I recently started using canned air to clean out the lint and dirt from my folding knives. However, I've noticed that some of them have built up gunk in them that won't blow out. Anyone have a solution for getting that stuff out? I was thinking about cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol, but there's probably something better, eh?

I use a product called Break Free http://www.break-free.com/. It is a milspec clean/lube/protect. If I'm feeling lazy,
I'll just blow it out with WD-40.

if you disasseble it, it will be much easier....

I should have mentioned that some of the knives cannot be disassembled, a SAK for instance.

Using the tweezers frome th SAK I'll use Q-tip tops or gauze or a small piece of cloth to really get down into the SAK 'grooves' that are under the blade. The q-tip with most of the cotton removed also fits quite nicely into those grooves and I'll put some lube on it to touch up the knife. Hope this helps.

Ors:

You can clean any SAK by submerging the entire knife in warm water, opening and closing the blades a few times as per their web page . Dry the knife throughly and lubricate it with a light oil. You can use breakfree as mentioned, 3 in 1 oil, WD-40, Boeshield etc, etc. Oh and keep using the canned air, I have noticed it seems to have cut down on my knife maintenance. <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Take care,
Stargazer

ASAP = Always Suspicious, Always Prepared

hot water and some brushes seems to do the trick for me. Some oil afterwards. I use the brushes from a east german AK 47 cleaning kit.

I use the compressed air can for my knives also. to get rid of the "gunk" I use a little water and dawn to cut the built up greese and the i take a small brush .I use one of my kids brushes they use for their braces. of coarse they don't use it again. its a very small brush long ang thin. it work great to clean out the grunge. then i use a blow drier to get rid of any water and 3in1 multi oil to finish the job.

I have stopped carrying my sak in my pocket because there it (the sak) fills up with sweat, pocket lint and unknown sticky type material. This makes the parts very hard to open. I have had past success using soap & water in an ultrasonic bath. Then, rinse thoroughly with clean water & dry overnight. Next, soak in WD-40 for a while. Drain, & wipe down carefully. Just be sure that you don't leave it in the ultrasonic bath for too long. Over time, the bath tends to gets hot and the water evaporates. Petrified soap is very difficult to remove. I really wish that the sak could be easily disassembled for cleaning.

I've been carrying a pocket knife every day for over 25 years now. Never had to resort to scrub brushes and solvents. A toothpick works great, the wood fibers crush down into those little slots and gets it all out. Lightly oil just the pivot pins. Work the blade back and forth a couple of times to get the oil in and then try to wipe the oil off. Wipe it good, you're not going to get it out of the pivot, and any extra will just be a dirt magnet. For the oil, I really like a synthetic, high viscosity, extreme pressure rated bicycle chain oil. The bicycle racing community is not going to risk their equipment or a race using cheap oil, this is good stuff!

On my big SAK, a SwissChamp, I open all the blades and tools and put it in the dishwasher. I try to position it so that it's in directly in the path of a waterjet. After the wash, when it's dry, I lube the pivots with oil.

For adhesive gunk stuck on blades, I use these products--one at a time, in escalating order: Purell hand sanitizer, nail polish remover, Ronsonol, and freon. Fortunately, the hand sanitizer works well enough most of the time and I don't have to go any further than that. I just have to wipe vigorously.

I've been cleaning antique scientific instruments and other mechanical devices for about 30 years. Maybe I can lend some advice here.

Disassemble whatever can be easily removed. Yes, start with compressed air and force the loose dry material (usually lint) out of the workings of the knife (I would use a compressor if you have one). Avoid cotton swabs to clean; cotton may get stuck in the works. Use toothpicks, tooth brushes, dental tools other blades etc. Brass bristle brushes are the best for breaking up gunk.... I use brass brush tips that are typically used with Dremels but attach them to a handle for cleaning by hand. Keep cleaning the knife without solvents until you get as much gunk/lint out as possible.

Next, for that stubborn materials, use any solvent that quickly evaporates, or, use a solvent that when chased with alcohol or acetone, will mix with it and promote drying. I use an assortment of cleaning solvents, the more common ones include: lacquer thinner, acetone, alcohol, ammonia, thinners, and any fuels, including lighter fluid, gasoline, charcoal starter, to name a few. You do not want to leave any moisture in the pivots between bolsters and handle or any other place where it can sit and begin an oxidation problem.

After you have loosened and removed the dirt, rinse with alcohol or acetone and blow out the moisture with compressed air again. If you suspect moisture is stuck in certain areas, again rinse the area with acetone or alcohol and blow it dry. I would NEVER recommend using a dishwasher or soap and water to clean a knife unless it was totally disassembled. Water hides in places where it can promote oxidation and even the heat from a dishwasher cannot evaporate hidden moisture.

Only after the knife is totally cleaned and dried should it be sparingly lubed. After the hinges are saturated, (Prolix, teflon, light machine oil....your choice), once again blow out all the excess so the remaining lubricant will not work like a lint magnet in your pocket. Avoid silicone based lubes....silicone can hide water. The more excess lube you can remove the better. Think of the excess lube as the material you'll be trying to scrub out during your next cleaning session.

Just be careful when using various solvents with plastic handled/scaled knives such as SAKs, the handles/scales can start to melt and the adhesive, which holds the handles/scales, can dissolve. I speak from experience <img src="/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />.

Pete

If you do use water, be careful how hot it is. I had the great idea to dunk my SAK in boiling water and warped the liners. A lesson in differential thermal expansion <img src="/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> Plus it lightened the color of the scales.

Steve

Someplace I heard somebody say to toss the knife into the dishwasher, but I worry that the dishwasher detergent is just too harsh.

Do Not Use Water.... Do Not Use Soaps....Do Not Use A Dishwasher.
Read this.......

..And yes, as previously mentioned by ParamedicPete, be careful of the effects of solvents on plastics and glues.

Heat+moisture=oxidation (think dishwasher)

Nail polish remover is just pretty acetone, not something I would use on most folders. It will melt a lot of plastics and take enamel off (i.e. nail polish/paint), it will even take off some protective coatings like parkerizing. Ronsonol and mineral spirits are a lot safer for removing adhesives.