I am somewhat picky on blades because I use them so much. S30V aside, what are forum member's opinions on a "non-prybar" drop point style fixed blade in D2 tool steel for survival and general use?

I noticed this one is real reasonable for a Dozier because of CNC grinding and Bob Dozier still does his 60-61 Rc heat treatment himself: That takes the price probably from a comparable previous model (K-DP) from about $435 down to $195 for the Master Hunter.

http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_maker...al_rucarta.html

Also Bob Dozier makes custom Kydex knife sheaths I found out on his site. If he doesn't already have it, you ship the knife to him. That was something nice to know. I don't work for him, yadda yadda yadda

http://www.dozierknives.com/

I prefer the smaller Doziers like the K-1, K-6, K-7 and K-31. I personally have the K-1 and K-31. The horizontal sheath is a very easy carry. That said, the Dozier Master Hunter looks like a very nice knife. Nothing wrong with Doziers CNC knives.

Hey Simon,
Must you have D2? What's your budget? What's your preferred blade length? Do you have some special "hand" considerations (big.small hands)?

I've never handled Ritters Mk3 but I have fondled BM's Griptilian. I like them and Ritter's blade has a nicer belly to it, G-10 scales (instead of BM's plastic), a great looking coating on the blade, and it's S30V steel.... slightly better than D2 I'm told. ($165). I want one, but I'm so cheap I can't muster the courage. I'd get one of these before I ever bought a TOPS or Busse (of the same stye). It kind of looks like a Game Warden. Super-Extra plus for this knife: made by Benchmade.

The Ontario RAT series of knives are Rock SOLID pieces of equipment. I own the RAT-3 which is a 3.5" blade in epoxy-coated D-2 with Micarta scales ($75). I love it and want a RAT-5 in D-2, though I'm tempted to just get their 1095 carbon blade ($80). They have a RAT-7 in D-2 (blades too big for my tastes ($90). The RAT series are Solid....not prybars, and they don;t have quite the fit and finish of a BM Snody....but they're not cheapos...they're excellent knives. If you like 5" blades, it's rumored Ontario may spit out a few RAT-5's in D2 this year....due to people screaming and whinning and such.

ANY BM fixed blade. Sounds to me like you might consider the H&K Snody 14100 or 14150... both in 440C though, I think. I have a Nimravus in 154CM steel that I love, and wouldn't have a problem getting stuck somewhere with it on my belt. BM's CSK fixed blade is nice....154CM steel I'm pretty sure... 5" blade, 3/16" steel, pretty thick handle (3/4") if you like that. The BM-Snody 220 is nice too, smaller than than the CSK. Ahem..... ANY Snody knife is nice...you choose.... just close your eyes and point to one....any one.

Simon, there are a literal ton of good knives out there. Kabar's "Impact" series excites me.... if there was a little more belly to the blade. It look slike they're ready to take their lagging fixed blades to another level....finally. Otherwise they're solid and reasonably priced.

Buck, as always has good knives.

But, I have to beg an answer to this question.... Why just D2? I mean, I like it, but the other steels are just as good...relatively speaking. I mean, it's a stainless, but it will rust (almost) as quick as a high-carbon 1095. It's tough and holds an edge, but no better than ATS-34 or S30V I don;t think. Some say it's hard to sharpen and, to some degree, I can attest to that. I just can;t get it back to hair-shaving sharp on my Sharpmaker, but I suspect that's because of my lack of skill, as opposed to the alloy of D2.

If you're concerned about rust... don;t be. As I said, having D2 steel doesn;t mean the blade won;t rust. Look, NONE of these knives are going to rust. You're just not going to let it happen.

IF it were me, I woudn;t limit myself to D2. Instead, I would look for length of blade and handle, blade geometry, scales material, weight, sheath, manufacturer's reputation, and then, almost last, steel. I say that because all these steels are good, they are each marginally better or worse than the next one at different tasks or criteria.

Well, shoot, Simon. After I posted, I went back up and re-read your initial post where you said you used knives alot and were picky. So I feel a little silly about over-explaining the attributes of those knives. Sorry about that.

Still bugging me though.... why D2? If it's because there's a rave in the knife world about D2 (on affordable knives anyway), then why not S30V? As I said, IF it were me....the alloy makeup comes almost last.

Stretch, I'm a knife knutt. I know what's out there. You apparently don't know anything about Bob Dozier when it comes to D2. Whole different ball game. Do you use any of that big collection of yours to do serious knife work (hours long) as opposed to just having a collection? Do you really know how to sharpen them and appreciate an edge that holds a long time? If you do, you would already know what I was talking about. I do EDC a RSK MkI, in S30V, by the way

P.S. I think the RAT-7 is pretty much considered a sharpened prybar by most. I believe DR considers them so.

I am very satisfied with the D2 knives I have from Gene Ingram. His work is exceptional and his prices are very very good. I have an article on my pile from him over at the outdoors-magazine:

http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=273

His work is stock-removal flat ground as opposed to Dozier's hollow ground. My favorite general purpose is his #6 droppoint and a slightly thinner version can be had in his #30.

This is my standard length #6 with Seacow bone scales:



I highly recommend his work, and agree with your D2 choice. D2 done from an excellent maker is a very good choice.

Thanks for the link, Schwert! I was looking at Dozier's Master Hunter because the cost was reduced by it being his second flat ground (by CNC) knife produced it was said.

Well, again I apologize for not paying attention to your initial post and over-stating in my post.

I'm aware of Dozier's knives. The fact that he treats his own steel doesn't make him unique.... it might make him over-priced. If you want a $400 Dozier FB, get it, then come post how good of a price you got.

I don;t have a "collection". I have 2 nice FB's and a nice folder (plus many cheapies). I use them.

If you're a knife nut (and a sensitive one at that), why would you post in such a manner as to suggest that you just weren't sure about what you wanted to buy? Yes, I know you wanted to "hear from the forum"...... but why? If you know what's out there, why bring it up in here? Why not in the blade forums?

Again I ask..... if you're so knowledgeable about D2....then why must you have it for this new survival knife purchase?

You asked...I responded. Oh...and I apologized for not paying attention.

Not trying to be rude, just objective: I asked, S30V aside, for survival and general purposes, and stated, in my title "non-prybar." I never got any kind of answer from you I was looking for: Look at the blade again. It is well known 60.5 Rc on each blade by Bob Dozier is pretty unique. You are invited to come up with a different response. Your apology accepted.

The RAT-3 in D2 has become my favorite fixed blade.

todd

Do take a good look at Doug's RSK Mk3. I've had mine for several months now and it is a truely fine knife. Just the right size - and not too heavy. I really don't like the big pry bar knives - they are just too heavy to carry around. If needed I'll bring an axe or hatchet instead.



If you haven't already read about the RSK Mk3, you can do so at http://www.equipped.org/rsk_mk3.htm .

Several of the knife forums have a lot of stainless bashing. The truth is that stainless does have its benefits. S30V is apparently what is called semi-stainless - I assume because of a higher carbon content. Any knife will corrode under the right conditions. It is nice to know that the S30V blade will easily survive being wet for a few days without any long-term effects - and this isn't an unlikely event when enjoying the great outdoors.

For the same reason, I tend to avoid leather sheaths - as much as I like leather.

Actually, that's not true: yes you were trying to be rude and you succeeded. I'll live. So will you. I gave you not one example of a "prybar". I did not recommend the RAT7 except to mention it as one of the Ontario series that is made with D2.

Your praise of Dozier's D2 as if it's hardening at over RC61 is a miracle is funny to me. Ok. He does well with D2 steel. Buy it and move on. A person considering a $400+ knife (regardless of how much "CNC" machining brings the price down, hehe I've gotta smile here) does not generally post a "what do you think?" question in a survival forum.... any more than a person considering purchase of a racing motorcycle would query General Motors Corp. Not that folks interested in survival don;t know alot about knives but, rather, why not query in forums specifically dedicated for that?

I offered you an alternative to D2, for at the time I was beginning to think you might not be aware there are other fine steels out there, easily as good as Dozier's for practical purposes, and I suspect now that I was right.

As I said... if you didn;t want a response to your question (read your original post), you should've just bought the knife and came in here to tell us about it. On the other hand, if you wanted a response to your question.....................

Sounds like somebody got his feelings hurt. My apologies to everyone on the forum for triggering his angry response and sorry he had to show it to everyone that way. Regardless of what he thinks, I didn't mean to be rude, just objective.

I do not participate in knife forums. This is the only internet forum I participate in. I simply wanted an appraisal of the knife as a survival/general use knife. The edge-holding is important for me, as S30V doesn't hold it as long as D2 could when treated in this way.

I, for one, accept your apology.

But please SImon, read your initial post (and your response to mine).

Good luck with the knife. You'll certainly be getting a good one. Dozier is well-respected in the blade forums..... both his knives and his presence there. In fact, as with any famous knife-maker, he's almost "exalted".

You guys are giving me a headache!!!

Stretch, they are just words on a monitor screen and you took them the wrong way by taking things too personal <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I'll treat you with kid gloves from now on.

what exactly is meant by the "prybar knivew" term?

I think I know, but not sure.

Is it that the RATs are very thick and heavy?

"Sharpened prybars" to quote DR himself:

"beefier and larger survival/hunting knife or "sharpened prybar" with a 3/16-inch (4.75 mm) to 1/4-inch (6.34 mm) blade that has become popular in recent times and which is prefered by many military-oriented survival instructors."

""sharpened prybar" style knife, like a Becker, RAT or Busse."

http://www.equipped.org/rsk_mk3.htm

For a fixed bladed knife I prefer VG-10. In practice that means a Falkniven. F1 for choice. Fairly tough with a sharp spine that works well with a ferronium rod or a Doan mag block. Easy to sharpen as well.
WM-1 if you need a very small pocket blade or a neck knife.

Simon,

I have a Master Hunter, and it is a fabulous blade. The only thing I can think of that would improve it is some thumb ridges on the spine of the blade. I have a lot of knives, including several mentioned here already, but if you like D2 (and I do) then Dozier is the way to go.

You won't be sorry with your choice.

Greg