...The "hardmen" Glockaroo mentions are not weekend warriors and are in the business of pushing the limits of alpinism. Almost every climber and route mentioned are at the top of the difficulty scale not to mention grave V-VI big wall climbs...
And that is the crux of the biscuit, so to speak. People like Billy are willing to give the celebrities a pass because they are "cutting edge" and "pushing the limits". If Billy was truly interested in personal responsibility, not sucking up to the big dogs, then he would condemn the experts MORE than the dabblers.
Billy: who should know better about dealing with Valley weather: the old codger on the Arches or Erik Erikson? Oh, but it's OK for Erikson to take a down sleeping bag up on El Cap because his route is rated A5, not 5.7.
When Lynn Hill forgot to buckle her harness and took a terrible groundfall, nobody in the "elite" community criticized her. It was all "oh poor Lynn; best wishes sweetie". Would BillyM give the same kidglove treatment to a weekend warrior who made the same mistake? Or would the weekender be subject to Billy's snide criticism about how the weekender should stay on the couch or in the rock gym?
Why can't you see the hypocrisy you embrace, Billy?