I allready have a small benchmade folder, but need a larger knife for misc. tasks around camp and for general survivial purposes. I'm looking at the Becker Knife & tool companion, but was wondering if I should get something with a 6 or 7 " blade. I hear many conflicting opinions, and would like some advice on this. Thanks in advance for the help. --Ian [edit]-While I'm at it, are there any other knives along these lines that any of you would reccomend I look into which are not horrendously expensive?

there are a lot of conflicting preferene because they are personal preference's.

Big knife: heavy and annoying to carry, but you will be able to chop.

Small knife: light and easy to carry, but you can only split wood with a baton.

cheap, light, small and good knife: Mora's.

I've always thought you were better off with say a 3" blade pocket knife, and a hachet - aka the right tools for the job - and probably about the same weight

Have you read the ETS Gear section on the subject?

This leads to my recommendation that a survival knife should have a blade at least four inches long, but no longer than six inches, or there about.

You need to read the whole thing to see why Doug says that.

I decided on the BK10 Crewman rather than the Campanion. It's a bit less expensive and still quite stout, but not so stout that I can't use it for lighter tasks. The Campanion does look like it could dig a ditch though. <img src="/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> As far as blade length, I think that 5-6" is just about perfect, but you will get some debate about that I am sure.

I am a Mora fan but I now prefer a different knife. I took a Cold Steel True Flight Thrower and modified it. It is made of Carbon V steel. It does everything I want my knife to do and is as indestructible as a knife can be.

I filed the black coating off the sides of the blade and kept filing until it was almost down to a zero grind. Then I put a normal edge on it. I replaced the green para-cord with extra heavy duty red and black boot lace. I did the wrap so that there is no knot on the blade end of the handle. I then put a very small piece of friction tape on the bottom of the choil. I took the sheath's belt loop and folded it over and pop riveted it in place. Now the knife sits higher and it is very flat so my hand and arm do not catch or rub against it.

This knife is a perfect, flat ground, wedge. It splits wood and cuts so smoothly I can't believe it. It cuts paper and cardboard very smoothly. The weight of the blade makes some cutting tasks very smooth and easy. The tip of the blade is very strong. It goes from full thickness to the point at a steep angle.

You can't hurt this knife! There is no handle to damage. If the cord gets damaged you can wrap a new one. It is a great field knife because you don't have to worry about it getting scratched or dinged. I have been shaving thin wood strips with it for ferro rod tinder. That takes a lot of hard gripping. It feels good in the hand. You have to hold it so your thumb and first finger are on the choil.

It is a mean wood splitting and cutting machine! <img src="/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to read the section on knife recommendations. -Ian

After many hours of research, I tend to second that.

A big knife is nice and fun, but I don't know it I would hike for many hours with a 12-15 oz. knife on my belt.

Something around 4" seems to be the most versatile blade length.

Bee,

I have read that a utility knife should have a blade length that is about the width of the palm of your hand.

I just picked up the new Benchmade CSK Combat Survival Knife 6" D2 and it is awesome! I think I finally found the perfect fixed blade for my survival kit. At least until Doug brings his fixed blade out!

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=BM156BT

I like it a lot, comes with a great cordura sheath with extra pocket for sharpening stone, etc. Haven't used it yet, but can't wait!

I like it.

Looks like a hard use knife. How does it hold an edge? I guess the question is how hard is it? As you know hardness and ductility in a knife are a comprimise. I broke the blade on my first issue USMC Ka-Bar hammering on it, but if you could get it sharp it stayed sharp through a lot of hard use.
Luke

Luke,

The CS True Flight Thrower is made of Carbon V steel. Have you seen Cold Steel's video: "More Proof"? It seems like great steel. Takes a very sharp edge. I use a Ragnar diamond plate to get a sharp edge and then I use a leather strop from Sportsman's Warehouse to get a polished edge. I can hold the knife and pull paper through it. I have whittled wood and it still cut paper smoothly. I'd rather have steel that is easy to sharpen than one that is super hard and then a pain in the butt to sharpen again. I haven't seen where 154CM holds an edge a lot longer than Carbon V. But it sure is a lot harder to get a paper cutting edge. It is not stainless so it does not stay petty. It is also good around the camp kitchen. There is no finger guard to get in the way of a cutting board. It slices tomatoes and bread easily. You can hold the top of the blade and use it for chopping vegetables.

Was it a Ka-bar, or a kbar with the black handle? And what did you hit it with?

I ask becuase I've carried and used a Ka-Bar MkII for almost a decade and never had a problem, including batoning.

I choose ro trust resaerch that's already been established.
Glock Field Knives

(.......and sometimes I can spell too.......).
Here's a site that sells Glock field knives....Glocks are cheap compared to most "survival" knives".
With or without a sawblade spine.

5.25 inch blade enough? I should think so. What are you going to be doing? Can you accomplish your task with a shorter (and lighter) blade?

I have both a Glock combat knife and folding shovel (got them years ago - in the 80's - for free from a Glock rep trying to interest a local PD in Glock 17's). They are servicable military knives OMHO. The knife is well built, nicely balanced, and has a rugged, hard-plastic case. It can take a lot of abuse (I carried one on my LBE when I was in the Reserves.) However, the darn thing will lose it's edge if you so much as look at it funny. I was always re-sharpening it. Today, when I go camping/canoeing, I take my old (and I mean old!) Buck Folding Hunter. You can sculpt marble with it and it will still hold an edge.

As for the Glock shovel, it is cute, has some nice gadgets (saw blade in the handle), but the shovel lock would often slip when digging through hard soil, and the shovel blade would rotate past 90 degrees! I still carry the heavier, and more reliable, Ames (US Army) tri-fold shovel instead.

Hope this helps,

.....CLIFF

I have new respect for my fellow ETS Forum members after seeing how many posts have been made in response to this question without one lewd joke being tossed in...

I didn't toss one in with my post?
Oh, dear. You're right; let me remedy that. I have a reputation to uphold, you know.....

"Don't judge a knife's abilities just based on how long the blade is. You will miss out on much of the cutting pleasure. While length seems to be the concern most fixated on, blade width is just as critical a component. As is how well you wield your blade when the times comes to use it." <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

And then there's the whole issue of blade safety, and what type of sheaths should be used...... <img src="/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

Am I banned yet, Chris?

Bad batch of boudan? Maybe Peanut can give you some mineral oil for colic <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> The only time I personally found a larger blade usefull was studying Kendo in San Francisco. My Zen Roshi pretty well beat me to a pulp. So the next session I showed up dragging a huge two handed scottish Claymore. I subscribe to the two knife concept; one for fine work and a larger blade for Zen Masters, digging holes and splitting wood.

Be nice. Anything between 2.5 & 6" is reasonable. If thats the size, shape, balance and heft your happy with then go with it. Your only real considerations are strength , grip, ease of sharpening & how easy is it to clean. How important each of those factors is of course a personal choice. As for the sensi, try a shotgun... ( there speaks a true descenant of the English Bowman). No, seriously , if your interested in that sort of thing, take a look at what happened to the samurai at the end of the 19th Century.

Not wishing to leave Cliff "hanging" like that, I will add...

It is not the size of the sword, but the swordsman himself.

Still, I chose to enter battle with a sabre than a dagger.

TR

Have you tried a sharpmaker on this knife? And did you buy the cold steel sheath or are you using an aftermarket sheath? I am considering picking up one of these for my kit. It seems like a good inexpensive knife.