WOW That was a great idea. Probably one of the best cutting options I have seen for a PSK yet

Tom, thanks for the great idea. Even without machine equipment, I used your idea. I removed the knife chuck, cut the handle to fit a "Sucrets" sized candy tin. This allowed me to keep the handle a little longer. I ground a hacksaw blade to fit the blade chuck with a drill and grinding stone. I removed some cheap razor type blades that folded into a handle rom the handle and ground them so that they would fit into the chuck.

Great stuff! what's the L shaped thingy?

Great! As you probably noticed, the handle is soft alloy and the chuck is a harder alloy - probably 6061. Since the handle is so soft, you could easily gouge a groove along the outside of the body - or two or three - deep and wide enough to hold a sewing needle or two. <br><br>The simplest way would be to remove the collet and sleeve and carefully hacksaw the groove to depth, then widen as needed by file. Or, for a closed ended slot, like plunge milling, a small woodcarver's gouge, or an engravers burin could do the job. Drop the needles in place, wrap a little orange (or black) electrical tape around the handle, and you've stowed your needles. If you use the hacksaw, put a dab of 5 min epoxy or JB Weld at both ends of the slot(s) to keep the needles from sliding out.<br><br>Also, a few minutes work with a file to reduce the handle cross-section to an oval would reduce the handle weight 20-30 percent and THEN you could still do the grooves if you wanted. Just be careful to not get too far forward with the filing or you'll cut into the rebate at the front.<br><br>Just a thought... oh, for those without a grinder - most hacksaw blades can be shaped with a file; certainly the "normal" ones can. I have not checked a bi-metal blade, but I suspect it is also easily shaped by file as well. Grinders are a sure bet, tho.<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Tom

Yow. I was just thinking of getting one of the x-acto clones at the local dollar store and cutting the handle off ... but you're idea is much better.<br><br>I especially like the 'modified hacksaw blade' idea.<br><br>- Tristan<br>

Unless they have stopped making them in the last few years, X-acto offers hacksaw type blades which should fit your generic handle just fine. For those without a grinder...<br><br>And I love your idea. I don't have a lathe or drill press (yet), but I am pretty good with hacksaw, file, and dremel, so I will be making one. You are a very inventive guy...

You're probably thinking the #13 blade. It's rated to maybe thin roofing metal, and that's about it, and only for a short time. I think it was probably really ment for softer, copper-based alloys in making various crafts. <br><br>The #15 and #27 really aren't up to being used on metal, but they are longer and work on light woods and plastics. <br><br>The #26 whitting blade might be perfect for PSK use.<br><br>For those who are interested, <br>http://www.einsteins-emporium.com/col-supply/x-acto/ctx10.htm<br><br>http://www.x-actoblades.com/xacto/xpage1.htm

You obviously know a lot more about them than I do, so I bow to your knowledge. Thanks for the info...

I just know the #13 from having used it to cut cable notches in circuit boards, for one lab, back in college. The others are based on the catalog's data and talking to people who use them a lot. <br><br>My knowledge with them isn't <i>that</i> much greater than most.

Tom,<br><br>Great invention! You might consider drilling a hole through the shaft, large enough to accommodate a sturdy cotter pin (to be included in your kit), to serve as a T-handle. This would be handy when attempting repairs on thick materials like canvas, leather, etc.. You could also use the hole to attach a lanyard.<br><br>Best Regards, Barry