Here is my list of favorites. I chose these knots for their versatility rather than knowing 200 knots that are perfect for only specific purposes.
1) Bowline on a Coil
2) Double Figure Eight
3) Clove Hitch with Quick Release
4) Water Knot
5) Munter Hitch
6) Swiss Seat
7) Hasty Rappel
8) Kleimheist
9) Tautline hitch
10) Double Sheet Bend

I believe any one or a combination of these will fill every emergency need.

Try a butterfly knot for an omni-directional loop, almost anywhere in a line. It allows for the creation of a quick 2:1 when you need to tighten up a load. There are two ways to tie a butterfly; with a little practice you can tie one in seconds.

Butterfly Knot



Pete

Cool thread idea. But one thing I've always found missing from lists like this is when to use a particular knot. And some discussion of when not to would be good too. I think it'd be great if we could just come up with maybe five knots and examples of when to use each.

Categories (maybe):

• Tie rope to post
• Join two pieces of rope
• Shorten a rope
• Tie two posts together
• Tie tent to tent peg (taut line hitch?)
• Loop at end that won't close up (bowline is the standard I think, but the Double figure of eight looks easier / faster to me.)

What are some other likely surivival scenarios requiring knots? Some knots may be compromises for certain situations, but I don't see myself remembering 10 knots and when to use 'em. Anyone have a good knot diagram in a wallet size?

I don't know what you call it, but the knot used to wrap cord around an object (like paracord around a staff or knife handle) is very useful and very simple.

I realize that knots are my passion and bread and butter for technical rescue work, but like anything worth doing (knife sharpening, fire starting, etc.), are worth doing well. Many knots have very unique characteristics, are better in some types of cordage/rope then others and may have significant pros and cons for use in different applications. I would suggest reading up, either from on-line sources or from one of the standard knots guides/manuals and then practice. That is the only way I know of to become both familiar with knot characteristics and knot tying proficiency.

The selection of the ” best” knot/hitch choices can be just as contentious as selecting the “best” knife, flashlight, multitool, etc.

For example I can think of 7 knots/hitches off the top of my head, to tie a rope to a post and I am sure there are many others:

Clove hitch
Figure 8 reweave
Bowline
Slipknot
Butterfly with half hitches
Several half hitches
Girth Hitch

Pete

Great subject!

I have a son that has gone from Tiger cub to Eagle Scout. I have learned most of the Scout knots. I am not familiar with several of the knots you have listed. To earn Boy Scout first class you have to demonstrate a few knots. I don’t know that these are the 10 most important. They are:
Square knot
Two half hitches
Taught-line
Timber hitch
Clove hitch
Bowline
Lash poles using:
Square, shear, and diagonal lashing.

I like the Fisherman’s knot for tying all line and cord together. I don’t trust the sheet bend. I have tied the double sheet bend. It is better but I still don’t trust it. I like the Bowline, Sliding Bowline, and Bowline on a bite. The Bowline will not fail. The taught-line and two half hitches are needed for pitching tents. The clove hitch is great for use with lashings. You can take 3 poles and lash them together, set them up, and you have a framework for a shelter. The Cow hitch is great for hanging things on a cord around your neck. The figure eight is a great stopper knot. I don’t remember the name but the slip knot used to tie horses is useful. You twist a loop and they pull a loop, and pull a loop through that. It locks in place and comes loose with a tug of the loose end. Also the trucker’s knot is good for securing things.

I've tried on and off to learn some knots. Bought some books, practiced, then lost most of it when I'd stop practicing. As a programmer, there's just not a lot of call to use what I've learned, so out it goes...

On one side, there are knot lovers who know a bajillion different knots and when to use 'em. On the other side are people who know two... Shoelace knot and granny knot. There has to be a way to transition from one to the other without learning all of it at once. From my own limited experience, I'd say something like:

• Tie a line to a pole? Double half hitch.
• Make a loop that won't close? Bowline.
• Tie tent to peg? Taut line hitch.
• Tie two ropes together? Figure eight.
• Quick way to "whip" rope or string? Blood knot.
• Tie a string on a package? Square knot (learn to tell the difference from a granny knot.)

It can't be all or nothing, or you'll have people using granny knots for everything and wondering why the tarp won't stay up.

I picked up a set of plastic cards (five, I think) from REI for 5 bucks and tied some line to it to practice the knots when I get bored. I forget the company that makes the cards.

Believe it or not but in face to face instruction most ppeople learn the bowline faster and can tie it faster that the double eight. There is trick for it. You can make an eye and pull a loop from the working through it. Push the loose end through that loop and size the bowline. Now you can pull on working end to get the knot tight. That´s it.
The bowline is easier to tie when you can´t reach over the top of the post.

Be aware Bowlines can and do fail. A Bowline can, under certain circumstances fail into a slip knot:

From: Bowline Stability

“The Secret Flaw of a Bowline
Many people are surprised that their beloved Bowline has a secret flaw. It holds securely when arranged and applied in the normal way, with the standing part attached at one end and a weight suspended from the loop at the other end. But jerking the tail of a Bowline to one side can deform it, just as with a Square Knot. If you happen to snag it so that the tail and the right leg of the loop are yanked hard in opposite directions, the structures may not be stable enough to resist deformation. The bight will straighten out and disappear. The hitch that circles the bight will be transformed into a slip knot which has little squeezing power- as well as little to squeeze against. The deformed hitch will not be able to create enough friction to hold and can be easily stripped off. Every time I demonstrate this phenomenon to a group, someone responds "Wow," and someone else calls out "Do that again." “
Additional Info:

Bowline Security

Bowline Breaking


If using a Bowline add a single or better yet a double overhand knot with the running end to the loop part, just above the primary knot (part “L” of the diagram) and snug it against the primary knot.

Pete

I like to tie knots. I guess this really shows, if you look at my long list of favorites below! Astericks indicate my "go to" knots for the most part. Not necessarily the "best" (there is no such thing), but the ones I use most often. Coincidently, those asterick knots add up to ten, so I did end up addressing the OP's question (by accident though!)

(1) Bends - for tying two ropes together: the *Zeppelin Bend or it's close relative the Hunter's Bend (a.k.a. Rigger's Bend) Other favorites are the Shake Hands (less well known) and the Butterfly Bend. Double Fisherman's is good too.

(2) End Loops: *Angler's Loop (a.k.a Perfection Loop), Butterfly Loop, Double Dragon, Eskimo Bowline, ABOK #1045 (unnamed, described as "Another Compact Loop" by Ashley)

(3) Middle Loops: *Alpine Butterfly

(4) Double Loops: *ABOK #1100 (unnamed AFAIK, but I call it "Double Butterfly Loop")

(5) Sliding Loops and Nooses: *Exploding Sliding Sheet Bend, Adjustable Grip Loop, Scafford Knot

(6) Hitches - for tying rope to a post: *Buntline Hitch, *Round Turn And Two Half Hitches, Ground Line Hitch (rope-to-rope knot actually)

(7) Bindings - for holding things together: *Slipped Constrictor, Boa Knot, Pole Lashing

(8) Stoppers - for keeping a rope from sliding out of a hole: *Ashley's Stopper

(9) Misc: *Marlinspike Hitch

Have to agree with the Hunter rather than the fisherman's - much easier to untie once it has been under load. I use it on the spinny sheets on my dinghy.

You guys are too esoteric! Stick to knots you can teach a boy in about 5 minutes.

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Look at the Ritter PSK sheet:
Polomar knot
Figure 8 loop
Bowline
Taught line
Constrictor
Fisherman?s knot (not labeled)

<img src="/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

1) Bowline on a Coil: Quickest, securist knot I know to tie around a persons waist when a split second is critical.

2) Double Figure Eight: Maintains ropes strength, can be used in the middle of a rope for connecting climbers, z drags, c drags, ect.

3) Clove Hitch with Quick Release : usefull for tying small diameter cord as its a strong knot and easy to untie.

4) Water Knot: Tie sling material together.

5) Munter Hitch: Rappelling and Belaying. Can be tied to load end to secure.

6) Swiss Seat: creates a harness out of rope or webbing.

7) Hasty Rappel: Term I created for a no harness rapell with a prusik as a break and the rapeller's arms as a friction device.

8) Kleimheist: Friction knot. It can use webbing or cord versus the prusik which only uses cord.

9) Tautline hitch. anwhere you need an adjustable cord, tent guys, etc.

10) Double Sheet Bend. Ties two ropes together of different diameters. Ties cord to a tarp without grommets.


I don't suggest only learning these 10. I know perhaps a hundred different knots, most of which are more suitable. As ten knots go I think these are fairly simple, no gimmick knots that anyone could learn in an hour or two of practise. As such, they are easier to remember when the pressure's on.

Of course, back up all your knots with overhands, half hitches, or double fisherman's.

Only carry cheat sheets for when your unconscious. Ten minutes a day of practise could save your life. Besides, tying knots is fun.

I've made my own cards from color photocopies. Download from the web, shrink or expand to size, do a little cleaning up of the picture in Paint, put them all on a strip of paper, laminate and accordian fold .

ooh! where can I down load knot info sheets/ cards?

TRO

"Stick to knots you can teach a boy in about 5 minutes."

Oh. The OP didn't ask that!

But if those are the knots you're after, I'd recommend "The Twist-a-Roo", "The Granny", and "The Wad It, Weave It, and Tangle It Special"

<img src="/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

"ooh! where can I down load knot info sheets/ cards?"

A couple of links:

http://www.layhands.com/Knots/Index.htm scroll about 2/3 way down to "Site Map" for easy navigation

http://www.realknots.com/links/A.htm A fairly comprehensive A-Z listing

http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/writing/explode.htm some pretty neat "easy to untie" knots

The heavyweight in the printed book category is "The Ashley Book of Knots" (often referred to as "ABOK") by Clifford Ashley. This thing probably weights more - and costs more - than your car, but well worth it if you're really into knots. My first impressions of this book were "I think I paid too much for this". It doesn't have the fancy color pictures of other knot books (drawings only). It also contains things that you'll initially write off as "I'll never do that". But as I've read and used it over time, you couldn't pry it from my fingers now.

Another quite decent book (with lots of pretty pictures!) is "The Ultimate Encyclopedia of Knots and Ropework" by Geoffrey Budworth. The good thing about this one is that you'd be hard pressed to NOT find it in your local Barnes and Noble bargain section for under $10 (sometimes under $6 for smaller versions - same content, just physically smaller) While the pictures are pretty, sometimes the photographer has zoomed in too close and you can lose track of where you are in the knot. This is fairly minor and I really had no trouble working from the photos.

"The Directory of Knots" by John Shaw can be a relatively easy find in the Borders Bookstore bargain section for under $10. This one uses drawings rather than photos to illustrate the knots, so the wow factor of the photos in Budworth's book isn't there, it's probably easier to follow the sequence. This one is spiral bound, so it will lay open flat to every page, which is a big bonus when both your hands are working with the knot.

"The Morrow Book Of Knots" (correct title?) is another bargain section find that I've heard many people like, but I don't have it. I've seen it, but decided it was too much duplication given the other books I own. This one is inexpensive also.

My initial learning came from the Budworth book, then the Shaw, then Ashley's. I know Budworth has lots and lots of other knot books published, but I can only comment on the one I mentioned above.

I used to be able to do a square knot when I was a cub scout about a hundred years ago, but can't even remember that now -- I am woefully unprepared if I need to do a knot other than shoelaces

Trying to drive us nuts?

Let's exclude climbing and related high-angle rescue work for a moment - just dropping climbing will eliminate 1/2 the potential arguements.

For example, I like and trust most of the bowline family. There are varients that eliminate the problems Pete mentions. I also use - for various reasons - the figure 8 family, usually just for climbing. But one thing I hate about figure 8 vs bowline is that after a heavy strain, some figure 8s are practically impossible to un-knot, vs a bowline which can always be un-knotted. Once upon a time climbers used bowlines. New crop (to me) hates bowlines. Wheels turn... they both are useful.

1. So - bowline family is on my list.

2. Also figure 8 family (I know - I'm cheating - but once you know a couple of variants of knots, they stick in one's head easily enough)

3. Alpine Butterfly and variants is exceptionally useful but seems like few folks outside of climbers bother to use it. Usually pretty easy to untie and there are a couple of tricks in the tying for cases where a stretchy rope (like laid nylon) is going to put a large strain on the butterfly, which otherwise could be a bear to untie afterwards. Not much a problem with lower stretch ropes. Anyway, this is a must-know knot family. (I just saw a new one to me thru this thread - the Alpine butterfly bend, and I REALLY like that - obvious once I saw it.)

4. Prusik knots (single and double), tied either way. Too often overlooked and is far more versitile than most realize. Forget about prusiking (I use others if I have 'biners) - if you look for uses in the real world, it will cover tons of situations that otherwise require more specialized knots. This can do many things well - too many to list, so go play.

5. Double Fisherman's aka double grinner knot - there are some obvious variations. About the only knot I use to form slings with cords and ropes. That is, permanent slings - it is a beast to un-knot after a heavy load.

6. Clove hitch and related knots.

7. Sheet bend and double sheet bend - yes, I know of many current arguments about better bends, but for many situations these are great knots, especially if the lines will be in constant tension. For example, making an expedient shelter with a membrane that has no grommets or torn-out grommets - make the bight in the membrane and the loop with the guyline.

8. Tautline hitch (OK - there's one that's better for the same situations, but this is the 3rd knot my Dad taught me, it works, and I have to teach it to my scouts anyway). Sometimes I cheat and do a prusik hitch instead - see #4, above - but 99% of the time, a tautline.

9. Water knot (to me) aka tape bend aka overhand bend - one of the few bends I use for tubular nylon, webbing, or other flat material.

10. Lashings in general. If you're a scout, you may be hung up on a handful and think they must only be used as stipulated in the handbook. Use lashings enough and find out that it's the principle involved that matters, not so much exactly which one is used when there is a choice. Learn 4-5 basic ones and you can handle many situations well enough and re-invent/improvise most other situations. Also try out different cordages - some suck in certain uses and you have to learn how to compensate for their properties. You also figure out pretty quickly that lashing something practical takes a lot of cordage AND that you can fairly well standardize on pre-cut lengths that will handle lashings as well as other chores and - well, a whole lot of useful things best learned before you need to apply the knowledge.

Some things are too obvious to merit listing - like two (or more) half-hitches (works great in chain, too). Round turns and/or wraps in conjunction with a hitch. Reef (square) knots have limited applications... (I HATE that we have to teach that one early on in scouts - it's a very limited-use knot and too many folks mis-use it as a bend). etc etc

Ask me when I'm climbing and my short list will change. I probably have 50-60 bends, hitches, knots, etc. jammed in the front of my brain and another 30-40 wandering around in the back of my cluttered mind, so I'm not a knot-demon like some folks. However, I enjoy learning new ones and if I like one well enough, it either gets added to my routine list or displaces one on my routine list.

I'll second the earlier book mentions. Of the noteworthies, I tend to favor Budworth's books a bit.

That's my list, sort of. Until it changes.

Thanks A LOT for the web site. I'm kind of a knot freak.

Mine are called "proKnot" from www.proknot.com, 800-809-0341

Yep - those are the ones I have - the rope ones.

1. Square Knot

2. Zeppelin Bend

3. Bowline / Double Bowline / Triple Bowline

4. Constrictor Hitch

5. Figure 8 knot

6. Water Knot (or Tape Knot)

7. Sailor's Hitch

8. Full WIndsor Knot (for ties)

9. Sheep Shank

10. Slip Knot

"Believe it or not but in face to face instruction most ppeople learn the bowline faster and can tie it faster that the double eight. There is trick for it. You can make an eye and pull a loop from the working through it. Push the loose end through that loop and size the bowline. Now you can pull on working end to get the knot tight. That´s it."

This is the way I usually tie my bowlines as well. Although occassionally I'll fall back to the way I learned in Boy Scouts, "Make the letter b, then bring the rabbit out of his hole, around behind the tree, and back into the hole."

Anyway, be aware that the "pull a loop" method you mention can result in several different versions of the bowline. If you pull your initial loop from the standing end, you will end up with either a "normal" bowline or a "left handed" bowline, depending on which direction you then feed the running end through. A left handed bowline is considered inferior to a normal one. And if you pull your initial loop from the working end, you'll end up with an "eskimo" bowline or an unamed (AFAIK) eskimo bowline variant depending on the direction of feed for the final running end tuck.

My advice would be, if someone likes the "pull a loop" method and they're a beginner, let them make it however they can remember it, not worrying about which variant they will end up with. And then instruct them to ALWAYS finish off the knot with a good tight security overhand knot attaching the running end to it's adjacent rope. Thus if they inadvertantly end up with a left handed bowline, it is improved by the overhand so that they don't have to agonize over whether they originally tied the "best" variant in the first place. This should be good enough for general use of the bowline.