Hi Dave,<br><br>Had a 1972 Series IIA, 88 SWB / 2.25 Liter Petrol / LHD / 3 door, for several years and for the most part enjoyed it immensely. <br><br>PTO Capstan winch, tropical roof, custom roof rack, back bench seats, rear tire carrier, rear pintle hook, heavy duty bumpers front & rear, lift handles and lift rings all around, locking front hubs, and a hand crank for starting the engine when needed (this works great with the original generator, however a buddy changed his 1968 108" LWB to an alternator and was out of luck unless his battery had at least 5 or 6 volts remaining to provide exciter current/voltage to the alternator). <br><br>FWIW alternators need a "tickler voltage" to start providing power, generators have built in magnets that do this. <br><br>I installed an electronic Optical Type / Capacitive Discharge Ignition System to replace the points. Around town, I could count on 11 MPG, after the ignition system I got 12-13 MPG. A plus was that it was easily changed back several years later when the CDI failed. <br><br>Cross country driving averaged about 22-24 MPG on the highways with 1 or 2 stops between refilling the tank. This was in Florida, mostly flat land, YMMV.<br><br>Sadly, it had been rather well abused before I purchased it and although it was a great vehicle, I was saddled with a couple of problems that dampened my joy. <br><br>Looking back at it now, I think that a big issue was the fact that this was about the last year that they were imported into the US, when I got it around 1978, parts were exceedlingly hard to come by. <br><br>For what ever reasons, it kept going through exhaust manifolds. For a little 2.25 liter engine, they were very expensive, the cheapest one (of four that I finally went through) was about $186 in 1979 US dollars, plus shipping and worse than that was the fact that the parts place was happy to order it, but did not inform me (nor did naive me ask before placing the order *rueful shrug*) that they only placed orders in LARGE GROUPS that took 3 months to compile until they could fill a sea freight container. Most expensive manifold ran about $350 US in 1983 dollars.<br><br>By way of reference, domestic cars with 350 to 400 CID engines would have gotten change back for replacing their manifolds at the prices I was saddled with and the delivery times were better too.<br><br>Replaced the radiator (had it rebuilt for about $125 US in 1982).<br><br>Replaced the hydraulic clutch, pressure plate, Throw out bearing for a nominal amount all things considered. Also ditto all the wheel brakes and the transmission mounted emergency brake. <br> When doing this, try to get the heavy duty linings. Especially considering your plans to travel remotely. You can get the lining in raw stock and drill out the old and install new rivets if you have the tools and materials. In a pinch, this can be done by hand in the boonies.<br><br>Get away from the castor oil in the brakes/clutch systems. Best bet is to go with silicone based fluids. This recalled changing the various rubber hoses and gaskets etc. but is well worth it IMHO.<br><br>Went through several rear axles. Finally found some in Sarasota FL for about $90 each.<br><br>Eventually became aware of Atlantic British Parts who started importing parts into the states, had several orders with them and was happy. <br><br>They (for a while anyway) had organized Rover excursions and group meetings around the NE US and a few other areas, had a nice newsletter as well. I don't know if they are still around. It's been a while. <br><br>I know that the US frame of reference may not do you much good, but at least it is a field report from a similar vehicle. I got it with about 60K miles on it and finally sold it with about 95K miles. When it ran, it ran good, parts and delivery were my big hold up. <br><br>Subsequently Land Rovers were imported (guess they finally decided the US market was big enough to justify putting in the required emissions stuff which I understood to be the stumbling block in getting newer models into the US).<br><br>Now they (new) run around $40K plus. I got mine (used) for $2K in 1978 and sold it around 1986 for about the same. Kind of wish I had kept it, but kids, mortgage etc. change ones per$pective on such things.<br><br>If I were able to do it again, I would immediately add (if it is still made) the Fairey Overdrive. This would have provided about 12% better mileage and add several more forward and reverse speeds.<br><br>Also add second tank, spare axle, possibly change to a header type of exhaust versus the problematic manifolds that I dealt with. <br><br>(And yes, before anyone asks, we checked the flatness of the engine block and manifold with straight edges before installing the manifolds. The engine and tranny mounting bushings were replaced and the exhaust system was strictly stock. We also tried installing them with and without manifold gaskets as well and also replaced the mounting studs, finally coming to the conclusion that this engine was born under a "bad star" *another rueful grin and shoulder shrug*)<br><br>Had I kept it, it is EXTREMELY LIKELY that I would have replaced the engine with the alum. block V8 that British Leyland got from Chrysler. <br><br>The little 2.25 L engine struggled at anything above 55 MPH and the overdrive was widely recognized as addressing this issue.<br><br>For the difference in fuel costs, I feel that the V8 would have helped more, and allowed installation of an air-conditioner as well. (>SMILE< My apologies to the purists out there for such sacrilige as putting an a/c in a LR, it gets too hot in Fla. to go without >and I was raised here.)<br><br>I would also consider getting a spare axle or two and placing them in PVC pipe and securing them in an out of way place. Take care if you consider underneath the vehicle, while out of the way, you may have terrain considerations that make it hard to get at them in the event of a breakdown.<br><br>Get several LED type flashlghts and possibly replace interior & small exterior lamps with LED's as well. When you're stopped and reading, staying inside or whatever, they will not run down the battery(ies) as fast as the incandescents will. <br><br>A second tank was always on the wish list and I had some cardboard templates that I made for a tank to fit inbetween the frame underneath. This would have added about 15 US gallons.<br><br>Skid plate(s) are worthy of serious consideration.<br><br>The jack that it came with was workable, but I would get one of the "Hi-Lift" jacks, they are about 50" tall and have other uses as well.<br><br>As you appear to be dealing with diesel, I would suggest getting the biggest and most efffective fuel filters around, and making sure that you have fuel dryer/algecide on hand as well as tools & spares for any and all repairs anticipated.<br><br>Aside from the above, it would be basically the normal common sense items, making sure that the dust boots are new/good condition, checking hoses, fittings, and doing a bunch of "what iffing" type of thinking to try and cover all the bases. <br>As ADE noted in his forum posting today, you can't cover all the bases. <br><br>Hope this helps.<br><br>Regards, Comanche7