How long ago did the formula change? When I was a little kid the matches seem to light via any course surface. Now I have trouble getting about half to light on side walks or asfalt. I still like them and think they should be included in every kit. Just make sure you always have a back up.
<img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Long ago, I used to coat the matches in candle wax as I learned in the Boy Scouts. They tend to go bad after a short storage period. Then they will not strike. I gave up on any coating and just keep them in a waterproof match safe and carry other means to light a fire if necessary. In fact I carry 3 methods and can also use primitive techniques if I absolutely have to. I can usually find materials, although usually not all in the same spot! Cheers!

Ive never actually seen a strike anywhere match, because our government thinks they are unsave and we might hurt ourselves. We have strict Australian standards and any imported that dont meet them get sent to a furnace in Victoria and burnt. I know of some that the sticks were 2 milimeters too short so the whole shipment got burnt. (quite an ironic end for a match not up to standard <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> )

Chris,

I agree with your statements about wooden matches (preferably strike anywhere) except on one account: Most kids don't know how to use matches of any sort. I have to teach them (Scouts). For what it's worth, most know how to use a BIC - or at least, how to accidentally burn themselves with a BIC...

Take a random sample of 100 12 - 13 year olds, put them outdoors, and have them do something simple with a match - like light a candle. It's eye-opening.

I can still obtain kitchen matches, but it's getting harder for the reason you stated. And the penny-pinchers (or legal worriers?) have in fact reduced the tips. I have some "vintage" ones and there is no doubt.

Tom

Anyone but you, I'd ask if they were kidding.

Tom, does it ever get to you, what they can't do.

If you are relating polyurethane to shellac, realize that it is a synthetic shellac. Whenever I refer to shellac for a particular project, I mean REAL shellac. In my experience, the synthetics just don't cut it for anything. <img src="/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Sue

Additionally I have heard that Thompson's Water Seal works. Haven't tried it myself though.

I have just about given up on the idea of matches in a kit. The reason is the number of lights per volume. The small fire spikes are about the size of 3 maybe 4 matches. The ones I'm talking about are the "flint" rod like a Swedish fire steel wrapped about 3/4 around by magnesium. They give you 50 or so lights. The bigger Doan modles give a hundred or so for the volume of 7 or 8 matches. For 20 or so matches either a mini Bic or a full size butane lighter that gives you hundreds if not thousands of lights. not counting the extra space of the match container.

No contest.

All of these other methods have little or no moisture problems.

I figured that was my problem. That is why I specified in my post that I was NOT using Shellac. I was essentially coating the match in plastic and that the air simply couldn't get to the material to help it ignite.

BTW, yesterday I ordered a Solo Camp Lighter from Basegear.com that is an extending lighter. I'm hoping it will do a better job of reaching inside the fire layout to the tinder. I'll let you guys know how well it works.

>>...does it ever get to you, what they can't do...<<

Nah, not with the scouts themselves. Guess that's why we're there, eh?