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#51404 - 10/06/05 10:36 PM BOB Flashlight Requirements
Anonymous
Unregistered


Hey guys,

I'm looking for a light with the capabilities of the new L1 but which takes one or two AA batteries. A KL1 with Vital Gear body comes close, but I'm looking for a compatible 2-stage tailcap switch. Cost really isn't a factor here. My current BOB light setup is a Longbow ECO and a Gerber Recon. The Recon especially is suboptimal. What I'd like to do is reduce weight and bulk by combining the capabilities of the two lights into one. As such, a two-stage light with an F05 and F06 filter would do the job. AAs are absolutely required for this role.

I take it nobody makes a 2-stage tailcap for the VG body? I can't believe no one has thought of doing it. Any suggestions? Thanks.

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#51405 - 10/07/05 12:19 AM Re: BOB Flashlight Requirements
JohnN Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 10/10/01
Posts: 966
Loc: Seattle, WA
I think your best bet is to wait for another month and get an HDS EDC U85 (actually, any of the HDS EDC line, but why not get the best?) with the 2 AA battery tube. (review)

You can also get your HDS EDC now, and just order the AA battery tube later.

You can see the 2x123A battery tube in this post by this_is_nascar on CPF: HDS Ultimate Runtime. AA battery tube is likely to be similar (but longer).

The current HDS EDC Ultimate 85 (U85) takes 1x123A battery and outputs four light levels, up to 85 lumens. This makes it able to stand toe-to-toe on max output with lights like the Surefire E2e (see beamshots).

The HDS EDC lights have a lens kit to allow you to get the beam you prefer.

I use mine with the standard lens plus a slip on Surefire F04 beamshaper (diffuser) to provide a flood light output, which you can pull off for good throw.

I also have been using a F04 beamshaper with the lens pushed out to create rubber "armor" for the light, just for fun.

HDS is coming out with a 2x123A battery tube as well as the AA battery tube. They also are going to have several rechargable tube options.

Recommended options: Lens kit (even if you don't plan on changing the lens and SF F04 beamshaper (diffuser).

You can buy them from batterystation.com
and other places.

Oh, here is the mfg runtime listings for the lights. These are supposed to be worst case and since the light is regulated, output is constant. Note the lights have four levels which are normally set to 85/60/42 lumens (depending on which light you purchased), 10 lumens, 2.5 lumens and .3 lumens. With 1x123A you get about 8.5 hours at 10 lumens and about 300 hours at .3 lumens.
runtime

-john

(ALL THE PICS)










Edited by JohnN (10/07/05 12:36 AM)

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#51406 - 10/07/05 12:51 AM Re: BOB Flashlight Requirements
JohnN Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 10/10/01
Posts: 966
Loc: Seattle, WA
Quote:
I take it nobody makes a 2-stage tailcap for the VG body?


FWIW, I think you can make what you need, but you are going to have to piece it together.

If you add a 1x123 exender + an AA cell extender to an "e" series SF body, that should get you the correct length: VG extenders (I think)

Then add a head (KL1 or whatever) and a McE2S "McGizmo" 2 stage tailcap switch. It appears this is also known as an Aleph 2 stage tailap switch. You can see pictures here .

Looks like they are sold at Lighthound and the Sandwich Shoppe.

Not sure if anyone has ever tried it tho.

-john

Edit, oh, and it's going to look kinda crazy too. Basically like this but with the McGizmo tailcap of your choice.


Edited by JohnN (10/07/05 12:55 AM)

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#51407 - 10/07/05 02:07 AM Re: BOB Flashlight Requirements
Anonymous
Unregistered


Cool, thanks!

Guess I'll have to bug HDS for an ETA on AA bodies. Wanted an Arc for a long time but was put off by the trials and tribulations of the company.

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#51408 - 10/07/05 12:19 PM Re: BOB Flashlight Requirements
harrkev Offline
Enthusiast

Registered: 09/05/01
Posts: 384
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
It is my experience that heat kills alkaline batteries (I live in Florida). Alkalines also do not work in the cold, and lithiums have a 10-year shelf life. To me, the option of using 123 OR AA/AAA would be the best combination. Keep a 123 light in your bag, but also have the tube to allow you to use AA if you need to.
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