I am busy preparing for an overland expedition from Cambridge(UK) to Cape town which will hopefully get under way in the second half of 2004. At the moment I am rebuilding a 1969 Series iiA Land Rover. <br>As this will be the longest journey we wil undertake overland I was wondering if there is anyone out there who could offer advice and tips on vehicle preperation and other Ideas.<br>The only criteria is that it has to be kept as simple as possible which is why I chose the series 2 landy as it contains zero gimmiks or accessories.As I am from Africa and have done military service so hints on African travel and dangers will be wasted, no offence meant.<br>All comments, ideas and information will be much apreciated.<br>Regards<br>Dave

Well I'm not going to give you any points on the travel in Africa but I will tell you how I outfitted my truck for my journey from New York City thru the US to Belize up to Canada and than back to NY (total about 20000 miles).<br><br>I was told to mount two skid plates but I opted for a rear one only. I wanted full access to the engine without having had to remove a 200 lbs part. I wanted rear one to protect the fuel tank and fuel lines and it did come handy.<br><br>I took two spares and mounted military tires on all my wheels. Not really the most comfortable and the quietest or economical but I did the entire trip on the same set of wheels.<br><br>I was about to get air intake professionally modified but I did it by my self with a rubber tube leading from under my windshield. But half way thru the trip hitting mostly rain and cool weather (no dust) I took it apart. I just checked on the air filter whenever I opened the hood.<br><br>My radiator got mesh wire covering and same went for lights. <br><br>I mounted a heavy duty alternator and extra battery. On the outside I welded a rack for two 20 liter fuel cans. I changed the timing belt. <br><br>But the difference is that my truck (Jeep Cherokee) has an automatic transmission so clutch wasn't a problem but shifting sensor was which I blew up in the Rockies and had to go to the mechanic shop to get it changed.<br><br>Extra parts went from fuel/oil/air filters, fuses, bulbs, spark plugs and cables, extra fuel lane, 500 different bolts and nuts, duct tape :), set of plugs and caps, 1 case of oil, break and power steering fluid, rubber tubing of different diameters and clamps plus good set of tools which I guarded like crazy. I had put in brand new set of breaks before I left and made sure I know which pads my car takes in case I need to get them from the dealer on the road. I also took a tube of silicone and can of liquid weld in case I needed to modify the pipes. All this was sitting nicely under my folded rear seat and never bothered anyone until ready to use. Good jack and wide plank (12 by 36) also made its way in. <br><br>Rest of the car was left untouched (I had a roll cage welded in way before for my off road racing) . I mounted a spider web type net under the roof for my clothes, rain gear and misc articles. I only had one backpack that fit perfectly on the passenger side plus tent and sleeping bag that was too warm. I mounted a lock on my glove compartment to put my camera gear in there. I did the same to small locker by my seat. I had two cut off switches: one inside under my steering wheel column and one by the battery. Poor mans antitheft device but it worked. I also learned how to hot wire my car and carried a spare keys next to my dog tags. And standard things such as extended passport and international driving license. That would be it. <br><br>Heh need a driving partner? 25% of the entire fun is actually preparing for the trip.<br><br><br>Matt

I imagine part of my answer would depend on your route and other details...<br><br>I am not familiar enough with the mechanicals of Land Rovers to offer any meaningful advice or tips - don't even know where the "weak points" are, although I could hazard a guess that perhaps the electrical system merits close scrutiny. You'll be using a diesel engine, I assume?<br><br>I put about 12,000 km on a commercial vehicle (small pickup truck) in East Africa several years ago. My opinion is that I had a higher incidence rate of flat tires than I would have expected in North America, but most of my travel was on tracks through thornbrush country, and indeed, thorns were the most frequent cause of flats, followed distantly by sharp rock fragments. If I did not have readily available support services, I would give due consideration to being able to repair and re-inflate garden-variety punctures. Two spares, of course. I learned the hard way to wear leather gloves when inspecting punctured tires... I wince at the memory.<br><br>Rather than getting iffy advice from me... I'm quite interested in hearing what preparations you are making for your trek. I look forward to reading about it - please tell us more!<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Tom

Try this website<br>http://www.aroundtheworld1999.com/rovers_content.htm

Hi Dave,<br><br>Had a 1972 Series IIA, 88 SWB / 2.25 Liter Petrol / LHD / 3 door, for several years and for the most part enjoyed it immensely. <br><br>PTO Capstan winch, tropical roof, custom roof rack, back bench seats, rear tire carrier, rear pintle hook, heavy duty bumpers front & rear, lift handles and lift rings all around, locking front hubs, and a hand crank for starting the engine when needed (this works great with the original generator, however a buddy changed his 1968 108" LWB to an alternator and was out of luck unless his battery had at least 5 or 6 volts remaining to provide exciter current/voltage to the alternator). <br><br>FWIW alternators need a "tickler voltage" to start providing power, generators have built in magnets that do this. <br><br>I installed an electronic Optical Type / Capacitive Discharge Ignition System to replace the points. Around town, I could count on 11 MPG, after the ignition system I got 12-13 MPG. A plus was that it was easily changed back several years later when the CDI failed. <br><br>Cross country driving averaged about 22-24 MPG on the highways with 1 or 2 stops between refilling the tank. This was in Florida, mostly flat land, YMMV.<br><br>Sadly, it had been rather well abused before I purchased it and although it was a great vehicle, I was saddled with a couple of problems that dampened my joy. <br><br>Looking back at it now, I think that a big issue was the fact that this was about the last year that they were imported into the US, when I got it around 1978, parts were exceedlingly hard to come by. <br><br>For what ever reasons, it kept going through exhaust manifolds. For a little 2.25 liter engine, they were very expensive, the cheapest one (of four that I finally went through) was about $186 in 1979 US dollars, plus shipping and worse than that was the fact that the parts place was happy to order it, but did not inform me (nor did naive me ask before placing the order *rueful shrug*) that they only placed orders in LARGE GROUPS that took 3 months to compile until they could fill a sea freight container. Most expensive manifold ran about $350 US in 1983 dollars.<br><br>By way of reference, domestic cars with 350 to 400 CID engines would have gotten change back for replacing their manifolds at the prices I was saddled with and the delivery times were better too.<br><br>Replaced the radiator (had it rebuilt for about $125 US in 1982).<br><br>Replaced the hydraulic clutch, pressure plate, Throw out bearing for a nominal amount all things considered. Also ditto all the wheel brakes and the transmission mounted emergency brake. <br> When doing this, try to get the heavy duty linings. Especially considering your plans to travel remotely. You can get the lining in raw stock and drill out the old and install new rivets if you have the tools and materials. In a pinch, this can be done by hand in the boonies.<br><br>Get away from the castor oil in the brakes/clutch systems. Best bet is to go with silicone based fluids. This recalled changing the various rubber hoses and gaskets etc. but is well worth it IMHO.<br><br>Went through several rear axles. Finally found some in Sarasota FL for about $90 each.<br><br>Eventually became aware of Atlantic British Parts who started importing parts into the states, had several orders with them and was happy. <br><br>They (for a while anyway) had organized Rover excursions and group meetings around the NE US and a few other areas, had a nice newsletter as well. I don't know if they are still around. It's been a while. <br><br>I know that the US frame of reference may not do you much good, but at least it is a field report from a similar vehicle. I got it with about 60K miles on it and finally sold it with about 95K miles. When it ran, it ran good, parts and delivery were my big hold up. <br><br>Subsequently Land Rovers were imported (guess they finally decided the US market was big enough to justify putting in the required emissions stuff which I understood to be the stumbling block in getting newer models into the US).<br><br>Now they (new) run around $40K plus. I got mine (used) for $2K in 1978 and sold it around 1986 for about the same. Kind of wish I had kept it, but kids, mortgage etc. change ones per$pective on such things.<br><br>If I were able to do it again, I would immediately add (if it is still made) the Fairey Overdrive. This would have provided about 12% better mileage and add several more forward and reverse speeds.<br><br>Also add second tank, spare axle, possibly change to a header type of exhaust versus the problematic manifolds that I dealt with. <br><br>(And yes, before anyone asks, we checked the flatness of the engine block and manifold with straight edges before installing the manifolds. The engine and tranny mounting bushings were replaced and the exhaust system was strictly stock. We also tried installing them with and without manifold gaskets as well and also replaced the mounting studs, finally coming to the conclusion that this engine was born under a "bad star" *another rueful grin and shoulder shrug*)<br><br>Had I kept it, it is EXTREMELY LIKELY that I would have replaced the engine with the alum. block V8 that British Leyland got from Chrysler. <br><br>The little 2.25 L engine struggled at anything above 55 MPH and the overdrive was widely recognized as addressing this issue.<br><br>For the difference in fuel costs, I feel that the V8 would have helped more, and allowed installation of an air-conditioner as well. (>SMILE< My apologies to the purists out there for such sacrilige as putting an a/c in a LR, it gets too hot in Fla. to go without >and I was raised here.)<br><br>I would also consider getting a spare axle or two and placing them in PVC pipe and securing them in an out of way place. Take care if you consider underneath the vehicle, while out of the way, you may have terrain considerations that make it hard to get at them in the event of a breakdown.<br><br>Get several LED type flashlghts and possibly replace interior & small exterior lamps with LED's as well. When you're stopped and reading, staying inside or whatever, they will not run down the battery(ies) as fast as the incandescents will. <br><br>A second tank was always on the wish list and I had some cardboard templates that I made for a tank to fit inbetween the frame underneath. This would have added about 15 US gallons.<br><br>Skid plate(s) are worthy of serious consideration.<br><br>The jack that it came with was workable, but I would get one of the "Hi-Lift" jacks, they are about 50" tall and have other uses as well.<br><br>As you appear to be dealing with diesel, I would suggest getting the biggest and most efffective fuel filters around, and making sure that you have fuel dryer/algecide on hand as well as tools & spares for any and all repairs anticipated.<br><br>Aside from the above, it would be basically the normal common sense items, making sure that the dust boots are new/good condition, checking hoses, fittings, and doing a bunch of "what iffing" type of thinking to try and cover all the bases. <br>As ADE noted in his forum posting today, you can't cover all the bases. <br><br>Hope this helps.<br><br>Regards, Comanche7

You've probably already done this but a visit to WHSmiths might prove useful, There's always a good selection of LR mags which always have the kind of info you're looking for.<br><br>Wishing I had the time/money to do the same as you.<br><br>Justin

I suggest, as others, to get a Hi-Lift jack and external mount. This can be used to lift, compress, winch... truely multi-purpose. Combined with some logging chain and cable, you can winch 7000lbs in 40" installments. Second, consider a Max-tool kit. This is a shovel/pick/hoe/rake etc. combination tool that is a favorite with 4 wheelers. I believe that it was designed for forest-fire workers and it's quality is absolutely first rate. I have often seen racks designed to hold these two items.<br>If you still have room, a large manual winch/ hoist could be a valuable addition. I have a "More Power Puller" come-a-long made by Avenir. This is a serious device and weighs about 45 lbs, has 40' of 5/16" cable. It looks more or less like a regular come-a-long but 5 times the size. It weighs alot, but not as much as an electric, hydraulic or PTO winch and is human powered... They are often advertised in the back of off-road maazines...<br><br>Tools:<br>Get good tools. I suggest Sears Craftsman for value, quality and availability. They are a little pricy, but nowhere near Snap-On or Mac, and will get the job done. Do repairs yourself so that you know what tools you will need/ not need. I've learned from experience to carry socket universal joints, 1/2" drive sockets, a stubby and regular 3/8" drive ratchet handles, lots of varying extensions. You learn the hard way on particular jobs on exactly what you need. Important additions to carry: about 5 pair of cheap vice grips to keep broken things clamped, bailing wire, JB Weld, a large Crecent wrench, large prybar, alignment tool (this looks like a large round steel punch, it's used to line up bolt holes and is essential for lining up tweaked parts), special tools including hub tool, tools for odd fittings (torx, square drive, allen, etc...). In my truck's tool bag are also: 16 oz (450 gram) ball peen hammer, multi-meter, tubeless repair kit, 8" mill file, 12" bastard file, 8" half-round file, 10" rat tail file, jewelers files, folding hacksaw(carry several blades).<br><br>This might be overkill for your trip, but it is not as bulky as it sounds. I would even carry a DeWalt 18V cordless drill with car charger. Included would be drill bits, steel and brass brushes, grinding stones and a small drill-powered pump. (that has saved my bacon). I could go on and on, the trick, it would seem) is to carry everything you need and nothing you dont! ; )

Dave, <br><br>On the subject of Hi-lift jacks, look into a gadget called the Jackmate (www.rescue42.com). Good stuff. I haven't used mine on anything serious (I had to sell my truck shortly after I got it), but it makes the jack even more useful than it already is.<br><br>Take care,<br><br>Andy

AndyO,<br><br>Thanks, One of your comments reminded me of something that I forgot to mention regarding the PTO Capstan Winch. <br><br>The one on my vehicle had the capability of being used with the engine starting crank handle. There was a lever beside the winch, that slid a pronged shaft into the crankshaft pulley of the engine when one wanted to use the engine for power. <br><br>The engine crank handle was then inserted through a hole in the front bumper, into a receiving shaft in front of the winch, which then turned both the winch and the engine crankshaft through the connecting shaft. <br><br>When engine power was not an option, then the lever could be left in the alternate position, allowing human power. <br><br>Fortunately, I never >HAD< to use the human power in the boonies, but it did spark some interest when I showed my buddies that it could be done. <br><br>They were also greatly intrigued by the engine crank capability as well and many of them wanted to do something similar to their vehicles after trying mine. <br><br>Yeowee . . . After hand cranking my Rover (as weIl as hand propping a couple of airplanes from time to time) I could only imagine hand cranking a V6 or V8 4X4 vehicle engine in the boonies. One would need to have forearms like "Popeye" and be ready to jump clear real quickly >Grin<. <br><br>In general, I agree with most all of the other commentary regarding hilifts, cable, tools etc. There is a definite wealth of group knowledge freely shared by the members of this site. <br><br>Dave:<br>Another little heads up item, check the hardware on your individual vehicle when collecting tools for the trip. My vehicle seemed to be a compendium of hardware types. I found American Standard / Metric / Whitworth? / ACME? and a few that I think could be best described as indeterminate. <br><br>I would hope that not all Rovers were equipped in the same manner, and as I noted in my earlier post, it was badly abused prior to my acquiring it.<br><br>The Rover did come with a couple of hand tools, which were great to have. The lug wrench really needed to have a longer handle though. <br> <br>Regards,<br>Comanche7

More Power Puller information:<br>http://www.morepowerpuller.com<br>