Anyone out there have any personal experiences with the KA-BAR Utility/Fighting knife?<br>I am in the process of purchasing a black KA-BAR and I would like your feedback on this product.<br>I know that this knife is NOT acceptable for EDC, unless your out in the boonies, but any feedback is appreciated.<br>Thanks for your time.<br><br>

I think it is a good knife based on limited experience with it, It was razor sharp and I had to dig with it and it stayed sharp. What are you looking for fighting or general use. For fighting big blade that is strong, made of good metal, and most important LITE ( K-BAR WT. 1lb ).<br> Good day, God bless.<br>

By "black k-bar" do you mean one of the "next generation" versions? All "k-bars" are not created equal. The Ontarios are notorious for snapping at the hilt. The Camillus will do this but not as frequently. The K-bar made knives are considered the best made .This is rather informal data gathered by several users and my own experience. Of course, they snapped after being accidently dropped, used as a pry bar or digging in adobe soil. This is abuse not use. The next generation knives have some improvements; lanyard hole, half guard, partial serrations and materials. If you decide 7" is a bit much, there is a nice 51/2" version available in the classic model.

Chris is right, not all "k-bars" are equal. But "k-bars" are NOT Ka-Bar MkII C/UK. (Actually, it was origionally going to be a Fighting/Utilty Knife, and while it is a good description of your status if you take one in the belly, it doen't s look good. )<br><br>I swear by the Ka-Bar made MkIIs. I've carried a full sized, stacked-leather handeld one as part of my woods kit for years. It's been used for everything you can use a knife for except surgery, and lot of things it never should have been used for (wire cutter, can opener, hacking, etc). And every time, the edge comes back and lasts for a long time. <br><br>I've never had an issue with rust, and for a long time it was EDC in a shoulder harness, so if rust was likely, it would have shown up. <br><br>I actually like the leather handle better than the Next Generation ones- i've had my hands coated in various liquids, gels, slimes and "ick"s, in subzero wind chills and air temps, and never frozen my hand to it. It also feels more "alive"- I own MkIIs with synthetic handles from Onatrio (thier Spec PLus and thier USMC 2020 models), and they aren't as responsive. It may be from the desity effecting the ballence, or it might just be that I'm a little nuts. :)<br><br>But I would recommend it, instantly. It is without a doubt, the best knife I own. If wasn't already lined up for an urn, I'd be buried with my Ka-bar.

I personally feel that the blade is a little light for its length, so it doesn't chop (if you need to) as well as other blades. The one I had was difficult to sharpen, seemed to be as hard as a file. Don't remember who made it, I traded it away many years ago. I didn't like the round shape of the stacked leather handle, so filed it to an oval shape, and shortened the top portion of the cross guard. For a knife of that size I much prefer my Cold Steel Recon Scout...

Sounds like a Camillus contract model from the 60s or 70s, if it was that hard.<br><br>A Ka-Bar "k-bar" uses 1095 (IIRC) carbon, which makes it easy to sharpen, and is a little denser than the high-chromium crud that Camillus uses. Cam's are a little better these days, but not enough for me to use them as anything other than throwing knives.

what is its WT?

I appreciate all of the feedback on my inquiry. I just picked up my KA-BAR today and I could not be any more satisfied or impressed.<br><br>To answer your question, Chris, this one is an original product from KA-BAR Knives, Inc. They have a Black KA-BAR line that they started not too long ago, I think. The knife consists of a black oval shaped Kraton G thermoplastic elastomer handle (instead of the traditional leather) and the blade (HRC 56-58) is an epoxy powder coated, high carbon steel (1095). I suppose that the only difference between the Black and Original KA-BARs, is the material on the handle.<br> <br>I was a little disappointed about the lack of RAZOR sharpness in the blade when I received it, but I ran the blade through my tungsten steel sharpener and with a few strokes it was shaving hair. All in all, I am very satisfied with my new toy.<br>If anyone would like to find out more about the Black KA-BAR line, check out www.ka-bar.com.<br>Again, thanks for the info.<br><br>

To answer your question, I was looking for a general use knife that could also be a very effective fighter. Like I said before, I could not be more satisfied with this knife. <br>I appreciate your feedback. Thanks.<br>

Now get some paracord and make a lanyard loop or line. I like to connect a length to a belt loop and stuff it in a pocket. That way I won't snag it going through brush. If the knife is accidently dislodged I won't lose it.

Thanks for the tip. However, would the lanyard loop go around the bottom of the handle? Also, what do you think serves as the best rust preventative solution? The reason that I ask is that I am keeping the knife in the leather sheath and I've been told that moisture can accumulate on the blade. In the future, however, I plan on buying the Kydex sheath.<br>Anyway, thanks for the info (again). Your advice is appreciated.

I thought the "next generation" KA-BARS had a lanyard hole in the butt?! There are a multitude of advanced rust inhibitors and oils out there. Just remember to wipe them clean if you intend to process food.

I just looked at the Ka-Bar site so I know what Im talking about. I was thinking of the "next Generation" Ontarios. The Ka-Bars have no provision for lanyard attachment. the popular Australian bushknife modification consisted of chopping off the upper guard, reshaping the stacked leather handle to an oval shape and drilling a lanyard hole in the buttcap. None of these are really appropriate to your version. the upper handguard is needed in a fighting knife and drilling near the tang in that small buttcap calls for a talented machinist. The kydex sheaths are much better at retaining the knife, and if you wear it under clothing more secure yet. lanyards are usefull while brushpopping, but can oftentimes be as much a nuisance. Id just keep a length of paracord handy and throw a quick knot on the groove near the butt. The powder expoxy coating will work well against rust until worn. Black leather is a pita to maintain ( try a 4 in hand horse harness with brass fittings sometime. ) Until you get the kydex sheath just pickle it in a good waterproof conditioner like snowseal.

The early production stainless and kraton Mk2s from Ka-Bar has a teardrop shapped pommel, with the point drilled and smoothed for a lanyard loop. <br><br>Don't know if it's still part of the design or not, but I doubt they'd change the design- most grumpy letter that complained about carbon steel usually said something about lanyards, from what I've heard.

I have one made by Camillus and it is a descent knife for the money. The basic knife, whether it is made by Camillus, Ontario, or Kabar is made with 1095 steel. Camillus and Ontario make the knife to the government's mil-spec, round handle, pakerized finish. Ontario also makes a modified version under their spec plus line. Kabar's knives come with an oval handle and a powder coated blade. They also make a next generation series made from D2 steel. However, for not much more you can get the Becker Knife & Tool Combat/Utility 7 knife (which I also have). It is designed by Ethan Becker to replace the standard Marine Knife. It is made of a different high carbon steel, and it has a wider blade (spine to edge), but only weighs 2oz more. The blade length is about the same. I don't expect it to chop any better since it is still pretty light, but keeping the weight down was a design consideration. I feel that it is a much better knife. As an added benefit, the sheath has a pouch that will accomodate an altoids tin, if you have made a mini kit to fit in one. You can find it online for about $50.

Their specs say 15 oz. I don't have a scale that goes that light to confirm...<br><br>http://www.coldsteel.com/