I agree with the ending you have writen at least if not all. I had my first .22 gun at 6, and I had many folders before that. I can still remember a cheap brightly gripped dagger I had, mainly becuase I was sittng by tyhe pond whittling and my mother came a toosed it in the pond. She had no reason really, but that was just after the divorce. I only dabbled in scouting as a child. I was pretty bored with it. Just to go see kid type friend had to travel about 1 /12 miles thru the woods to get to the closest neighborhood. By my scouting years I was ahead of most of the leaders, at least so far as I was concerned at that time.<br>After my parents divoced and as my mother forbade most weapons, oddly the .22 was not considered such, I began to collect knives that a kid can manage to aquire. My son has these knives now, and since most of them are pretty much gone more or less he says some of them are collectors!<br><br>I don't have much use for stainless these days it just does not float my stick.... When I want a knife I want a sharp knife. I found a shefield bowie with no guard or grips working construction. it was dug from a cellar hole in the open ground. it was a tad rusty, but cleaned up very well. It is some 15+" long 1/4" thick, and the blade width is some 2/12" at about the widest. I made a brass guard and moose slab grips for it.... That is the only knife I would consider chopping and spliting wood with that I have....<br><br>Please note I am condensing replies here for better or worse.<br><br>My method to split wood with this knife which I don't really do... would be if the split wood was sawn as fire wood, to make 1 chop into the end on the cord wood, and then flip the cord wood over and slam the spine of the blade down on a wood chopping block, driving the blade intp the cord wood.. I have done that a few times, but ususally I have a belt ax or bigger with me and tend to use the better tool for the job, so long as I have it that is...<br><br>it seems to me Stainless like the diamond sharpeners, and carbon steels tend to like natural and man made noviculite type stones to sharpen. I generaly use water with oil type stones if I buy them new. Once a stone has been oiled , oil must be used from that point on. All the liquides do is float off particals of steel, so the stone does not clog.<br> My 2 cents anyway..... Kinda funny here reading and seeing just how far the PC effect has gone.... I think you are supposed to be 18??? to buy a knife these days? ... Mac

I recently went ahead and purchased two fixed blade knives from Ragweed Forge. Both are manufactured by Helle in Norway. I bought a Fjelkniven for myself and a Speider for my son. I bought them both as gifts (my wife to me on Fathers Day), so I haven't used them yet. But here are a few first thoughts just on initiol inspection.<br><br>First of all, the craftsmanship and quality are very good. There's nothing extraordinarily fancy about them, which appeals to me as I prefer to keep it simple. <br><br>The Speider, which means "Scout" in Norwegian, is definately smaller. The blade is about 3.5" and the handle is ment for smaller hands. I have relatively small hands as an adult (size 8-9) and the Speider is not comfortable in my grip. The bottom of the handle rests on the heel of my palm instead of extending past it. So it's sized for a small hand, but an older boy's hand may be already too big for it. I'll have to watch my son's growth and upgrade him to a larger handle as his hand size increases.<br><br>The handle is a plain grained, darkly stained birch. Nothin fancy, which keeps down the cost $29, and will be less obtrusive when he wears it on campouts. That appeals to me as I don't want him to draw attention to himself because of the potental conflict with scout leaders who haven't don't know the BSA policy. (Thanks, Tom, for finding the manual reference. I've copied onto my Palm in case we're ever questioned about it.). The dark green leather shealth also has an embosed Norwegian scout emblem, which is a universal symbol of scouting. This also will lend an air of being an official knife to it. The sheath also has a snap to hold the knife secure. I like that as it will help prevent him from losing it accidentally. Kids have a knack for not paying attention to their belongings as well as adults do, even if it's strapped to their bodies. :-) The Speider blade is made from non-laminted stainlees steel, which keeps the price down. It also has a metal fingergaurd that will help protect young, eager hands.<br><br>The Fjelkniven is an attractive, but not fancy looking knife. The lightly stained curly birch handle has a distinctive grain. The handle shape is comfortable and is shaped to provide a slight finger gaurd to help prevent your hand from sliding up onto the bad. It's not a true finger guard, but it will help one's grip from slipping. I like that as I have never owned a fixed blade before, so the shape helps provide me with some piece of mind. Plus it fits comfortably in my hand. It comes with a leather sheath and the knife is secure only by friction. That worries me a bit, but it is a tight fit and actually takes a slight effort to remove. Perhaps it will slip out with less effort as the leather is worn. But for now I don't think I'll loss it. The 4" blade is triple laminated steel, as quoted from the Ragweed Forge website, "The center portion is of high carbon stainless steel, hardened to 58-59 HRC. This is the harder part of the blade that holds the edge. The outside layers are tough 18/8 stainless. This makes a blade that can be sharpened to a very fine razor edge, and yet is not brittle."<br><br>I will report back once we "receive" the knives as gifts and actually use them in the field.

Bill, I think you will enjoy the knives. If you have any questions be sure to email Ragnar. He is very generous with his knowledge. For loss prevention I suggest tying a simple lanyard from the hilts to a belt loop, or a simple extra securing lash around the hilt and sheath. With a non binding knot you have quick enough access. Ask ragnar what dressing to use on the sheaths. Some actually make it pliable, while waxes can actually stiffen it. You may also consider engraving your son's name or S/S# on the blade. Ihave a feeling the other scouts will be lusting after it! knives are like guppies and coat hangers. You walk away from the closet or aquarium and more seem to turn up! ;O)

>>>For loss prevention I suggest tying a simple lanyard from the hilts to a belt loop,...<<<<br><br>The blade tang extends all the way through the handle and is secured by a brass "rivet." I'm not sure how I could secure an eye hook or something to attach a lanyard. It would be off-center and I'd worry about weakening the wood by placing it to near the tang or the outside edge. I'll contemplate it a bit. <br><br>I suppose I could fashion a slip loop that would be attached to the back of the sheath and over the hilt, but there's nopt much size differentiation to prevent it from slidding off.<br><br>BTW, the knife sits way down in the sheath with only the last inch of the handle being exposed. So it is a tight, secure fit. But Murphy's Law usually does prevail!<br><br>I'll ask Ragnar about that and the leather treatment.<br><br>Oh, regarding engraving, would one of those shopping mall places be suitable or should I look elsewhere. (great idea, BTW).

I may be the minority opinion here, but I don't think you need to worry too much about retaining a knife in one of those nordic-style sheaths... and while I've used lanyards on knives (on the water), I hate them.<br><br>I've used a variety of sheaths that come half-way up the handle or further, and I've never had one come out accidently, even when they were very loose. The more the sheath can swing freely, the more secure the knife is. It takes some getting used to, but.. have you ever seen ANY old time/primitive sheath with a retainer? (Ok, yes, I know the Vikings tied their swords into their scabbards, but that was only when they were going to be drinking..). If nothing else, you're enforcing that it will always take two hands to retrieve it- not always a good thing- possibly, someday, a very bad thing.<br><br>As for lanyards... as I say, I have used them on and in the water, where if you drop it, it's history.. but short of that, I would never bother. They're always in the way, and they get hung up on things. If you do actually drop it, having a (hopefully) very sharp knife suddenly swinging around your legs is not a great thing either... and on the trail, how far is it likely to go even without a lanyard?<br><br>I think they're mostly useful to prevent loss. An old timer that I used to camp with now and then as a teenager cured me of that problem on the trail- he would smack me on the head every time I put a knife down. He insisted that you NEVER lay a knife down, even for a second- it went back in the sheath or pocket, or even teeth, if you needed both hands. Once you REALLY rid yourself of the habit of setting a knife down, they don't disappear any more.<br>

<<Oh, regarding engraving, would one of those shopping mall places be suitable or should I look elsewhere>> Bill, I take knives to a local jeweler's (non-mall) for knife engraving. They do a great job and only charge me $5/knife for firstname mi. lastname Regards, Tom

Bill,<br><br>It sounds like you've gotten a couple of really nice knives. I think you'll like using a fixed blade sheath knife. They're unbeatable for really demanding jobs due to their simplicity, strength, & total security against accidental closure or mechanical failure. :-) <br><br>By the way, are fixed blade knives really that unfamiliar to you? Just look around your kitchen. :-)<br><br>I'm inclined to agree with Presumed that if your knife is nearly swallowed by the sheath, it is unlikely to fall out. Of course, I don't know what kind of acrobatics you plan to do while wearing it. You may be a much more active scouter than I have seen before.<br><br>Good luck with your son's scouting use of a sheath knife. You may want to photocopy generously the entire page out of the handbook on the policy for both of you to carry. A photocopy of what is obviously the handbook is mandatory authority on this issue. Make sure your son is fluent on the policy, the rationale, and the argument in case he is challenged.<br><br>How long is the handle on the boy's knife?<br><br>Best scouting wishes,<br><br>John

Ragnar basically echoed your thoughts that the deep sheath was sufficient. He also added something about Chris' sanity if he used a lanyard on a knife, unless he was up in the rigging (which he may well be on some days)!!! :-)<br><br>>>>You may be a much more active scouter than I have seen before.<<<<br><br>Hah! I doubt it VERY much! ;-)<br><br>>>>How long is the handle on the boy's knife?<br><br>4 inches.<br><br>BTW, one of my co-workers used to be in the jewelry trade. He still has a good friend that does ingraving and hand-etching. Besides adding his name to the blade, I'm considering ading a small design, perhaps the fleur d'leis, the international symbol od scouting.

O.K. I typed faster than I thought. Ragnar and Presumed are correct about lanyards. I meant to suggest a short string tied to the sheath and handle and not a true lanyard. I do use them on the ocean. My Finnish knife set is so deep in the scabbard merely the flaired pommels are visible. These are dedicated snow knives and are worn under my coat. Now I have to email Ragnar and redeem myself.

Just my two cents.<br><br>My first knife was a SAK classic and I was 8. I cut myself with it that day and was treated with a bandaid. Each subsequent "mistake" was a lesson painfully won with little real consequence. I still think this is a fine first knife. As far as a real knife, I am partial to an inexpensive neck knife such as a CUDA,CRKT Stiff Kiss MDP, or the like. I personally wouldn't recommend serrations for a first knife.