Recently I`ve been looking at Ontario Rat-7 and the RTAK the Rat-7 comes in either 1095 or D2 and the RTAK only 1095.

As far as steel goes how do those rate for durability? The knife is large and if used regularly to chop, clear, cut will it hold and edge and NOT break/crack/shatter ?

What are GOOD steels to have in knives?

I`ve found http://www.admiralsteel.com/products/blades.html but it doesn't specify qualities of each type?

Thanks!
-Todd

The choice of steels is a religious question for many. In fact, I think some people take it more seriously than their religions... <img src="/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

You should check the Steel FAQ at BladeForums.com, which has plenty of info.

The bottom line is that steel is complicated. Some steels may hold an edge but be too brittle. They may also be difficult to sharpen, e.g., S30V. On the other hand, some steels may be softer, meaning they are less likely to chip, but they won't hold an edge as well. On the plus side, they may be easier to sharpen.

Whether you get D2 or 1095, be sure to dry them off after every use, particularly the 1095, because they can rust. Also, heat treating can make more of a difference than the choice of steel itself, and you have to rely on the manufacturer to check for quality.

Bottom line is that you probably can't go wrong with either, but it really depends what you're after.

Thanks!

And for those interested that don't want to read...

The 10-series -- 1095 (and 1084, 1070, 1060, 1050, etc.)
Many of the 10-series steels for cutlery, though 1095 is the most popular for knives. When you go in order from 1095-1050, you generally go from more carbon to less, from better edge holding to less edge holding, and tough to tougher to toughest. As such, you'll see 1060 and 1050, used often for swords. For knives, 1095 is sort of the "standard" carbon steel, not too expensive and performs well. It is reasonably tough and holds an edge very well. It rusts easily. This is a simple steel, which contains only two alloying elements: @.95% carbon and .4% manganese. The various kabars are usually 1095 with a black coating.

D-2
D-2 is sometimes called a "semi-stainless". It has a fairly high chrome content (12%), but not high enough to classify it as stainless. It is more stain resistant than the carbon steels mentioned above, however. It has excellent edge holding, but may be a little less tough than some of the steels mentioned above. And it does not take a beautiful finish. Bob Dozier uses D-2.

Fitz basically covered it.

What will say is that I've owned a bunch of knives over the years. Most of the live in my drawer, largely forgotten. The knives I put on my belt when I'm going off the pavement are one of my Ka-bars. 1095 might be a "standard" steel, but so long as you don't have saltwater around, it is hard to beat. I've never had that much of a problem with rust (read that as no problem), but even when I get wet, it is freshwater, with the exception of acid rain. .

D2 CAN beat it, for many times the cost. If you can spend the extra, do it. It is a great steel. But if you want a couple of identical blades, say one in the BOB, one in the car, one the earthquake/hurricane bag, then grab a couple of 1095s for one knife of the same design in D2.

My .02 on this, just as food for thought, most everything TOPS produces is in 1095 and those knives are some cutting machines. I have seen them firsthand take a load of abuse and remain nearly razor sharp. I also acknowledge the remark made earlier in this thread that steel choice is like a religion. Hope you find a winner.

Yeah, I think the cost is the big factor here. You can get a good 1095 knife like the Swedish Mora for $10, which is one heck of a knife for the money. A good D2 (like a Bob Dozier) will easily set you back $100+. If you can afford the difference, great. If not, don't have any regrets. If you take care of the 1095 steel and keep it dry, it'll last a long, long time. (Probably longer than you will <img src="/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />)

Lets compair apples to apples....

I can get a Ka-bar for about 50 bucks. I can get the D2 version for about 200. Easy equation if you are getting started.

The rat-7 is ~$15 more for the D2 over the 1095....
And the ka-bar is $150 more for same knife made w/D2 ? Why's the HUGE price difference for the ka-bar and not the RAT-7?

I ordered a RTAK which came in 1095 ONLY... but if I get it and like it I may get the RAT-7 in the D2 just to compare and have both... We`ll see.

Uh, sorry, but carbon Moras are not 1095, thank god. They are a proprietary swedish steel called Kolstal, which Jimbo calls "Sweish Mystery Steel." Whatever it is, it works.

I have one 1095 knife, a K-Bar 'shorty'. It is the only knife I have ever encountered that I could not bring to a decent edge. It is as slightly sharpened truck spring. Actually, think I could make a better knife out of a truck spring.

For what it's worth, I believe S30V is the best steel produced today, with D2 a close second, and Fallkniven's VG10 equal to either of them, just different. Note that Benchmade makes all the Ritter Grips and Reeve the Sebenza out of S30V.

You sound so sure of yourself, I hate to disagree but... <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

"Eriksson carbon steel blades (1095) are hardened to 60 on the Rockwell scale"

http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html

And I'm not so sure everyone else would say that S30V is the "best" steel produced today. At the very least, what about S90V? And S30V blades have been known to chip in ways that softer steels generally don't and they can be devilishly hard to sharpen. As I said above, this is a religious decision and everyone should experiment and find what works best for their particular needs.