Theres a misconception about splitting wood with any knife. Dedicated splitting tools are the steel wedge and sledge and shingle making froe and mallet. Even larger, thicker, Moran edge knives will get beat up trying to replicate these tools. The smart way, both for blade maintenance and conserving energy, is to start an initial split and then fabricate a wood, stone or bone wedge and beat on that. Any folding mechanism will fail given sufficient bending or torsion. The trick is to grip the knife to avoid this disaster. The loose forearm grip on longarms for accuracy is a good example. So, yes, your 806D2 will suffice. With two initial cuts made from opposite ends you can effectively split @ twice your blade's usefull length. It's not a RSK, so we make no garantees of butchering beached whales, rebuilding wrecked japanese floatplanes or splitting coconuts <img src="/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />