Do you have a can openner that cuts the side of the crimp? That will work best. A conventional, top cutting can opener might leave somethign that feels smooth, but your gear will take a beating from it. So will your lip if you have to use it. Also, with the side cutter, you get to keep the top as a lid. Better boil time, you can use it to fry minnows, maggots and grasshopers, and it will improve the water resistance of your kit inside.

(And if you make a two part kit, using this and a smaller can, the lid let's you make a double boiler type affair, so you can cook/boil water, and heat water from your bottle for tea.)

Try to find one the plastic pet food saver things, that go on top of a can of pet food. If you picked the right size soup can, one of those (with or without the saved lid) will give you decent water resistance. With the lid, you also get a small space for stashing things like snare wire between the two lids. Without those, if you have the metal lid, use two wide rubber bands to keep the lid down.

Slip it into a pair of quart sized freezer bags, and the entire thing fits happily into a mil surplus pouch designed to hold three M-16/C7 mags, or a number of digital camera pouches. Very little bulk, very little weight. (I've never built one of these or anything....)

Really good is to have this on you, and have in your kit a hobo cooker made from a coffee can in your bigger bag. Run two pieces of stiff wire (I killed a coat hanger and used it's bones) across it. That will set the first couple of inches of the soup can into the stove, and things will cook nice and fast. If you are using an methynol stove, poke some holes in the coffee can at the right height and bring a second set of wires, and if you've made your air holes in the hobo stove the right size, it will look like you are cooking over a rocket once it's warmed up.