Ok so I have succumbed to the idea that a convexed edge is a pretty nifty edge to have on a blade. My dad proved that to me this past summer. (Finally figured out his secret!!!!) So I was wondering if I put a comvexed edge on my RSK 1 would it thin out the blade to much? Will it destroy the knife? If not, any recommendations on how to do it? Looking at getting a Bark River Big game knife and a GB Mini-Hatchet so I figured why not have the same edge on all of them. Thanks.

Sounds like a good experiment. Let us know how it works out.

BUT

I think you're obligated to share your dad's secret with us, now that you've mentioned it.

Are you using the mousepad technique? (Something a little flexible -- like a mousepad -- behind various grades of emery cloth.)

If so, at what angle do you draw the blade along? Or how high up do you raise the spine? And how much pressure do you use?

Bear

Convex () or concave)(?

Convex because this thread is about a technique to sharpen the blade. I haven't tried it (yet) but people seem to be enthusiastic about it. Basically you use a flexible abrasive surface. Anyone have some good Web descriptions? I've read Moras are traditionally sharpened this way.

I initially thought this thread was about hollow-ground (concave) vs flat-ground blades. I'm sure you know, but for the sake of the discussion, mention those are techniques for making the blade rather than sharpening it, each with its advantages/disadvantages.

Steve

Go to Knifeforums.com & look at the sharpening forum. Also, search for "convex sharpening", "mouse pad", or something similar. There's at least one tutorial there, somewhere...sorry I don't have time to find it right now... <img src="/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

David

Personally I use the Razor Edge Book of Sharpening. It goes into great detail on how to sharpen everything with an edge. It also goes into detail on the science of how to sharpen. I know of some people who don't like it....if anybody is one of those people....my apologies....I am only offering an option. I love its results.

I've been sharpening my EDC RSK on my Sharpmaker at the 30* setting about every 2 weeks. I use the knife daily at work to open boxes and it's been pretty easy to keep it shaving sharp with a minimum of effort (so far). Can somebody with more knife knowledge than me explain the advantage of the convex edge? How easy is it to do and how easy is it to maintain? And (especially) what are the advantages-- if any--over shaving sharp at 30*?

Regards, Vince

The idea is that you can use an edge that is NOT as thin at the cutting edge but that slices just as well, if not better...
That way the carbides at the very edge are more supported and never break off, dulling the edge...
A true convex almost never has to actually be resharpened, just a quick pass or two on some cardboard or even your paints leg and you can butcher four or five deer... Afterwords you may need to use some leather with polishing compound on it, but not actually sharpen it...
I had a friend with a SAK that I would sharpen very sharp and he would bring it in a few days later, so dull you could not cut yourself...
I finally asked him, if I could do an experiment and convex it...
He said yes, and an hour or so later gave it back to him sharp enought to shave and slick free hanging paper...
It was over 2 months before it needed touching up, and that was done with some leather with green polishing compound on it!
It seems impossible, but it really works...
BTW... You know the old sharpening stones in the hardware store, that were so slope backed that you never wanted to use them??? Well, if you use one of them, and folow the curve, you will get a convex edge too.
Flat edges are(mostly) a modern invention...The Boy Scout manual promoted it, and it became the standard, but it was NOT the way that knives were sharpened before that.
That, along with convex being hard to do by machine, let to people forgetting about the advantages of a convex edge...

Another advantage of the convex is in deep slicing... Look at any sub-sonic airplane... you will not see sharp transitions...
Cutting thick material is simular to fluid dynamics in some ways...

That was my other concern: how easy it would be to touch up in the field. Sounds like it wouldn't be too difficult. I may have to give it a try.

Regards, Vince