I try to keep my matches as dry as posible but sometimes they do get damp. Is there a way to dry them and what is the best surface to strike them on that you can carry besides the box?

The stuff on the side of the box is probably the best I've found so far- guard it from moisture.

As for the matches, several people make simple plastic cases. Really good would be a metal one, but some are a PITA to get open. Tuck a bit of the striker in with them, with the striking surface against the wall of the case. I actually carry the striker in a similiar but different colored case that has my odd bits in it, like the sewing needles, so that there is no way it can light the matches. Down side is that if I loose that one, the thing of matches is out of luck....

I know I need to come up with a better way. I just don't like the idea of a friction-triggered bomb in my pack, even if it is a little one.

I use the strike anywhere matches that are getting harder to find but are still available in many areas. Coating them with clear fingernail polish seems to make them resist moisture a little better. Some people use wax or varnish to coat them, as several things seem to work. I store them in a 2oz Nalgene bottle to keep them dry. There are match cases available but my bottle is very waterproof and holds more matches. You can keep a little tinder and a striking surface in the bottle as well. I once used a 4oz bottle to make a complete fire starting kit that included matches, tinder, fire steel and lighter but found the 4oz bottle a little big to carry around all the time.

Cut two striker panels and face the striking surfaces together. Wrap the pair in saran wrap before you place them in the container with the matches.

Also, enamels (most nail polishes are enamels) will degrade the head of an SA match in a short period of time. A spray lacquer or fingernail lacquer works much better, much longer...

M

Some 400-600 grit gp sandpaper or emery cloth ought to make a darned good striking surface. Matches are one of those things that I think those vac & seal machines were made for. Also, I've wrapped matches in waxed paper and rubber bands before, that works pretty well. Coating match heads with vaseline does not work.

I've heard of the "match case bomb" effect, but is it really likely? Is there enough oxygen within the match case to create a bomb effect?

<img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Has anyone ever tried it? <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Sue

It happens. While not as dangerous as an exploding disposable lighter, mainly due to the rugged cases and limited fuel, You do know about it <img src="/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />. Unless your getting the handmade lifeboat matches, the best plan is to keep your matches dry. The best brands employ a chemical mixture that will in time degrade. Maybe not as fast as our stored water, but they will. Safety matches were declared a HAZMAT item. The now exorbitant shipping costs forced many retailers to drop them from inventory. The old strike anywheres were discontinued because the heads were used in improvised explosives. The old nitrocellulose films were used this way in several revolutions and a few Federalis went up courtesy of Charlie Chaplin <img src="/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />. Gear that needs a little mothering is not inferior. If you take the time to protect your matches, your less likely to wade blindly into a Yukon river without thinking first and might avoid drowning <img src="/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

A metal match case has always been the way to go for me.

I've carried the silver one on the right for years filled with strike anywhere matches. Haven't had an "explosion" yet. (My experience only - YMMV )

I recently acquired a couple of K & M Matchcases (left). They seem to be everything you could want in a match case.

The inside surface of the plug is specially textured to serve as a striker. I have also experimented with the knurling on the case itself and it works just fine as a striker too.

I've read of it happening, and I had a close call once. I had used some of my matches on a camping trip, with the strip of striker turned to face the case. Opened it up, and the striker was in the middle of them all. It must have shifted during the day. Nothing happened, but since that was my only thing of matches at the time, I consider it a close enough call.

The odds are low, super low, particularly if you don't do things like toss your pack off a cliff or anything so silly. I used the time bomb reference becuase becuase no matter how unlikely something is, if it can happen, it will if you wait long enough. While I have no problem with taking risks, if I can minimise them, I do so. Particularly if they are ones you didn't plan for. *shrugs* I hate suprises.

I use the plastic orange waterproof match cases with an O-ring seal. I glue a cutout of the striker strip from the side of the box to the Inside, top of the case. I then store the waterproof matches iginition side down, in the case. I my mind this should eliminate any chance for an accidental iginition from friction, plus there should be almost no oxygen in the case to support combusion.

Michael

I use the same ones, with an OD one for the "widget tube". I seem to snap about a quarter of them, and another quarter never light.

What do you that I'm not? <img src="/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Chris:

I thought the exploding BIC was an urban myth? Is there any valid documentation for such an event? What were the circumstances?

The only thing I can can think of was something I saw happen: bunch of guys standing around talking in cold weather. Guy is idly playing with lighter in his pocket, flicking the 'child proof' fuel tab down. Then, for reasons he can't explain, flicked the flint wheel on the lighter while still in his pocket. His pocket went up pretty good, but it was by no means an explosion.

I'll answer Susan's question first. You don't need O2 for the head of the matches to ingnight or burn. The compounds involved have their own oxidizer so they flare. Only when it comes to the stick part does it need an outside sorce of air.

Buckey has it right glue the striker strip to the inside of the cap so it staysand is available for use. Then put the matches head end down. If the tips are at the other end they can't touch the striker strip.

If you use strik anywhere matches almost any surface rough dry surface will work. But in wet weather anything outside a sealed unit just might be damp. This would ruin the chances and the match.

If you use safety matches you have to use the box striker strip as it has half the chemical compound that makes them ignite.

I know that dipping a match in paraffin will water proof matches. I have also heard but have personally tried Thompsons Waterseal works well. This wouls not significantly increase the match sizes as the paraffin will. I do know that over time the paraffin will degrade the matches. I haven't heard the long term effects of the Thompsons. But because matches are such a necessity they should be checked regularly. If there is any sign of degridation the need to be replaced.If either method is used you must coat the entire match not just the head. If the stick is not treated and is exposed to water it will avt as a wick. Ending in a wet head and a ruined match. Another option is to go the expensive route and purchase wind and waterproof commercial brand. The best of which are lifeboat matches.

Either a sealable, meaning one with an O ring gasket, match container or vacume packing bundles with a sealing machine is a good method to kep them dry.

If you are like me, a belt and suppenders type, you water proof the matches and then store them in a waterproof case just to be sure they work when thing get critical.

Because fire can be so necessary I think everyone should carry at least 3 different methods to start them. Plus the primitive skills to start them with no modern aid. I.E. several different fire by friction skills. For modern fire starting I personally do not concider matches an option. For the same amount of space of 20 matches which would start about 20 fires. 40 if you are skilled enough to split matches. For that space I can pack a disposabe lighter that will start hundreds if not thousands of fires. Even when the fuel runs out it can still act as a flint and steel source. As I am a smoker and use mine every day I carry a full one as a backup. Then there are the modern flint and steel rod or rod magnisium bar combos. Many smallere than 10 or so matches. I also carry a fresnel lens in my wallet to start one when the sun is shining.

Sorry to be so long winded I'm a natural firebug.

There is a common type of accidents with disposable lighters. When people carry them while welding the sparks can melt into the fuel tank. When another one comes with the proper timing the fuel can explode. This is why its not allowed to carry disposable lighters for welding. I have seen on one occasion that a lighter was melted by a welding spark. The owner of the lighter was lucky as the gas was not ignited.

In the Navy, we were not allowed to have bic type lighters in the forward hold near the access to the sonar dome aboard our destroyer. This is because on one ship someone's lighter fell out of their pocket and down the tube 4 stories into the sonar dome and it went off and blew the sonar equipment all to heck.

You can detonate any flammable liquid/gas with enough compression.

"But in wet weather anything outside a sealed unit just might be damp."

When all else is wet, don't forget that your zipper (metal or plastic) can be used as a striker for Strike Anywheres. Just don't light your Levis on fire!

Interesting. We used to make Bic style lighters "explode" by hurling them against concrete. (it was actually more like a "pop" than a "boom")

But that was back when I was young and foolish - - Now I'm old and foolish. <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

>>>QUOTE:But that was back when I was young and foolish - - Now I'm old and foolish. <<<<

"You might not be able to stay young but you can always remain immature" - Red Green

For a striker, John Wayne used the seat of his britches or his fingernail! He didn't have a zipper, or sandpaper, or............. <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

According to www.snopes.com, the story of welders being killed when a spark ignited their Bic lighter is false; no such fatal accident has ever been recorded, as far as they could discover. However, there have been several cases of such lighters exploding due to overheating (a salesman in Belgium lost his car when 500 lighters, that he had left in his car on a hot day, ignited) .

The only known fatality due to an exploding Bic lighter was a 66-year old woman, whose family sued Bic for $11 million, claiming that the lighter had blown up in her hand (presumably it was defective). The case was settled out of court, and the results of the settlement were sealed.

So, on the one hand, it seems to be safe to carry them in your pocket while welding; on the other, it seems to be quite dangerous to store them in your car, or even carry them in your pocket, on a hot day. <img src="/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

http://www.snopes.com/horrors/techno/lighters.htm

This thread seems to have evolved from matches to butane lighters. FWIW, I have had probably 15-20 butane lighters scattered amongst my hunting equipment for several years. They all have electronic ignition. I recently gathered them all up to see if they still worked. To my surprise, most all the brands would no longer light with the exception of the Cricket lighters, all of which lighted. I checked the other brands one by one and found that they still had gas and would light by holding the thumb lever down and using another fire source to light them. So, the conclusion is that the electronic lighting mechanism had failed as they all still lighted when ignited with a seperate fire source. I will replace the defective ones with new Crickets. I would recommend that any one with butane lighters with some age on them check them to see if they are still operational. <img src="/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

That is why the ones I carry are flint fired. Plus even without gas you have the flint sparks available. The reason they are not allowed on planes is that planes are one pressurized to between 5 and 10 thousand feet. Most lighters are set to operate at 1000 or lower. Even if it is adjustable that is where most people set them. At the lower pressure they put out an almost blowtorch flame. Very disconcerting. Now with the overblown security they figured any butane source could be used to inflate a container to make a bomb. The explosion from one is not that impressive but several combined could be significant.

But even the the venerable Zippo will cause prioblems if it is overheated. Throw any lighter in a fire is not a wise thing to do. And most problems you here about is some ding dong playing with it in his pocket. If a tight weave the gas can build up and can cause a respectable fire ball in a very disconcerting location.

On most disposables the biggest hit most people clam is they leak and are dead after long storage. Usually this is because of the way such as packing in a small kit they are stored. What ends up happening is the fuel release level is slightlty depressed. Being aware of this and taking the precaution solves this. I found a lighter in a jacket that I haven't used in about 5 years. It still works fine.

The accident scenario with welders usually involves confined spaces and an acetylene torch. Due to the confined space the core of the flame is dipped into the molten material. This will result in a small explosion wich sends a shower of big hot sparks into the vicinty. Again due to the confined space some will always find a way to enter the pockets. Those sparks have enough heat and energy to melt through the tank of a disposable lighter OR ignite the butane gas. After the first hit the gas leaks into the clothing and can be ignited there. With the proper timing this causes a small fire. The resulting injuries are first degree burns or if you´re really unlucky second degree burns. In the vicinity of the pant pockets this would be bad anyway.
The manufacturers warn that the disposable lighter should not be kept at temperatures above 60°C. That temperature is easily reached in a parked car on a hot summer day. So it´s no surprise that leaving it there is an accident waiting to happen.

Raspy, flint was the very reason I went to electronic lighters. I have had, over the years, several flint lighters where the flint degraded so badly that it actually turned to powder. I guess there are good and bad in all butanes. Just a matter of finding the right combination. But, based on all past experiences, from now on I am going with electronic Crickets. I have not had one to fail yet. Only thing I don't like about Crickets is that some of them do not have a flame adjustment lever on them.

Yep. I still love the much denigrated Zippo.

Why electric ignition??? Go with flint & spark wheel, it won't "die" without use, the flints almost always outlast the fuel, and you've still got a viable source of spark after the fuel's gone to fall back on in an emergency, not to mention, that a flint lighter is a lot easier to dry out and use after an accidental dunking than an electric ignition.

Troy

At Philmont Scout Ranch, in Cimarron, NM, the horse wranglers would check each scout to make sure there were no lighters or matches in their pockets. All that friction against the saddle resulted in one scout having a tragic experience many years back.

Yes. There is nothing as dangerous as a scout that is able to make a fire--unless it's one with a blade. <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Regards, Vince

To get back to the original posting, I have put paper matches in water overnight and then tried to dry them out. More often than not, the match head actually dissolves away and you are left with nothing to dry out but perhaps a slight residue embedded in the match head. I doubt very much it would be possible to strike them again; I imagine it would be the same for wooden safety matches as well. The match head seems to undergo some sort of physical or chemical change and becomes very crumbly. If there's enough of it left, you might be able to ignite it with a spark or a magnifying glass, but I don't remember if I've ever tried that.

I read that the older strike-anywhere could be dried out and then struck on the original striker paper, or any rough surface. However, I don't know if the author of that book had ever done it himself. (A lot of early survival manuals were compiled by people who hadn't actually tried the techniques for themselves, I suspect.)

It would be simple enough to experiment with some matches - drop them in water for varying lengths of time (1 minute, 5 minutes, 1 hour, overnight) and see if you can dry them out and strike them successfully.

A solution you may want to consider is using a different brand of matches (ie: NATO or REI waterproof matches) or just keeping your current brand of matches dry (ie: a different match case or carry method)

It could be all you need.


* NATO / REI matches

* Match Cases

As a child we would intentionally make bic lighters explode. Yes they will explode. One time I also (very carefully) packed a cheap hollow (diecast metal) handle "survival" knife (with a rubber o-ring seal) tight with matches and strikers and threw it about 10'-15' in to a fence post. The knife hit blade first and stuck in the fence post and the handle also exploded on impact. <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Hutch for posting the K&M case alongside your old Marbles.

I once made a shotgun shell case matchcase...I forced two 12g spent hulls over a bundle of Diamond Strike-Anywheres...using a hammer because a 12 year old with only two 12g hulls must use creativity (or at least force) to make those things "slide" over each other.

Well I can attest to the matchcase bomb effect with near smoking eyebrows.

I have been a fan of a metal "Purpose-Designed" case ever since.

If anyone is interested in the K&M cases shown above please PM me.

I have read that you can dry damp matches by placing them in your hair so the heat of your scalp dries them. Don't know if this would work with really soaked matches though.

I hesitate to admit that I have dried them in a food dehydrator once they have absorbed too much moisture from the air. They do not strike as well as before they got damp but most did work. I now keep all matches in Ziploc bags so I don’t have to worry about that so much. They were very old when I dried them out but still worked. I have since replaced most of them as 15-year-old matches are getting long in the tooth for me.