We made these windscreens from flashing to fit the "largest" kettle/pot they may use + about 1/4 - 1/2 inch gap. Used 1/2 width of a 12" wide roll - i.e., 6" high. <br><br>They simply "close down" to a smaller diameter for smaller diameter pots, altho I note that (coincidentally) all but one of the pots they own between the three of them is "close enough" to the same as max diameter to not matter. Pots/kettles with bales are handier for them (this isn't going to used with a skillet, but a cut-down area on the flashing would accomodate side-handled cookwear).<br><br>Corners are radiused on the flashing. I think I would like a dead-soft aluminum windscreen a la MSR better, but the lads are happy with these and they sure work well..<br><br>The pot stands, as you also suggested, have the "tabs" of cut wire bent and crimped around the cross wires (alternate directions to avoid bursting a joint). Something to do while waiting for the JB Weld to cure in the oven... We did not leave a gap in the hardware cloth, choosing to use about 12" long piece that is a bit taller than suggested. No simmer ring <shrug> - these are for boiling water as we see it.<br><br>1 oz of denatured (ethanol) alcohol brings a full quart (32 fl oz) of water to a rolling boil and holds it there briefly with any of the stoves. Mild breeze, ~600 ft ASL, 48 deg-F water and 41 deg-F ambient temperature. This includes all fuel used (preheat fuel sprinkled out of the filled burner). One of the stoves is faster - 4 1/2 minutes to full boil. The other two take just under 6 minutes. No simple explanation for the difference. BTW, times are ignition-to-boil (kettle pre-filled with water and fuel pre-measured and poured into the burner)<br><br>Oddly enough... 1/2 oz fuel boils 1/2 quart (16 fl oz) of water (barely)... Two quarts of water can be boiled with roughly 1.8 oz of fuel thus: Boil one quart. As soon as it is rolling, remove kettle and place a second kettle on the stove. The exact amount of fuel required varies between the three stoves. I fully expect that cold conditions will require a slight increase in fuel (preheat will take more). I have not checked BTU potential values to see if this all even makes sense - it's just empirical results.<br><br>Tests were done with an MSR stainless steel kettle with a lid on. Bails get too hot to handle without protection. There is also considerable "waste" heat, so kettle stacking to warm or preheat the upper kettle is very possible.<br><br>Surprised at the soot (not much, but there is some). My (old) paradigm with alcohol is blue flame, no soot. Now I know better...<br><br>Finished testing... stoves are packed for the next trip. The lads have "appointments" to show some other crew members how to make personal stoves - everyone who has seen them work wants one and none have said "well, I'd rather buy a _______ stove".<br><br>Tried one stove with mineral spirits - stick to alcohol. Huge flames (not high pressure, but big flames) and tons of soot - I'm sure we made a few zillion buckyballs on that test. Took forever to burn off 1 oz of fuel and it was a PITA to preheat.<br><br>As for myself, I'm sticking with my pressurized stove - whichever one I carry. But I am mightly impressed with these "free" stoves - they work very well. An Esbit is in my "Be Prepared" pack because it's small and will boil water; otherwise I would make one of these up for me to carry as well.<br><br>