to sharpen, simply the most knife for the buck you could possibly find.

For general purpose bushcraft use I would go with the Ritter RSK Mk3 from your selected 4 options. A slightly larger blade might be required if you are going to chop branches and cut wood though, something like a FÄLLKNIVEN KNIVES - S1 FOREST KNIFE maybe better suited in a VG10 Laminate Steel with a 5 inch blade. Have seen it for about $109 with a leather cover and should be within your budget from your initial selection. VG10 and CMP-S30V are both top notch steels but the VG10 Laminate steel may have an edge on the CMP-S30V over its resistance to reported possible edge chipping (this is most likely to heat treatment issues from other manufacturers, therefore would not be an issue with the Ritter RSK Mk3). The Swamprat Howling Rat is not made from a Stainless Steel and will have good/excellent edge retention and excellent toughness qualities but poorer corrosion properties (important to retain an edge in a corrosive environment i.e salt water)

I've read the article about grinds on Wikipedia to try to sort things better:



So according to wikipedia, a true flat grind would be like no. 2 and would taper all the way from the spine to the edge of both sides, without a secondary bevel and it seems to be rare. I think the Grohman flat grind is actually a no. 2 combined with a secondary bevel (no. 5) to add resilience. So my guess is that it could probably indeed weaken the blade slightly.

If I understand correctly, the Mora knives have a Sabre grind (no. 3) so is Ray Mears' "Woodlore" knife BTW. This is the one I'm talking about that will make nice shavings (like a double chisel) and is easier to sharpen. Is this correct?

Frankie

I don't have most of the knives you mention, so I can give fair comments.

I have several Moras, a Buck Special, a Becker Crewman, and the Ritter Mk3. The Moras have been sent to kitchen duty in my popup trailer. The Buck Special, purchased when I was a teenager, hasn't seen the light of day for some time. The Crewman is too heavy and "tactical" for my camping trips (I've got to be careful around the Scouts).

My clear favorite is the Mk3. It goes with me everywhere when camping. It is simply a wonderful design for all-around camp use. That's in addition to my newly established faith in the S30V blades.

Don't just assume that the Mk3 is an Mk1 without the joint. It is much beefier than the Mk1. Black length & thickness provide huge tradeoffs. Doug got it just right with the Mk3.

I should also mention that I've found the folks at Aeromedix a delight to work with. When I ordered my mini-Mk1 a few years back they accidentally sent me a fullsize Mk1. They were very good about the exchange process (even though it hurt to send back a beautiful Mk1 - I already had one though).

Ken K.

The grind configuration that the Moras come with out of the factory just lend themselves to the wood working and shaving that is so crucial in bush survival. A sub-bevel is justified primarily for kitchen knives because you want the edge to last longer and don't want to spend too much time sharpening them, and you never have to shave wood with them. That's how I understand it.

As mentioned, picking a blade is a personal choice - Your list of blades is great! Have you looked at the SOG Revolver? Its not perfect and doesn't fit everyone's needs but I love mine and you'll find some good reviews about it on the net if you look around. Its lite, its pretty tough, its not a huge chopper but the integrated saw is very agressive and the blade is very handy... I love big blades too, but for non-city EDC where you may run into people, the SOG Revolver and Hunter Revolver are very concealable, functional tools.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354507&highlight=sog+revolver

Please don't misinterpret my comment about my moras ending up in my popup trailer. They fine fine knives, especially for their cost, and I'd highly recommend them to anyone who is looking to get a fixed blade on a budget. Its just that the fine Mk3 has replaced them in my daypack.