Here is a way to make your own cook kit from old cans. These cookers work remarkably well for how simple they are. Here's how to do it:
We used to make these "Hobo Stoves" all the time when we were kids because we couldn't afford camping stoves or fuel. Fist get a 5lb coffee can and an old punch style can opener. Punch four or five V shaped holes on the bottom SIDES of the can. (not the bottom itself) Then punch four or five v holes on the top SIDES (open end) of the can. Get some 1/4 inch wire mesh and some tin snips and cut a circle about 2 inches larger than the can diameter. Cut four or five 1 inch slits onto the wire circle towards the center and bend down the edges to make a wire mesh "Lid" for the can. You're done! Set the stove on a flat rock or place where there is no combustible material within a three foot circle. Fill with little pieces of kindling, light and then add larger chunks of hard wood or charcoal. Let the wood burn down until you have a can about 3/4 full of hot coals. Put the mesh "Lid" in place and cook away with a 1lb coffee can "pot" with a removable wire handle. This "stove" will stay hot enough to cook for about an hour depending on the kind of wood you have used. When you're done, let the stove burn out and cool, or douse with water if you're in a hurry. Empty the coals, douse again to be safe. Here's the cool part, you can make a whole "kit" out of old cans that nest together. Take off the wire mesh, put your 1 gallon cook pot inside the stove, put your wire hanger handle inside that, then nest your "cup" made from a soup can inside that. Replace the wire mesh and wrap with an inner tube band and off you go. You can also make a sort of "Frying pan" out of the lid of a 1 gallon paint can...just add a removable wire handle and you can cook eggs and bacon, grilled cheese sandwiches, etc. To toast bread just lay it directly on the wire mesh. To make your soup can "cup" just cut two slits with tin snips down about 2 inches from the top edge and about 3/4 inch apart. Roll this peice down to become the cup handle. Then cut all the way around removing the 2 inch section. To make it comfortable to drink from, roll the drinking edge 1/8 inch with a pair of needle nose pliers or carefully file and sand the edge smooth. These days you can actually get one of the "soup for one" cans and it will have a smooth finished edge but you'll have to solder your handle on or make a wire handle. You can also get an empty tomato juice can that will nest inside a 1 lb coffee can. If you make a wire handle for the juice can you have another sort of crude pot for boiling water to purify or to make tea, cocoa or coffee. You can pinch the sides a little to make a pouring spout. One more item completes your "kit". get a cylinder shaped piece of wood about 1 1/2 inches in diameter and about 10 to 12 inches long. Cut one end smooth and screw into the smooth end a medium sized hardware hook. Mae sure it's large enough and strong enough to hold your largest pot full of water and then some. This will be your pot handler hook for lifting and handling pots of boiling water and such. Sometimes it's nice to suspend your pots an inch or more above the stove surface for simmering, etc. To do this, cut a green sapling 1 inch in diameter and about four feet long and cut a good sized notch in the end to hold your pot. Then cut another sapling with a "Y" shape on top about 1 to 2 feet long. Sick this "Y" shaped holder securely in the ground about 2 or 3 feet from your stove. Then lay your pot holder stick in the "Y" and secure the base of the pot holder stick with a large, heavy rock. You can then hang your pot of stew to simmer, or a pot of water to keep hot without boiling over your "Hobo" stove.

Be sure to thouroghly clean and season all cans in the oven at high temperature before making cooking vessels with them. I prefer several strands of twisted copper wire for pot handles insted of coat hanger wire. For frying pans and cups the stiffer coat hanger wire is great.
Enjoy!
Kix

What are your thoughts on the material in the seam for the can bottom? Is that SnPb (Tin Lead) solder?

I have been saving boxes of the 2 pound coffee cans and the plastic lids from our store. I need to use them.

My concerns have been whether or not any of the materials would be toxic at elevated temperatures. The finish appears to be nickel but any other metals are possible.

Hello Cliff,
I suppose there could be solder in some cans, I really don't know. My opinion is that if there is, it will show up in the seasoning process where you would heat the empty cans in the oven to 450F degrees or higher. If ther is evidence of solder after this step I would discard those cans and look for others.
Anyone olse have aexperience or knowledge of solder in coffee cans?
Kix

Just guessing, but logically I doubt they'd use toxic solder in any container that comes in contact with food. That's just asking for a lawsuit these days...

-Blast

Post 1992 food cans made in or imported into the US are lead free. Pre 1992, there wasn't even any testing!

I just got off the phone with SaraLee, the manufacturer of MJB coffee. They told me that the can is 100% steel. They said that the only down side of using the cans for food is that they would eventually rust. It is totally safe for food. (My cast iron cooking pots also rust.

I used a lot of coffee can cooking gear in the '50's, didn't seem to hurt me much. Of course my hair fell out, but I blame that on my ex, I had a full head of hair before I married her...

An old family recipe calls for baking pumpkin bread in 1 LB coffee cans and I've never had a problem.