HurCon Checklist



5=definite threat possibility with no specific intel.
4=event could occur/start in 72 hours-specific intel
3=event could occur/start in 48 hours-specific intel
2=event could occur/start in 24 hours-specific intel
1=event could occur/start in 12 hours or is in progress.


HURRICANE SEASON: regular season – 01June through 01December

HurCon 5: Automatically set at the beginning of Hurricane Season (01Jun) and is automatically secured at the end of the Hurricane Season (01Dec). Upon setting HurCon 5:
1. Update emergency supply inventory
2. Top off all 5gal gas cans (stabilized)
3. Swap out all stored water
4. Update the Hurricane Contingency Plans
5. Review the plans with Household members.

HurCon 4: Set when expected landfall is within 72 hours and within range to affect the family. Upon setting HurCon 4:
1. Go to Home Depot and pick up a sufficient quantity of 2" deck screws (if in short supply), 1"x4" and 1"x12" pine boards to install shutters over the windows and doors (1"x4") that have them and to board up over the few windows that don't have shutters (1”x12”).
2. Keep the vehicle gas tanks above 1/2 tank levels.
3. Go to the grocery store and top off the pantry with normal foodstuffs.
4. Insure that all propane bottles are topped off.
5. Insure that battery supplies are sufficient.
6. Insure that flashlights and lanterns are working.

HurCon 3: Set when expected landfall is 48 hours away and is close enough to affect the family. Upon setting HurCon 3:
1. Review checklists for any missing items or chores that remain to be done.
2. Top off all vehicle fuel tanks.

HurCon 2: Set when expected landfall is 24 hours away and is close enough to affect the family. Upon setting HurCon 2:
1. Prepare our Hurricane Shelter area within the house (the main hall next to the bathroom).
2. Secure all missile hazards in the yard. Tie down everything that needs tying down.
3. Install shutters or board up all windows and doors, except for 1 front door and 1 back door.
4. Top off all BOB's.

HurCon 1: Set just prior to expected landfall.
1. Set up in the Hurricane Shelter (inside of my home) and start dealing cards, monitoring the TV (as long as power lasts), and radio broadcasts.
2. Visually monitor what the storm is doing to the neighborhood (from the safety of the house), for the duration of the storm.
3. Be prepared to grab BOB's and run to higher ground, if worse case scenario were to develop.

We go through hurricanes every year also and it's starting to get to be a natural process also. Here's some more add ons we do at any threat of a hurricane.
1. Get a minimum of 20 Gallons of water (we have also a water purifier, portable distillery and 1 PUR 35 desalination pump in BOB)
2. Get all the money we can get from the ATM 24-48 hours of a suspect impact on our coast. (once the hurricane hits and leaves, everything is cash only, no money no nothing for days)
3. Fill up 100% both cars and 55 gallon barrel (food grade)and 4- 5 gallon jugs full of fuel. (add stabilizer to last the rest of season, then we burn the fuel in the cars after the season to rotate the fuel)
4.Charge up the propane tank for the grill and run the generator for 30 min. (which has a Harbor Freight 1.5 watt solar cell that trickle charges the battery the whole season)
5.Buy can food and pasta,big ole bag of rice,honey,etc.. (non perishables), then we put steaks or burgers in the fridge and things for 5 days if we have to goto generator (makes life enjoyable if we lose power and on generator).
6.Gather all important documents and BOB and firearms (the ones I plan to carry) and put it by the bed and once the hurricane hit's my area it stays with me 100% in case the house goes and trees fall on the cars and were left on foot.
7.Use 2 programs to monitor storm (Storm Predator and Eye of the Storm) and use TV weather channel and NOAA as back ups then switch to wind up solar radio once power is lost.
8.Pray!
9.Once storm passes then either store the stuff until next hurricane, or fire up the generator (Outside) and wait days for power or grab BOB and head for car or grab BOB and head out on foot.

How long does it take to board up you house? How many windows are involved?

Have you done anything to reenforce your roof trusses againt the wind?

-Blast

I'm by no means an expert, but you may want to change some things. I am basing this off of what I have seen in South FL. I'll try to list them in an understandable order, "when I make lists they tend to get a little convoluted"

"HurCon 4.
1. Go to Home Depot and pick up a sufficient quantity of 2" deck screws (if in short supply), 1"x4" and 1"x12" pine boards to install shutters over the windows and doors (1"x4") that have them and to board up over the few windows that don't have shutters (1?x12?)."

It may already be too late by then. Home Depot/Lowes can be a madhouse when there is a hurricane threat, all types of screws will be sold out, and the lumber will be gone. You want to have both screws and wood on hand already, and the screws you get should be based on what your house is made of. If you have a wood frame house, then deck screws should work fine. If you have a masonry, or concrete house, then you may want tapcons, concrete machine screw anchors, or wedge anchors, "Keep in mind that with wedge anchors, they are permanant, once they are set, there in there for good, the idea though is to have holes pre-drilled in the wood or shutters, so you can mount them with wing nuts."

If you use wood, it's a good idea to seal it first, either with some good outdoor grade deck stain, or anything that will really hold against the water, "a friend of mine coated his with fiberglass resin, 'before you ask, he's a boat builder' he has had those panels for 10+ years, and they still show no signs of water entry"

"3. Go to the grocery store and top off the pantry with normal foodstuffs."

Idealy this should be done already, if you have the room, it's a good idea to buy this stuff before hand "spread it out over time "a few cans here, a few there" and begin stocking up beforehand. This can even be done off season.

I suggest it be done early as it will be subject to the same exact rush as the hardware stores. If you don't have the room to store it, make room. Get a big storage container, fill it with canned food, and place it in an internal closet. While everyone is out rushing to get stuff, you can rest assured that you already have basics ready.
4. Insure that all propane bottles are topped off.
This can be done in HurCon 5, you will avoid the huge lines that way.

5. Insure that battery supplies are sufficient.
This is the same, idealy done in HurCon 5, there will be a run on batteries in 4 and below
6. Insure that flashlights and lanterns are working.
Same, I have seen Wal-Mart sell out within hours of a 72 hour possibility being broadcast.

HurCon 3:
1. Review checklists for any missing items or chores that remain to be done.

Idealy this should be done with 4, you have a better chance if you need to buy something.

2. Top off all vehicle fuel tanks.
This is fine, however be prepaired for lines. If you have a gen, you can fill your gas cans now as well, !!!DO NOT KEEP THE GAS CANS INDOORS" Keep them in a seperate shead, or a garage. If you have a natural gas furnace or water heater in the garage, keep the cans elsewhere.

Be prepaired to drive around for a bit, as this is the time that gas stations will run out. Tempers will also run high during this time, you may see cutting in line, and arguments/fights may break out, they certanly did around here.

HurCon 2:
Everything good on this one.

HurCon 1:
Same, though keep in mind that if you do have to run, don't forget the storm is still out there.


I hope everyone has a safe 2007 season.

I'm allowing an entire day to board up everything.

No, I've not seen any reasons to reinforce the trusses, yet!

This list is not perfect and I will gladly accept recommendations to make it better such as Falcon's contribution. Thanks Falcon!!!

"...It may already be too late by then. Home Depot/Lowes can be a madhouse when there is a hurricane threat, all types of screws will be sold out, and the lumber will be gone. You want to have both screws and wood on hand already, and the screws you get should be based on what your house is made of. If you have a wood frame house, then deck screws should work fine. If you have a masonry, or concrete house, then you may want tapcons, concrete machine screw anchors, or wedge anchors, "Keep in mind that with wedge anchors, they are permanant, once they are set, there in there for good, the idea though is to have holes pre-drilled in the wood or shutters, so you can mount them with wing nuts..."

Finally someone says what I have thought for years. Every season see people at the "lumber" type stores, fighting for sheets of plywood. I have always wondered why anyone who lives in hurricane country would not have their home pre-setup like that...

My home is set up for the Hurricane Season with plywood, screws, tools, etc. These items do get used throughout the year, by the kids, the wife, myself,and/or given to a neighbor in need. This is the time to recheck to make sure that you actually have what you think you have!

These items can always be "cut & pasted" at the condition each individual thinks is appropriate for his/her circumstances and location.

This is the glory of the modern home computor.

BTW: I've been through more hurricanes than I can remember. I do remember Betsy (my 1st), Camille, Andrew, and Lilly (took roofing damage). Katrina went to 1 side & Rita went by another side.

"...I've been through more hurricanes than I can remember..."

I don't know how you guys do it. I am from earthquake country, where we get no warning, but they don't come every year, several times a year!!!

Thanks wildman800 , I'm up in central,Fla and we already have made our boards and holes pre drilled several hurricanes back. The biggest thing that takes time is tying down the shed in the back even though it has anchors (we had the balloon effect on it when we had the 110 mph winds and it almost popped on us)so it gets cargo netted down. Also pulling down the satellite antenna and securing anything that can go airborne and definitely disconnecting the garage linkage from the door (Just pull the little string). I didn't do that one hurricane season and the winds ground off all the teeth in the trolley. Now we have a better door and 4X4's to brace them. You can't let any windows,doors or garage be breached or the roof may pop off. I've been trying to reinforce the old roof (New shingles) a little better. And we learned the hard way to stay from 3 tab and the Spanish porcelain shingles. Since the architect shingles went on, we've been doing good. Just pray for the tornadoes to stay away or the house will be toast.

I cover my garage doors with 3/4" plywood and brace the doors with 2"x4"s a well.

I have been trying to come up with a better system than tying/anchoring lines around the little tin storage building in the back yard. Thanks for the Cargo Net idea. That will work perfectly.

We can see the hurricanes coming while it is still days away.

None of us understand how you "Worst Coasters" can deal with the constant threat of unannounced earthquakes!!!!!

"...None of us understand how you "Worst Coasters" can deal with the constant threat of unannounced earthquakes!!!!!..."

Some of us survive long enough to retire, fire up the motorhome, and go to greener pastures (and ground that does not move) for a while...

Black Wulf is right on target. Most all preps should be done further in advance. Purchases of supplies can take up an amazing amount of time that can be put to better use in an approaching storm...believe me, after living in the Keys for 30 years I've been through more than my share of hurricanes. Murphy tends to rear his ugly head. A strained back or twisted ankle can put a big crimp in your alloted time frame for shutter installation.
The other thing that is missing is any consideration of bugging out. I don't know your situation, it may be that is not a nessesary option due to your geographical location but for anyone who needs that option it should be considered early and taken advantage of early. 48 hours out is about perfect in my situation, much later an I run into the traffic and fuel shortage problems.
I commend you Wildman for taking the time to think things out and plan for your family. Remember when dealing with hurricane planning earlier is ALWAYS better.

Didn't see anything for power generation on your list, unless that was implied by your remark about filling your gas cans (if it was, just ignore the rest ).

My parents went through Rita, and the nightmare for them was the heat and humidity without power (that, and the loss of their fish without power). Hurricanes are tropical systems driven by sweltering heat and humidity, and southeast Texas isn't a fun place in the summer to begin with. Heat can kill.

Depending on your power needs, there are a number of options. I'm up in Iowa, but I made good use this winter (when an ice storm took out or power for 24 hours) of one of those DC inverters that you hook into a car's cigarette lighter slot. They cost almost nothing, and having a couple hundred watts at your disposal can turn a miserable situation into an enjoyable one. You could run an oscillating fan, a couple CFL light bulbs (or even more diode bulbs), and a laptop for entertainment.

If you want more power, you could invest in a diesel generator. They're pricey, but if you live in Hurricane Central, it might not be a bad idea.

If you have a generator, you might want to put "testing it" on your HurCon 5 list.

You definately need to consider the garage door. Unless it's up to recent code, it's one of the weakest points on the house.

If you have any pine trees that can fall and hit your house, I'd cut those suckers out. I've seen at least 50 toppled pines for every downed oak tree.

As "post whorish" as this sounds, perhaps we should try to keep this topic near the front of the list. If we add comments, ideas, and suggestions about our experience, and things we have found that work, it could turn into a pretty good hurricane prep topic. Anyone have opinions on this idea?

Copy and paste the checklist to a word processing file.

Re-arrange the different items on the checklist to suit your own personal beliefs and the local conditions that you live with.

Add those suggested items from the forum to that place on the checklist where you believe those items belong.

When one can see the (potential) disaster approaching, one can take the logical steps at the logical times to be ready to either weather the storm or Lock down and run for it!

Our local paper ran a front page story telling people to get ready. We'll see if anyone is listening.

A consideration would be to prune weak branches on your trees. Not only would you stop them from becoming shrapnel, but the less surface area the tree has, the less wind it'll catch, and the less stress it should have on its trunk.

Oh, a tip my parents mentioned from Rita, although you probably already know this, and it only applies if you have a pool: Anything that can tolerate being water logged that you don't want in your house and will sink, throw it in your swimming pool. Things in the bottom of a pool don't blow away My parents did that with all of their patio furniture and outdoor decorative items that they were worried about.

Hi wildman800

Intel for the HurCon Checklist seems to be crucial in making decisions. Making informed decisions about the track of an impeding Hurricane I think is very important. Why not get intel from Satellite imagery as quick as the pros by registering at http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/
and gain access to the Geostationary Satellite Archive. Lots of high resolution satellite imagery covering the whole world including the US.
Its FREE to register and could be a useful resource.

Throwing stuff in the pool is not really a good idea. Some people do it, but you may want to be aware of the dangers of doing so. Say you have a 30 pound lawn chair, you throw it in the pool. You should really lower it into the pool, and keep a hold on it till it hits the bottom. If you drop that chair in, and let go, it could sink to fast and crack the lining of the pool. If it gets a crack, the water would start draining slowly and you would have to get it repaired. Repairing the lining is not a cheep or fast job, they need to drain all the water, chisel out the area around the crack, replace the beding as it will have most likely liquified or collapsed, then repour the concrete, reapply the lining, then redo the diamond brite or other coating, then kill your waterbill to refill it.

I would say follow this one at your own risk, it works if done right, but be aware that if your not extremely carefull it can cause chaos. Also be aware that insurance companies know about this completely, so if you try to claim a cracked pool lining, they will deny the claim.

I assumed people would be smart enough not to *literally throw* things into their pool

tut, tut, tut,,,you've been and are speaking in a common sense fashion. that is strictly prohibited by the latest Presidential Directive.

It would make sense to assume it, but remember the "common sense" warnings you find on various items, such as don't use hair drier while sitting in a bathtub of water, topical medications with warnings of "for external use only" and the little dissicant packets that come with electronics that warn "do not eat" People tend to be rather stupid at times. Thats what bodily harm wavers are for.

Hurricane shutters are something that of late has been in really high demand, primarily due to the increased number of landfall hurricanes we have gotten in the past few years.
There are several types, I am going to cover the most popular type, pros and cons with each, their cost, and worktime needed for them.

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Storm panel shutters.
The first type are storm panel style. These are made of steel, aluminum, or polycarbonate, and are corrugated, and overlap at the edges to provide strength.
Of these, there are three variations.

First uses both tracks and bolts. There is usually an aluminum track above the window where the top edge of the panel would be inserted, then they would be bolted to the bottom of the window using bolts which are permaantly mounted in the wall. These panels mount vertically.

Second type uses two aluminum tracks, one on the top and one on the bottom of the window. These panels must be inserted into the side of the channel. Once they are alligned, they can be bolted to the channels. These panels also mount vertically.

Third type uses permanent bolts set into the wall next to doors and windows. These panels can be hung to allow allignment, then bolted down when done. These panels mount horizontally.

PROS
-Cheapest of the permanent shutter systems.
-Removable, so they don't detract from the look of the house when not in use.
-Strong, They don't get much stronger than this.

CONS
-Storage, you need a bit of space to store this type of shutters when not in use.
-Not the easiest to handle, longer shutters may require more than one person to install.
-Don't always line up correctly, however you can mark the shutters to make allignment easier.
-Sharp edges, If you are using steel or aluminum, it's recomended you wear gloves while installing.

Cost. 7-8 dollars per square foot
Prep time, can be as little as 15 minutes for small windows, however can take as much as much as an hour. Plan using the whole day to mount these.
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Accordion shutters.
These shutters are usually one piece, or two piece for larger windows, they mount in a housing next to the windows or doors while not in use.
As a storm closes in, they can be unfolded to protect the window or door.

PROS
-They are permanently mounted, and stored in housing next to the windows so you sacrifice no storage space.
-Can be done by one person, quickly. Even the elderly can handle these shutters.
-Some models can be locked which can provide theft protection if you have to bug out.

CONS
-The housing looks rather unsightly, they are large boxes on either side of the windows or doors.
-They are on wheels whcih means they can break "more moving parts" and they need regular maintence.

Cost 16-20 dollars per square foot
Prep time 10-15 minutes for the entire house.
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Colonial shutters.
These are two piece louvered shutters that attach to the wall beside each window, when needed, they can be closed to provide protection for the window.

PROS
-Permanently mounted, they are already mounted to the home, so they don't need additional storage space.
-Can be made storm ready by one person, including the elderly.
-Can be decorative, they add to the look of the home.

CONS
-Some shutters require a locking rod or bar to lock the shutters in place, this can increase the prep time.
-Doesn't protect doors, another type of shutter system will be needed for complete protection.

Cost. 18-30 dollars per square foot
Prep time 45 minutes to an hour for the entire house.
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Bahama shutters.
These one piece louvered shutters attach above the windows, and can be proped open to provide shade for the window, or bolted down to provide protection.

PROS
-Permanently mounted, and don't require additional storage space.
-Can be made storm ready by one person.
-Provide permanent shade and privacy, even when open.

CONS
-Have been weaker then other system, however newer models protect quite well.
-The can block too much light, thought compaired to a corrugated steel or aluminum shutter, they let in a lot.
-They don't protect doors, just like the colonial.

Cost 18-30 dollars per square foot
Prep time 15-30 minutes for the entire house.
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Roll down shutters.
These shutters attach above the window, and roll up and store in the box when not in use. They can be lowered via a handcrank and some models are electric

PROS
-Permanently mounted to the house, don't require storage space.
-Can be made storm ready by one person, some systems can be controled from a central panel, hit a switch and they all lower.
-One of the best methods of protection, and provide theft deterrent as well.

CONS
-Most expensive
-Electric shutters require a backup battery or some manual method of using them or your out of luck till the electricity returns.

Cost 30-55 dollars per square foot
Prep time 5 to 15 minutes.
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Hurricane glass
This glass can withstand debris and wind and provide breakin protection.

PROS
-Eliminates the need for shutters.
-Permanent, once hung they are part of the house.

CONS
-Must be installed by a contractor.
-Frame must be replaced along with the pane to meet code.
-Not ideal for old houses as it will cost more to retrofit a house, best for new construction.

Cost 35-50 dollars per square foot, that includes frame and glass.
Prep time 0, already part of the house

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Other window coverings
There are new window coverings made from a high tech fabric which allows light and visibility while protecting from winds enough to meet hurricane code.
Pros
-Permanent, doesn't require prep time,
Cons
-Must be installed by contractor or dealer.
-Few types of window films meet hurricane protection codes, but may give limited protection if properly installed.
There are also less expensive window panes, more along the lines of thick plastic security windows are about half the cost of layered panes, however they can be less then aesthetically satisfactory for home use as they scratch easily and fog in contact with common cleaning chemicals
Cost varies
Prep time varies
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Plywood
plywood shutters do not meet most building codes, however many homeowners who lack more permanent shutters cover their homes with them. These are a use at your own risk type system.

Barrel-bolt plywood shutters
Use on concrete-block stucco homes that have windows inset at least two inches from the exterior wall.

Buy plywood ahead of time, before the rush. Make sure it is at least 5/8 of an inch thick.
Buy 3 or 4-inch barrel bolts, enough for one bolt for a minimum of every 12 inches of plywood.
Cut the plywood sheets to size for each window, allowing for a snug fit in the inset.
For larger windows or sliding doors, attach two pieces of plywood together with 2x4's or a piano hinge.
Attach bolts to plywood, mark where you need the holes to be drilled in the concrete stucco.
Drill holes, in marked spots in concrete stucco.
When storm approaches, fit plywood into the inset as tightly as possible. You don't want wind to get under the shutter.
Overlapping plywood shutters
If your windows do not have a 2-inch inset, plywood shutters can overlap.


Buy plywood ahead of time, before the rush. Make sure it is at least 5/8 of an inch thick.
Cut the plywood sheets to size for each window, allowing for an overlap of at least 4 inches. Label each panel.
Drill corresponding holes in the plywood and walls. Use a 1/4-inch drill bit for the wood. Use a masonry or carbide-tipped bit for concrete or stucco walls.
Hammer 1/4-inch lead sleeve anchors – not plastic – into the holes in the wall. The anchors should be at least 2 inches long.
When a hurricane threatens, use tapping screws at least 2 inches long to bolt the plywood in place.
Cost 1-5 dollars per square foot
prep time 1 - 1 1/2 hours per window.



Keep in mind that while these shutters will protect your windows, they are just one aspect of protecting a home completely. You ever hear the saying "a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link"
This applies to homes as well. If you have a concrete poured home, braced roof, doors, and shuttered windows, you are in a virtual bunker. However if you are in a wood frame home with termite damage, and a non code roof, windows should be the least of your worrys.

Excellent post, great info.

Thanks for the info. I've placed a copy in my "prep tips" file for future reference.

NOTE THIS ARTICLE HAS CAUSED A BIT OF STRAY IN THE TOPIC OF DISCUSSION, I HAVE EDITED THE PORTION BELOW WHICH HAS CAUSED THIS STRAY. 6/12/07 09:14

Generators are kind a luxury in terms of preperation, while they are make life easier, they are not necessary.



This guide will cover the types, fuels, usage, cost, advantages and disadvantages. It will also cover a few safety and security items involved with generators.



When you are looking to buy a generator, you have a few different options in terms of types, fueling, and wattage.



Generators will come in four types, two of them are well suited for home and business use. The other two are rather specialized use. The four types are portable, permanent “also known as standby”, rv “recreational vehicle”, and pto “power take off”.



Portable

The first type is portable. Portable generators can be used for a household, business, camping, and construction. These generators are normally within a frame of tubular steel, some have wheels, or wheel kits can be purchased separately. These generators can range from a few hundred watts to over 150 kilowatts “a kilowatt equals 1000 watts”.

These generators can be transported around as needed, some are even small enough to be carried by hand, or in the trunk of your car. The largest generators usually need to be transported by a truck, some are even on a built in trailer.



Pros

-Portability. These can be used as residential/business use, and you can also use them for camping or at construction sites.

-Convince. They can be stored when not needed and placed into service when the time comes.



Cons

-Required space. Due to their sheer size, storage may be an issue, especially in the larger ones. You should consider the amount of available space you have when looking.

-Security. Due to the portability of these, security is a very big issue. Security will be covered later in this article.

-Manual operation. When the power goes out, you need to start this generator manually either by pull cord or electric start.

Costs

Costs can vary widely based on the wattage, fuel, and brand. They can range from a few hundred dollars to over thirty thousand dollars.

Permanent standby

The second option are permanent standby generators. These are normally enclosed within a sheet metal body and must be permanently mounted. These generators range in wattages of a few thousand wattages in home standby to four hundred kilowatts in terms of commercial standby.



Pros

-Security. These generators must be bolted to a concrete pad, and the shell normally has locking access doors which help keep the bolts from being removed.

-Storage. Due to the fact that these generators must be mounted outside of the house on a concrete pad, you don’t loose storage space inside of your home or business.

-Ease of use. These generators are attached to the home or business’s utility service via transfer panels. Most of these generators have auto start features which turn them when the power fails, so you will only loose power for a minute or so at the most. They will also start for a few minutes either once a week, or month in order to keep everything lubricated, charge the battery, and to keep the fuel from going stale.

Cons

-Portability. These generators can’t be moved around, once they are set they can’t be ported to another location without some work. It’s not to say that they can’t be moved, but it takes quite a bit of work to do so.

-The pad. These generators must be installed on a concrete pad, and typically the pad will need to be poured by a contractor. Most towns and cities will require a permit as it is considered construction. If you live in an HOA community, they may also have additional restrictions.

-Transfer panel. These generators also require transfer panels which typically need to be installed by a licensed electrician, and may require the approval of your local utility company after it is installed.

Cost. Like portable generators, these generators vary widely in cost ranging from a few thousand dollars to more than thirty thousand.



The next two I am going to cover briefly as they are not ideal for standby generators.

RV

These generators are found on RV’s and campers. Some can be used to power items outside of the RV, but it is usually limited due to their size and wattage output.

Their wattage range from a few thousand watts to 12 kilowatts.
One good thing about RV generators, is due to their design and use, they tend to be very quiet.

PTO “Power take off”

These generators are used more commonly in construction or farm applications as they require either a tractor with a PTO or a diesel truck with a PTO capable transmission.

These generators range in wattages from a few thousand to over 75 kilowatts.





Fuel types

There are four general fuel types which are used, they are gasoline, diesel, lp “liquid propane” and natural gas.



Gasoline

Gasoline generators can range from a few hundred watts to 20+ kilowatts, gasoline is perhaps the most common fuel of portable generators as you can get gasoline pretty much anywhere. They can run on regular gas though they may not do to well on premium. Plus, once the emergency is over, you can use the gas in your car. Gasoline however has drawbacks, one being stability. Gasoline is rather volatile, meaning that it evaporates quickly, and ignites just as fast. Do not keep gasoline anywhere near open flames, or inside your home as it expel noxious fumes which create a large fire hazard.

This stability also causes other problems in terms of storage time. Gasoline can only be stored for a few months with out some sort of additive.

Diesel

Diesel is normally used for larger wattage generators, as diesel has a higher energy potential than gasoline. Diesel is also more stable then gasoline, and can be kept for up to a year without treatment. It is always a good idea however to filter the fuel if you are keeping it in storage for that long. To filter it, it should be pumped through a high quality diesel fuel filter a few times over to remove any particulate in the fuel as algae, bacteria, and fungus can find a pleasant home in diesel fuel.

Another good thing about diesel, is it’s stability. It is not as volatile as gasoline, which means it is not as much as a fire risk as gasoline, that doesn’t mean you can go and have a smoke next to stored tanks, you should use the same precautions as gasoline.

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LP/Natural gas

Vapor type fuels such as LP and natural gas are commonly used in smaller permanent generators, the advantage they offer is they run much quieter than gasoline and diesel generators. You also have the advantage being able to use LP and Natural gas in grills, stoves, and water heaters if so equipped. Many portable generators are now tri-fuel meaning they can run off of LP, Natural gas, and gasoline. You can also find LP/Natural gas conversion kits for gasoline generators as well.









Safety and Security.

Remember, generators are engines, so the common sense of engines does apply, however I will cover them anyways.



Carbon Monoxide. CO is not a gas to mess around with, it is colorless, tasteless, and odorless. It is lighter than air, meaning it will fill the home from the top up. It can fill a house undetected within a few hours. The symptoms of CO poisoning are fatigue, muscle pains, upset stomach, lethargy, dizziness, and headaches.



Never run a generator inside of your house or garage. Make sure there are no open windows near the generator as exhaust fumes can enter.

If you do decide to use one, keep a few battery powered CO detectors around, you can they can save the life of you and your loved ones.



The fuel also adds an additional amount of hazard. Gasoline fumes are extremely flammable and toxic.



Security.

Portable generators are convenient, however it comes at a price, they are easy to steal.

Generator thefts go up during hurricane season as people want them for themselves or to sell. If you live in a hurricane prone area, and you see those guys on the corner selling them off the back of a truck, you can count of them being stolen.

The frame of portable generators allow for a good amount of security if you use it right. When in use, the generator should always be secured using a heavy steel cable or a heavy chain. The generator should be locked to something permanent and secure. The cable/chain can be run though the frame in such a way that it can’t be undone.

You should use a heavy duty padlock, such as a contractor grade padlock that either has a shroud, or a heavy disk lock. This way the shackle can’t be cut easily with bolt cutters or a hacksaw. If you decide to leave your home for any reason, “either for food/supplies, or to go to work” you should shut the generator off, let it cool down, and move it back inside where you can lock it up.


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THIS IS THE PORTION WHICH HAS CAUSED A BIT OF STRAY.

You should really consider that if someone really wants your generator, you shouldn’t risk your life over it. If your starting it, or refueling it and someone comes up to you with a gun saying “give me the generator” go ahead and give it to them. Your life isn’t worth it.

AS HAVE STATED IN MY REPLY, ALWAYS THINK THE SITUATION BEFOREHAND. YES THERE IS A POSIBILITY THAT YOU WILL TRIUMPH AND KEEP YOUR GENERATOR, THERE IS ALSO THE POSSIBILITY THAT YOU WILL BE KILLED AND LOSE YOUR GENERATOR. THERE IS ALSO THE POSSIBILITY THAT YOU WILL BE KILLED, THEN YOUR FAMILY WILL BE KILLED.
There are too many possibilitys and situations that can arrise from this, you can't just say "I will defend it, nor can you just say I will let it walk." The variations are too great to think of every single possibility. Remeber, at this point, you are responsible not only for yourself, but for those who you are trying to keep safe.
EDITED 6/12/07 09:22
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Buying a generator.

If you decide to buy a generator, there are a few things you should consider. First is where to buy. Don’t bother buying one from the guy on the corner who is selling them out of the back of a u-haul, first is you have no idea if it’s stolen or not, buying a stolen generator means receipt of stolen goods which is illegal. Second, you don’t know the history of the generator. It may look new, and it may have a bagged manual and everything, but who knows, he could have bought the manual from the supplier, and threw a fresh coat of paint on it. You could have a generator that has had over 3000+ hours of use on it and you would never even know it.



Buy one from a reputable dealer.



Your best option is to buy one off season, if you buy on season, there will be a high demand, and not much choice.



Big box stores also sell generators, but they are usually mid range brands. Even Wal-Mart may carry them from time to time. If you buy one, make sure it comes with a warranty.



Wattage. Northern Tool has a pretty comprehensive guide to wattage. Northern Tool Generator Guide

Another decent guide is from the Palm Beach Post's 2007 hurricane guide, Palm Beach County 2007 Hurricane Guide

Brands.

Just about every power equipment company makes generators now, Briggs and Stratton, Troy-Built, Husqvarna, Makita, DeWalt, Craftsman, Honda, Cummings, McCulloch, Mitsubishi, Yamaha, John Deere, even Coleman offers generators. There are many other brands which are primarily generator builders, such as Generac and Guardian, and Kohler



I only have experience with Kohler, Makita, and limited experience with Coleman generators.

Kohler’s tend to be the larger commercial type generators, with a good track record. I personally have a Makita which has served me reliably for three many seasons, and four actual storms, and shows no sign of quiting. I co-worker of mine has a Coleman which he decided to ditch after one storm, he kept blowing the breakers on a 5000 watt generator while only running a fridge and a few lights. The engine decided to quit soon after, he returned it and bought a Generac after.

Maintence.

Like any engine, it needs periodic maintence, you should run it at least once a month to keep everything lubricated. You will also need to change the oil and air filters every so often “the generator’s manual should say how often this should be done” A good idea is to look for one with a spin on automotive type filter, these increase the life of the oil, and reduce wear on the engine.





This is about all I can think of at the moment, it’s about 0500, and my brain is getting close to shutting me down by force.

If I think of anything else that I didn't cover hear, I will add it as a reply to this post.



If anyone can think of anything else to add, feel free to include it.

Some good info here. I have a Honda EU series 2000 Watt that I use on the RV. It runs everything except the AC. One neat thing about the Honda EU series is that you can hook 2 of them up in parallel for double the watts, so if I need AC on a trip I simply borrow my sister's. It only weighs about 50 lbs so it's easy on the back. The best thing about it is that it is quiet. By that I mean that you can stand next to it while it is running at full throttle and carry on a normal conversation. Try that with a Generac!

I found this quote interesting:



I guess one could say the same thing about food, medicine, clothing, or shelter. My position is that I am going to be ready, willing, and hopefully able to defend my survival supplies and gear, and that includes my generator. It will be the thug who will have to decide whether my generator is worth his life. I would hope he would decide it isn't and move on, but if he doesn't I guarantee I'm not going to just give it to him.

I wasen't too clear on that part was I. I had ment something more along the lines of, don't just hand it to them, of course one should way out the situation first. If he has a .22 pointed in your direction, and you have a 12Ga slung across your back, then by all means, drop to the floor and let er rip, you will win. I had ment that if it comes to a point where one of your neighbors was already shot, and someone on the next street was killed for theirs, it may not be a bad idea to let it go. Consider your prep situation, if not having the generator, how much will your life be inconvienced, if it's only a small amount, then you should gauge that to the extent that you defend your supplies.

Depending on the thug, the situation could change. For example someone who is trying to keep his family alive will be in the mindset of keeping himself alive, however a crackhead who has been told by his dealer "find me a generator, and I get you a fix" they may be in the state where they don't care what you have, they don't care how many holes you can put into them or how many holes you have already put into them. They want their fix. Always consider the situation, to aid in the defense stragity.

My take on that whole situation is this. If someone points a gun at you and says 'give me <insert item here>' and you comply and give it to them, then what is there to stop them from saying 'ok, now give me <insert another item here>' or just shoot you for the thrill of it (you never know if they are on drugs or under the influence of something else).
To me its no different than the (bad) advice our parents gave us as children when they told you to hold still ad the bee won't stink you. I did that once and got stung on the eyelid because the bee flew behind my glasses and couldn't get out after I frooze and stood still. From that point on I never stood still. Its the same thing people have been told for years "when the airplane hijacker says do what I say and you won't get hurt" that your supposed to sit there and let them do what they want. History shows that often enough that strategy doesn't work.

As I have always thought/practiced; the best defense is a good offense. Although I too once got a bee behind my glasses, and no matter of offense prevented that little sucker from getting me. I'm glad he died!!!