The little ones are better than nothing - up to a point. But there is no comparison between the two in ampacity. If the dead vehicle is easy to turn over (small displacement 4 cyl with moderate compression ratio), the 10ga will be OK up to but not including a totally dead battery (or shorted cells or...) and they will be very iff in cold weather - meaning around +10deg-F or colder - if the dead vehicle is cold soaked.

If it's cold or the dead battery is really toast or it's a large displacement engine etc etc - you cannot get it done with the skinny wires. Figure you might be able to punch 50 amps thru 10ga wires - very briefly, and at a huge cost in terms of voltage drop. The larger cables reduce or eliminate the voltage drop AND carry vastly more amps. Even so, in extreme cold (eg -40F) it may not be possible with any spring-clamp cables - it's hard to punch several hundred amps thru those teeth. I twice had to resort to some extreme measures to jump folks at -50F or colder back in our interior Alaska days.

I won't carry anything shorter than 16' or less than 4ga, and I stick to the ones with decent low-temp insulation. Her in the MidWest, too many times I have helped folks who couldn't get it done with the cheapies - put the big cables on and the dead car lights off immediately. Biggest problem I have encountered are the protrusions on the jaws that supposedly let you sneak onto side terminal batteries - they can lead to an occasional bit of excitement in a crowded engine compartment. I have zero vehicles with side terminal batteries, so you can guess what I'd like to do with those...

Tom

I agree. I try to buy the longest set I can afford. Idealy, a 25ft. set would allow you to jump a vehicle that may be stopped in front or behind you--say on a dangerous stretch of highway.
The lower the gauge number the better. Pick a set that have both lead wires joined, so you don't have to untangle 2 wires everytime you take them out of the trunk.
Also, if you live in a region where you get cold winters, make sure the jumper cables are rated for sub-zero temperatures. In really cold weather, the cheaper cables will cease being flexible. The better cables still stay malleable within their given rating.
- Frank

Not specifically at WW, but Edie Bauer stuff is all very poor quality stuff.

Dave

Yes -- I have noticed that about Wally World. I heard that Wally World does business with its suppliers a little differently. Supposedly, each year they require their suppliers to lower the price on the goods they offer. This is so Wal-Mart can continue to lower their prices in the store.

All this cost-cutting means that companies that provide Wal-Mart with items have to look at doing it cheaper each year; e.g., overseas.

My guess is companies make two versions of their products: one version for normal sale, then another, cheaper version to offer to Wal-Mart. Not selling your product to the nation's second-largest employer (behind the Federal Government) makes you look bad and cuts into your bottom line.

Rant off. <img src="/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Another case of "you get what you pay for".

Troy

Mr. Ors, definitely go with four gauge stranded wire. But more importantly, remember that a battery can explode right in your face and cause serious injury, burns and even loss of eyesight. I would strongly urge you to 1) Learn the correct sequence of connecting. 2) Wear a pair of wrap around good quality eye goggles. 3) Never assume that jumping a battery is without danger. 4) Read the witty but informative tutorial (link below).

Good luck.

http://www.misterfixit.com/jumpstrt.htm

Boone

Maybe it's already been mentioned, but could you possibly expand on the best connection sequency to minimize risk when jump starting a vehicle. Thanks in advance.

10 Gage? That's good for charging a battery - but not jumping - too much I^2R losses - aka, you hook them up, and wait, say 15-20 minutes or more while your battery charges, and then try to start the car

Personally, I think 4 gage are a bit light!! I took some old welding cables and made my own - they are ONLY 0 gage (light welding cable) - a lot more flexable than regular cables too

NON, the connection procedure is outlined in an earlier post I made but I will post the link again. It tells you about all you will need to know.

http://www.misterfixit.com/jumpstrt.htm

On the subject of dead batterys, let me offer a little tip that might be of value. Dead batterys won't take a charge if 1) the battery has gone bad, or 2) if the alternator has quit charging. If you are far from home and at the mercy of some fly by night mechanic wanting to sell you an alternator, a quick check you can make is: With the engine running, remove the ground cable from the battery. If the engine continues to run with the cable removed, the alternator is good. 2) If the engine abruptly dies when you remove the ground cable, it is likely that the alternator is bad. With this test, you will at least have some idea of what your problem is.

Hope this helps.

If you remove the battery cable on a runnign vehicle with a computer you run the risk of frying the computer. I had a service manager from a dealership inform me of that.