Ever wonder exactly how to use that Ez Awl? See this page, paragraphs 7-3 and 7-4 f:<br><br> Awl <br><br>Want to learn a little more on the topic of fabric repair? Start here:<br><br> FM 10-16 General Fabric Repair<br><br>If you prefer a PDF format to download, go here:<br><br> FM in PDF format<br><br>If you just want to extract a little info for later re-printing, use the HTML views (second link, above), highlight the stuff you want, [Copy], and [Paste] into your word processing program. Sometimes you'll have to re-copy the pics one at a time, but it's easy to figure out.<br><br>Those on tight budgets and those who need just exactly the "right" size stuff sack or whatever might want to consider a second-hand sewing machine. (Remember, guys, sewing machines are actually POWER TOOLS for piercing and fastening raw materials) If nothing is broken on the machine, worst case is you have to set the timing on it (sounds like automotive work, eh?) Ordinary household machines handle most normal fabrics up to and including coated cordura, denim, and light canvas. They will also bar-tack the heck out of webbing and 550 cord with the proper needle and thread, so non-life-safety equipment mods are very readily tackled (Do NOT contemplate making your own climbing harness, tho! Good ones are too cheap to risk making your own) Good sewing machines go for a song at garage sales these days...<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Scouter Tom

Metal working, sewing, what's next? <VBG><br><br>1. I have learned through my research for seed beeding (OA sash project still in process), that there is a better alternative to beeswax for conditioning thread. It a product called Thread Heaven that's a synthetic conditioner beaders use. Why is it better than beeswax? <br><br>"Beeswax leaves a sticky coating that causes the threads to drag against each other. Thread Heaven® adds an extremely slick coating that works like ball bearings to reduce drag. Less drag means less hand fatigue and less thread breakage. Also beeswax is acidic and over time breaks down the fibers of the thread, thus weakening it."<br><br>It also has other virtues that help strengthen your thread. More information on it can be found at: <br><br>http://www.sonic.net/~adambead/<br><br>2. I've seen the wooden saddlers sewing awl described in the FM 10-16 for sale at www.sportsmansguide.com for $18 (includes extra needles and waxed nylon thread. Is that a decent price?<br><br>3. I've never seen a sewing palm before. Where can you get them?<br><br>4. I have used the square shapped glovers needle for sewing leather with much success. I include one of them with my regular needles.

If you and I are thinking the same thing re the sewing awl, Tandy has it cheaper. Check this out...they are also a good source for needles, thread, etc. Can't help you with the palm, I haven't seen one in years, since they used to be in REAL army/navy surplus stores...<br><br>http://www.tandyleather.com/products.asp?dept=73

The sewing awl kit on the Tandy page is the same as the cheaper model on www.sportsmansguide.com, which I didn't mention. Tandy's is listed at $13 and Sportsmans is at $10. The one I was asking about holds the bobbin inside the handle instread of on a reel in the front. The in handle seemed to look more durable, but maybe I'm deluding myself and it makes little difference. Any thoughts?<br><br>BTW, the Sportsmans item numbers are WX0 - 1079 for the in handle and WX0 - 4909 for the external. The product page has a photo of both side by side.<br><br>Also, the URL you supplied shows a left handed sewing palm. I ran a search and found they carry right handed palms as well. Both ll for $15.<br><br>Thanks.

Willie,<br><br>I'll take your word for it about the beeswax! But I don't carry it with me and I don't think I've ever used it on thread that I can recall. FWIW, the time's I've had to use my awl in the boonies, it was for repairs to pack straps and the like. Nylon with nylon thead (parachute rigging repair thread from the rigger's shop; I only have a little bit, and don't ask <g>). My alternative repair thread is dacron (not dacron covered cotton) - both of which are fairly impervious to mild acids anyway. My next alternative is floss, which I think is linen (? someone help me out here - I don't carry the synthetic floss) and perhaps that would be a no-no - I don't really know. As most leather (certainly not all) is "acid tanned", I dunno what diff that might make over the long haul when repairing leather - not any kind of expert here. <shrug> the only beeswax I would have with me in the field would be whatever SnoSeal I might scrape up off my boot welt. Have not sewn with sinew, but it's one of those things I aim to try "just for the fun of it" sometime.<br><br>As for the awl itself - that does ot seem to be too far off on price - I think I saw them elsewhere a few days ago for around $12. Replacement needles seem to be awfully expensive everywhere I check, though, and I'm "in the market" for several of those.<br><br>As I mentioned, I have carried that awl for many years and have only needed to use it a few times - but boy, did I need it! (Or someone else in my party did). Pre-multi tools I used to carry, among onther things, a pair of needle nose pliers, and once I had to make a field repair using needles and thread, a thimble, and the pliers - I think I still have the scars from that one - broke a couple of needles, too. Dad's gear, we were 35 miles into trackless wilderness, and a week after we got back, an awl showed up in the mail from him - I've lugged it on every trip since then. Bulky little rascal, tho.<br><br>As for the rest of your questions, I'm an innocent bystander, honest! I'm barely competent enough to sew a button back on by hand or patch up some busted gear by hand. Back in the house, I can do workman-like stuff with a sewing machine, but it ain't pretty. When in doubt, run another line of stitches and back stitch everything... leans towards ugly but stout. That's all I know about the topic.<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Tom<br><br>

Knit one... Pearl two... ;-)<br><br>Actually, I use the Thread Heaven even when sewing on patches. Besides being a thread conditioner, it lubricates the thread making it easier to pull through your work. So it could even be useful for ad hoc repairs with nylon thread. BTW, what weight is that thread? I never thought of packing the stuff in my pack, but it's small enough to do so. The plastic box is 1" square and 1/8" thick. It may melt under heat conditions so I'd tos it into one of those small jewlery zip-lock bags.<br><br>BTW, the same web site has extra needles, 3 for $8.<br><br>BTW II - what other field manuals might be of interest? I scanned the list but there are so many that it's hard to see what's really useful for a weekend warrior (I don't need to understand helecoter rotor maintainence!).

Oh, I almost forgot to add one last comment.<br><br>I blew out the seam of an old pair of slacks this morning while boarding the train (I must have had a little too much fruit cake this holiday). The thread was old and gave way so the cloth was in fine shape, which made my repairs easy. <br><br>One of the tiny sewing kits I have has a set of needles that are all ready threaded with diferent color threads. How nice it was to simply start sewing without having the hassle of threading a needle, especially since I was sitting in the bathroom without any pants on!!!<br><br>It dawned on me that I should pre-thread one of my needles in my PSK. I'm sure that the last thing I want to worry about in a survivial situation is thrying to shove the thread through the eye of the needle! This would even be doubly true if I need it in winter conditions.<br><br>It's a simple idea, but I'm sure I'll pat myself on the back someday down the road.

Hmmmm. Dental floss. It only makes sense that it is linen. I do some amatuer leather work, mostly knife sheaths, and the suggested "thread" is wax coated linen. I bet dental floss would definetly work in an emergency<br>