One of my favorite kit items, the ' saw in a can ' was first put to use on a fallen Eucalyptus ( gumtree for our OZ members) on the freeway in Santa Barbara. We ( myself and the CHiP officer on scene) were amazed how relatively fast this small tool removed a major hazard. I recently acquired a second unit, and looking it over decided to experiment. There a 63 links, with each tooth roughly edged from stamping. This is the first saw pattern, and served the world well since the romans first large scale engineering projects. later saw patterns differ primarily in the addition of 'rakers.' These are in fact wood chisels. The teeth cut wood fibers and rakers physically break them out of the channel. I improved my saw by SLOWLY resharpening alternate links with a 3 faced file. I then filed the outer edges of the second series near verticle and with a punch and hammer effected a small curve to create rakers. The already impressive performance was markedly improved. I also dipped the ring handles in bright yellow handle paint, that rubbery product that improves comfort and visibility. A final dressing of oil and I was set. The tough paint has never alowed any rusting, but like epoxy coated knives can impair optimum cutting. Performance in softwoods has improved, though I probably spent as much time retouching the saw as any potential savings <img src="/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I've seen those saws in magazines but was always skeptical. I guess it had to do with my experiences with wire saws which cut great if you use them on cheese but break on the first pull if used on wood. After reading this I think I might give one of these a try. I'm always looking for something to make getting walking sticks easier. This sounds like it might be the ticket.

Have you (or anyone here) ever used one of those things on dry (as in harder than green) wood? I have heard that they cut dry wood as well as green, but an always looking for another opinion before I plunk down my hard earned bucks...

Wire saws were a british invention for RAF escape and evasion in WW2. I believe they were sewn into the uniform along with concealed button compasses in- buttons. As such, they were meant for cutting through fencing, walls etc of cured timber. You just have to be carefull using them on wet wood. There are surgical bone wire saws from 3M you might try. The saw in a can works about on par with any other saw in dried wood. It is by nature going to be more difficult. But I've managed it. I just go a little slower and clear the kerf periodically.

"...The saw in a can works about on par with any other saw in dried wood.."

OK, thanks...

Just yesterday I was re-reading through Doug's sections on survival gear. I guess I hadn't noticed this comment in his comparison between the hand chain saws and folding saws before:

"Folding saws (Browning, Gerber, Sierra etc.), bow saws (Sven, Sawvivor, Pack Saw, Wyoming, etc.) or the BuckSaw are not nearly as good as the Chain Saw style saws for taking down larger trees or cutting logs and they weigh quite a bit more and are bulkier as well. However, they are much better than wire saws. "

I would have never thought that to be the case. I bought a Pocket ChainSaw a while back but never got a chance to try it out. On our next camping trip I'll need to pull that out and give it a try.

Ken K.

I classify them as worthless. They look good in the pack. If you ever need them, you are screwed. I have not seen a situation that a cheap folding pruning saw did not cut faster than the chain-saw-in-a-can.

When the Swedish saw Sven was bought by Snap On Tool and imported into the US, they were renamed Bahco. They make a series of professional saws that are bested by no one. If you compare the teeth offset on the Bahco with the Japanese versions, you will see the difference.

Bahco has a complete line from a 36" bow saws down to a folding pruning saw. Pick the models that suit your needs. Their multi purpose Laplander which has an 8" blade will out cut the pocket chain saw hands down. It is also usable for meat, bone, and wood. The UPC code for the Laplander is 7 311518 172367.

We carry at all times in each vehicle -

1. Chain saw
2. 36" bow saw with multiple application blades
3. 16" Fixed handle pruning saw
4. 8" Folding pruning saw

Remember to have the equipment to move the trees once cut. At least one heavy duty rope and pully and anchoring chain is a must.

FWIW, I've had some good success w/ wooden wedges and saws. You can easily shape some wedges and drive them in w/ a wood batton. This opens up the cut and elimintes binding on bigger pieces of wood. You can also use wood wedges to split large pieces of wood.

Adam

I couldn;t agree more about the quality of the Bahco line of tools.... but really, I'd prefer a chainsaw... Stihl 18" would fit the bill. ....And, if I was building a shelter, I'd probably want a Milwaukee worm-drive saw with me or at least 2-1/4 horse Skilsaw.

Problem is, they're not practical to carry in my pack. Now, I haven;t tried this, I just know tools well enough to know they won't fit (or if they do, there'll be little room for anything else). Plus, I know the generator I'll need to run them won;t fit!

Seriously though, when I'm camping I carry a folding pruning saw even though we rarely use it. It's there if I need it.

BUT, every time I logon to ETS, I always figure we're talking survival ... with little if any luxury...So, the wire pull saws have their place. If it breaks (which it eventually will), you can still make it work depending on where the break occurs. I like the idea that they're light and small enough to fit anywhere.

If we go in part way with a Yamaha Rhino, we have the chain saw and the whole camp. The folding Bahco is about the only thing useful for the individual packs.

If we are using a Llama pack string, the 36" bow saws work well in their packs.

Many of the outfitters that use horses and mules do carry chainsaws.