Shelter is critical, of course. It's not going to fit into a micro-mini-kit ("PSK"). Here are a few of my thoughts, colored by my experiments and experiences:<br><br>Two plastic garbage bags (preferably heavy duty) can be pressed into service in a number of ways.<br><br>A proper parka plus other clothing is an expedient bivy shelter/sleeping bag one wears (many times personal experience - it works - not comfy, but it works).<br><br>A poncho, particularly a military poncho (NATO spec), is very versatile, altho I have always found them to be a tad small used as a shelter. They are so-so used on wet ground as a ground sheet, depending on the remaining efficacy of the waterproofing (exception being the ancient heavy rubberized canvas ones). Supplementing a poncho with a reflective blanket, even a disposable one, is a good idea. There are a few specialized (larger and high tech material) military ponchos out there, but they command a premium price even used and I have very little first hand experience with them.<br><br>About any expedient shelter takes TIME and effort to errect. The more times one practices in different environments, the less time and effort it takes. Using one's expedient shelter on routine outings is a GREAT way to learn all the tricks. Give yourself LOTS of time the first 5 or 6 times - start shelter construction about 3-4 hours before dark (really!). Depending on available resources, a practiced person can cut that down to a moment for instant shelter (like waiting out a rainstorm while snacking) to about 15-20 minutes for an adequate over-night shelter. All expedient shelters should be maintained/improved daily, in my opinion - they are never "finished".<br><br>Plastic film (e.g. "Visquene") based emergency shelters are better than nothing. It is cheap. It's also relatively heavy and weak. Strength can be improved (preferably in advance) by "rip-stopping" it with (first choice) filiment straping tape or (second choice) non-metalic duct tape - of course, that increases weight about 15% - 20% - an example of the basic idea can be found in the BSA Field Handbook (3rd edition).<br><br>Next up in suitability is a woven polyethelene tarp - the infamous "blue tarp" - available in other colors now, of course. Cost is a fair indication of quality - they are not all equal. The cheapest ones may be even cheaper than plastic film. These suffer UV degradation badly - the cheapest ones will disintigrate in a matter of weeks of constant exposure. A decent quality one is quite useful, just the same. The bulk can be reduced somewhat with careful folding and rolling, then binding very tightly with accessory straps or (ta-da!) cord (er, I meant "paracord" <grin>). If the cord is pre-cut to use with the tarp as a shelter, it speeds things up considerably.<br><br>A far superior low-cost emergency shelter uses duPont Tyvek Housewrap (not Typar). The commercial wrap will work as well - just a bit heavier. The printed side should face the elements - sky (tarp) or ground (ground sheet). It is a non-directional "weave" and very strong. Also resists UV degradation better than plastic film or nylon. "Hand" can be vastly improved by repeatedly crumpling it up (stuff and re-stuff it into a stuff sack many times) or by running it through a conventional home agitator-type washing machine (no detergent, cold water) - DO NOT run it thru a clothes dryer ( one CAN use a dryer on AIR ONLY) - just hang it on a line and it will be dry very quickly, as it absorbs < 0.01% water. If one cannot obtain a remnant, buddy-up and cooperatively purchase a 150' roll of the wide stuff. Cost should run around 10 cents/square foot or less. There is seaming tape available for the inventive folks, but simple is good with this material. Properly done, a Tyvek tarp is even lighter (real-world) than a same-size silicone-treated nylon tarp and essentially (real world) at least as strong. Of course, for all practical purposes, you gotta like white with logo printing as a color...<br><br>Next would be the various nylon tarps - homemade or commercial. They can be as light as non-treated ripstop (parachute material - personnel, not cargo), which is very good stuff in dry snow conditions and worthless in any damp or wet, to silicone-treated ripstop (VERY expensive), to urethane coated ripstop (conventional), to urethane coated cordura (a bit heavy, but still compact and durable as heck).<br><br>The list goes on and on - many things are adaptable. Just make sure you have something in your essentials kit and you'll be much better off. And like I said, the payoff for learning to use whatever one carries is very very high - practice really helps immensely.<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Tom