But what kind of oil? Is mineral (Parraffin) oil a good choice?

Thanks

Bah... I just toss mine in either a box in the closet or my desk drawer. They seem to do just fine. The only caveat is if I use it and it gets dirty. Then it's just a rinse under the kitchen sink, dry with a towel, then air dry for the rest of the day. No problems yet. Sometimes run a Q-tip down the middle and get some pocket lint out.

Probably had over 2 dozen folders, and only had one get any hint of rust: an ATS-34 (I think) Emerson CQC-6. I was NOT pleased with that knife.

Knives that I don't use? I don't have many of those. I own a bunch, but I'm not a collector.

As said, don't store a knife long-term in a leather sheath. One thing I found out the hard was to not store anything metal near a bottle of iodine water treatment tabs. I had one in a kit. The iodine tabs ate throught the metal cap on the bottle, then started eating through the stainless steel knife also stored in the kit.

I just keep the knives I don't have on me either in a drawer, in the box they came in, or in a plastic fishing tackle box. I've never heard of storing folders opened. That would be tricky for me. I keep them clean, but I don't wax or oil them. 'Course, I live in SoCal. No humidity to speak of.

Kevin B.

One item not mentioned (I've gotta log in more often) is a wonderful substance called Renaissance Wax. I have gathered any number of knives over the years, along with a few real (as opposed to costume or wall-hangers) swords. Ren Wax goes on easy and comes off with a wipe, but it is a preservative so I wouldn't consider it for food preparation material unless you know you will have a chance to really wash the contact surface first. I'm thinking for a BOB or just preservation of metal not presently in use. I'd offer a link, but anyone can Goggle it and probably find a cheaper source. One can lasts a while.

Philip

That's what I have in mind, storing carbon steel knives that I don't need, then wash them when I'm going to use it in the field. The Renaissance wax is used by British museums for conservation purposes. But I was not expecting this to be so expensive though.

Frankie

Frankie,
Renaissance wax seems to be pretty good stuff. I bought a can a few years ago for use in the shop (woodworking). When I ran out, I didn't buy any more because of its cost. Plain old Minwax works as well as I need it to at a fraction of the cost.

I'd say use a good oil then wrap the knife well in saran wrap or some non-absorbant cloth ( i have no idea what that might be). When you need it, you can just wipe the oil off if you're unable to wash it, and it should be just fine for food prep. A little oil (that tiny film that remains), even if petroleum based, wouldn;t worry me during an emergency.

That's what I use. I'm pretty sure that what we Americans call mineral oil is non-toxic and should be safe in the minute quantities that you'll get on a blade. I'm not sure if that is the same stuff up your way though. I've also heard of guys using olive oil, but I'd like to make sure it won't go rancid over time before I'd use it.

Hmm, the Ren wax seems too expensive, and the oil and saran wrap too much hassle. I will stick with either the tuf cloth or possible the Armadillo from Blue Wonder, try this link:

http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderArmadillo.html

If you are gonna use a wax, this would be my recommendation. However, I switched to the tuf cloth because it is inexpensive, durable, and the easiest thing to use on gun/knife metal I have found. No sprays, no applicators, no residue. Just wipe the cloth on the metal, let it set for a minute, then put it away. Plus it is lightweight and very portable. I also don't worry about having to remove it before I use my knife for anything, inlcuding preparing food.

Rem Oil, Ballistol, Break free, Bore Butter, I suppose each can be adapted to work similarly, but none of them have ever seemed to be as effective, and I've tried them all. Heck, I've even seasoned carbon steel blades with lard using heat to volatize the fat and deposit a carbon coating with some success. You might be surprised at just how effective that last method is. Hey, if it will work for cast iron pots, then why not for carbon steel knives and gun barrels?

I think I'll start with mineral oil, that you find in pharmacies. But nobody gave any comments on silicone spray. Is it a good alternative?

Thanks