I just got back from the base camp after few weeks in Everest region. I read the book as it is probably mandatory handbook before you leave for Nepal. I worked out of base camp for a while with Himalayan Rescue Group and I saw condition of climbers that were coming down after attempting to clear the path or carry over supplies to camp 2 and 3 for final push later. I saw what lack of O2 can do and being paramedic in NYC I found how typical stuff we do in back home could not be done due to shortage of equipment or manpower. It seems that everyone has an opinion about "Into thin air". It seems that everyone loves to be a monday morning quarterback. Yes mistakes were made and it seems that pride costed people lives and limbs. But it happens everyday on Everest and we just don't hear about it. It is my dream to climb Everest one day but that can wait. Getting to the top is 1/3 of the fun. Trying to get back down is a totally different story and that's where problems start. Ethics, honor and friendship have little different meaning up there. People are driven up by their need of personal accomplishment and most likely after group pays $70000 for a climbing permit very few would give up the spot to help somebody since it would most likely cost them the ascent. Also sherpas are needed since they carry the supplies and lead sherpa is in charge of the route which even if laid out by previous team it is still better to be cleared thru by experienced guide. When I was on the mountain about 10 climbers died and 3 sherpas.


As a matter of fact two days before I left Australian climber was left behind to die by his teammates and was found by American climber Dan Mazur who gave up his chance to climb Everest so he can save this guy. This called for review of ethics and practices of high priced expeditions. Will it change something? No. But after endless talks with climbers both who made it and didn't it's not how much you can endure. It is about knowing when to quit.