Given that Redflare has over 90 post's at the time of writing, I don't think that there is an issue with that. He would have been banned by now if there was.
I personnally don't have an issue with a retailer asking question's about kit and prefered items. Or giving discounts. Anything else is between him and Doug.

As someone said, there has been more than one thread about this in the past - and Candlepower forums covers this as well. I have both, but I'm NOT worried about super long term - and my AA/AAA/C/D cell lights are for that - for my EDC, the CR123 lights are generally smaller, lighter, and being LED, give me enough runtime

1) Coin cells are a) to help you find your other lights and b) to make sure you have no excuse not to have some light on you at all times.
2) Lithiums come in AA an AAA formats as well and (with some minor limitations) have the benefits of both worlds (excluding price).
3) There are plenty of multi-level 123A lights which can give you large amounts of runtime -- plenty to last through most emergencies, even with only a modest stock of spare batteries. Look at the HDS U60, SF U2, SF L1, SF L2, SF A2, etc.
4) Regardless of what format battery you choose you should have a stash of batteries to last you through the emergency you are planning. Don't assume you are going to drop by the store and pick up some batteries when there is a hurricane on. They'll be out of stock. :-s

Personally, most of my emergency stores are lithium, 123A *and* AA. Their ability to store for long periods make them ideal for this task IMO. Of course, I have several multi-level lights including a multi level 2x123A headlamp (1W LED).

-john


A sample of multi level 123A lights:
Nuwai TM-301X-3
2x123A multi level headlamp (1W LED)
HDS "EDC" Ultimate 60
SF L1
SF U2
Pierce M10
SF A2
SF L2

Based on my experience with hurricanes, I'd say that D cells are in the highest demand. All those big Maglites and cheap lights clear those out. AA cells clear out pretty quick too. When there isn't a D or AAA cell to be found, there are usually a few C cells and lots of AAA cells still in stock. I've never really looked for 9 volt or lithium cells during a hurricane panic buyout, but my guess is that 9 volts sell out quicker than lithiums.

Personally, I've tried to standardize on AA cells and have several dozen AA alkalines and almost two dozen NiMH rechargables. I've sort of broken that lately with a cheap LED headlamp and an Arc that take AAAs, but they're easy on the batteries. I've got an assortment of other cell types (and flashlights to match them), but I don't depend on any of them.

Yes - my EDC main light is the EDC60U - NICE light - of course, I also have the ARC LS first run, an Arc AA and Arc AAA in my EDC kit - yeah, I EDC 4 lights (and sometimes a 9P with the HOLA too)

Today - just being paranoid, I threw an extra couple of CR123as in the kit - the fit really well in an Advantix film can

Well, I'm always paranoid... HDS EDC U85 w/2x123A tailpack and 6x123a spares in my pocket. :-) And of course primary level adjusted to 60 lm for even longer runtime. I'm not overly concerned about running out of light! :-)

-john

I've tried to standardize my lights. What I wound up with is less standardization than I thought I had:

Surefire G2 (123 cells)
Mini Mag w/Nite Ize LED (AA cells)
Inova X1 (AA cell)
Petzl Tikka Plus (AAA cells)
3D Cell Mag Lite (D cells)
Photon Lights (button cells)

Between regular alkalines, rechargeable NiMH, and lithiums, by far I have lots of AA cells. Fewer AAA cells, even fewer 123 cells, and no spares for D cells or button cells at this time. (Shame on me; I need to change that.)

In a way, having flashlights that are powered differently boosts your odds of having at least something to use in an emergency. On the other hand, the various types of batteries are just one more thing to stock up on and tougher to rotate stock.

That HDS "EDC Ultimate" sure looks pretty sweet... <img src="/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

The only CR123 cells I have consist of a 12 pack I bought for my Surefire lights. I honestly don't use the Surefire lights much because they are simply too bright. I stock up on AA and AAA because the bulk of my survival gear runs on them. In that stock I have both lithium and alkaline AA & AAA batteries. All my AA and AAA lights are regulated and can use either Alkaline or Lithium. One light loses its hazardous area cert when used with lithium batteries, but the light will actually run longer. I also have NiMH rechargables and a solar charging unit so keeping lights and radios running is not an issue. The fresh alkaline batteries in my 3-D mag-lite and Streamlight Tasklight will be all the D's I need short-term and since both are now LED, they run a long time.

In an emergency I might buy more batteries if they were available, but those would be for neighbors.

As most people mentioned, lithium powered lights have an advantage over regular AA, C or D in terms of shelf life and performance. If you were going to store a light away for any length of time, I wouldn't trust regular alkalines, especially if the temperature varies widely (like in a car).

For high power lights, lithiums are the only way to go. Alkalines just can't supply the energy needed for high performance in a small package. Recharables are an option, but the shelf life of those are even worse than alkalines.

If you're worried about longer term emergencies, I still think the advantages of lithiums are worth it. Most likely, for longer emergencies over 5 days, you won't need really powerful, bright lights. Simple low powered LED lights should be sufficient in most cases, and most any of the LED lights should have enough battery life to get your through it if you use it sparingly. Plus, if you're in that kind of situation where you're without electricity for that long, I wouldn't rely on which battery is most available, most likely ALL batteries will be gone. So it really doesn't matter what you have, if you dont' have it at the beginning, you won't be able to buy it. I do keep a few AA maglites w/ LED conversions around, but that mostly because I know I can scavange batteries from around the house if I need to. Most all of my other lights that I use are CR123 powered because I buy them in bulk and store it, and it actually a lot cheaper than using lithium AA's.

Actually, I have lights for almost every type and size of battery available, so I'm not too worried about finding the right battery, I will always have something that can be used. But unless you want to start up a huge collection of flashlights (very addicting) then maybe that's not an option for you.

I'm a CPF regular and have lost interest in 123-powered lights. The Fenix L1p is my favorite now, 1AA powered (usually) by an AA NiMH cell. The new Sanyo Eneloop and Amondo/Titanium Enduro cells more or less solve the NiMH shelf life problem except in cold weather. And there's always L91 lithium AA cells (unfortunately Batterystation discontinued their alternative). As for cost per unit energy:

Batterystation CR123A, 3.0 volts, 1400 mAH, $1.00 = $.24/WH
Energizer L91, 1.7 volts 2900 mAH, $1.75 = $.35/WH not that much worse than 123's
Sanyo Eneloop AA, 1.25 volts 2000 mAH, $3.00 = $1.20/WH (but rechargeable)
Sanyo HR-3U 2700 mAH 1.25V $3.00 = $.8/WH (limited shelf life, rechargeable)
Generic NiMH AA, 1.25V 2000 mAH $1.00 = $.40/wh (limited shelf life, rechargeable)
Generic alkaline AA = 1.3 volts (average over runtime) 2500 mAH, $0.25 = $.08/WH (reasonable shelf life, not suitable for high powered lights)

In practice I use NiMH cells in practically everything, with $/WH close to zero since I recharge them. I'm using mostly Sanyo 2500 mAH HR-3U ($2.50 each) but am probably going to slowly migrate to Eneloops for most purposes. I do have a bunch of alkalines and lithium AA's around just in case. And I can charge the NiMH cells from 12 volts in my car, if the regular power goes out. But I usually have some charged NiMH in a camera or something that I can scrounge from.

Finally, don't forget larger cells like D cells, still very useful and cost effective for some purposes.