I see the Sportsmans Guide has these in their December catalog and I just ordered one.
Any opinions on it?

Soviet/ Russian forces have a meager selection of blades. There is a miserable slip folder in the kits and true machete of squared form. The universal blade is the AK bayonet, which is infamous for not holding an edge. There is a spetsnatz combat knife and thats about it. Into this sad selection the machete was designed. It holds the same philosophy as the Hood ATAX, Tom Brown TRACKER and Janowskie RANGER on a largerscale. The handle is a squared plastic hollow affair held on with a large screw. Sometimes this works loose , but the plastic and screw are robust I haven't heard of any failures. Metallurgy is plain vanila carbon. The various saw, blade and chopper edges work well within the limitations of the tool size. It makes a good prybar and small shovel ( but be aware of that handle attachment.) ironically, as a machete as named it's horrid. Machetes should be lightwieght, springy affairs with reach. Stiff machetes, ie our own US issue and The german Linder that closely follows Martindale paratrooper lines are poor performers. Multiple this 10 fold with this brute. It's very good at batoning. The danger of this tool is the size. Some of the operations, ie chopping are akin to using Kukris and short hatchets. Be VERY CAREFULL you don't chop into yourself. As a 'do it all' tool I've found it interesting and functional.It's popularity seems to lie with horsepackers, ORV and of course MIG pilots- all people who don't lug it around on a hip daily. The first importers no longer carry it. A search of SG failed to show it. How much did you pay?

Item #NX6KW 113958. I paid $49.97 as a club member.

Interesting survial story relating to the spetznaz. <img src="/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Adam

Can anyone suggest a good machete? I do a lot of bushwhacking through thorny vines and I'm thinking a machete might be the right tool for that job.

Oh, preferably something under $30

-Blast

Blast,
I own a machete, std. military issue, but I've never used it for hacking vines. In fact, any more, I never take it camping. Strike one.
There is a pretty nice one I like at Cabelas, but it costs more than $30. Strike two.
If you're interested, the Cabelas machete is $39, has a 17"-long slim blade and a Kydex sheath. # HG-51-5631.
They have another one that's $39. #HG-51-7381.

Little more than $30 but it works for me

http://www.actiongear.com/cgi-bin/tame.e...2Fresults%2Etam

I've heard bad things about the US Military machete (thanks, CK!). Anyone have real-world experience with the Cold Steel Latin Machete or some other South American machete? Or maybe just tell me what sort of things I should look for in a jungle-ready machete. Thick/thin blade? Heavy/light? Stiff/Flexible? I'm mainly looking at hacking my was through thorny, 1/4 inch thick vines and dead underbrush.

Thanks.
-Blast

I am amused how traditional tools get 'improved' by western makers at 10 times the price and perform miserably. Martindale in the UK makes a very nice machete in some interesting patterns, many of which have been reviewed exaustively on several knife and outdoor websites. David Cutsforth in Tillamook Oregon is a favoured dealer ( search for cutsforth knives and he will pop up.) My favourite are TRAMONTINAs from Brazil. Machetes should have plenty of reach and a light flexible blade. All will require some sharpening, but on a machete and it's use this is to easy. The metal will readilly roll, dent and get dull. It just as readily responds to steeling and resharpening. Parangs from Southeast Asia are a similar tool. There is an australian company selling many styles, but at a premium due to the artistic work. I use the classic long cutlass version seen in countless B movies.

I have a Tramontina also and I like it. I have also used the Cold Steel Kukri machete and it is pretty good too. I gave one to a friend and he even chops branches with it no problem.

http://www.coldsteel.com/97kms.html

The Magnum Kukri Machete looks like it would be quite suitable for cutting vines.

I have a mil std 18" machete made by Ontario & plastic sheath with the hooks for the WWII style pistol belt. I think that it works well for cutting brush & trimming bushes around the yard. Years ago, it was about $12 for the machete & 11 for the sheath. The blade is .133", slightly over 1/8" thick. No saw back. The length is a compromise between weight for chopping power & lightness to reduce arm fatigue. Cold Steel has a good selection, but the blade thickness is 2mm. Mine is 3.35mm. I wonder what the decrease in blade thickness would do. Does anyone own a Cold Steel machete? I thought about buying one & would be interested in your experience with it.

The thinner blade makes it more prone to flexing and bending. For grasses and brush it is good. For heavier chopping, the LTC Kukri is much better.

My friend uses his to chop the branches of his mango tree though and he loves the kukri machete.

The thinner blade makes it more prone to flexing and bending. The edge rolls more too. For grasses and brush it is good. For heavier chopping, the LTC Kukri is much better.

My friend uses his to chop the branches of his mango tree though and he loves the kukri machete.

I bought one of these years ago from Sovietski.com.
The sheath was a seperate purchase-so you may want to check with Sportsmans Guide and make sure the sheath is included-just got the catalog today and it's in there but no mention of a sheath.
I've only used it once while camping-it was okay,nothing special.
I did notice that the coating on the blade(at least on mine)also covers the cutting edge-still I coat the whole thing with tuff-cloth as it remains in my trunk.Hopefully it isn't rusting where I can't see it.

As a college student I spent a summer clearing lines and pulling chain for a forester. I used a machete everyday in the Washington and Idaho woods. At first I tried a hachet
and then a pole axe, but for overhead, and upper body chopping, a machete
is the way to go. If you miss and it bounces off your shin it won't bruise or
worse like an axe. It is much lighter to carry than an axe too.

I used a new $4 military surplus one in 1978 and it worked fine.

Points to remember.
1 always use a wrist strap so the thing doesn't go flying off at someone
when your hand tires or you get distracted mid swing.
2 always wear thick gloves when sharpening it.
3 They are designed to slice on the pull, don't just try to beat something
in half as if you have a splitting maul. You can easily cut a wrist sized
branch with one swing when you figure that out.
4 use a file then a round stone to sharpen. I liked them to be as sharp
as a knife so it can shave the hairs off your arm. On the other hand it
doesn't have to be particularly even, a few small nicks don't hurt anything.

DO