Does anyone have any experience with the Mora knives? I recently purchased a Mora #2 red-handled knife with a 4 1/8 inch carbon blade. It seems to be a good value at $9 and has a very hard blade. Do they hold an edge well? I have not yet had a chance to try it out. <br><br>These knives have what is called a "scandinavian grind" where the initial bevel goes all the way to the egde of the blade. I tried to sharpen it the "proper" way using this bevel and keeping it flat on the stone but without good results. I could not get it sharp this way after hours of trying. I finally raised the blade a little and put a small secondary angle on it. After just a couple strokes it was razor sharp! <br><br>From what I understand, using the full bevel with no secondary is the proper way to sharpen them, but I could not do it!! I have seen posts mentioning the Mora knives and thought maybe someone with experience with them could help me.

I've never done it but there's information on Ragner's website at:<br><br>http://www.ragweedforge.com/scanshrp.html

Mora is actually a region in Sweden and is a generic name for their knives. Ragnar has a very good explanation to sharpening the Scandinavian grind. www.knifeforums.com has additional information. The carbon versions with high rockwell are also one of the few knives that will spark with natural flint. They have high carbon content on the surface from the forging. This is what actually ignites. The high rockwell keeps the flint from gouging into the metal. If you buy any of the traditional models, many lack guards. This is a potential safety problem. The knives were traditionally drawn to the user, or pushed in at the butt. This seems wrong, but with heavy mittens on or an injured hand works quite well. these knives are not choppers or splitters. 4" birch trees are not oak billets! The deep sheaths are very good at retaining the knife. Just get a model with the flared or stylized butt to help pulling it out. Scandinavian steels may be stainless Sandvik, a laminate or Carbon. All are known for initial sharpness ( and only get better. ) Again , these are not heavy chopping survival blades excepting the Mora 2000), but for a secondary utility knife unbeatable for price and quality.

Ragweed Forge is where I ordered the knife from I just wanted to try out the scandinavian style because I have never owned one or had any experience with them. My main knife is a Cold Steel SRK. My pocket knife is a Cold Steel Voyager that I am never without. I thought the Mora knife would be a good one to stuff in a pack for use as a general utility knife for camp or cutting up deer and such. It's lighter and handier than my SRK. I thought that for $9 it was worth trying. I got the info from Ragnar's website on sharpening but it doesn't work for me. I thought of e-mailing him...but all his info is right there on the site. Perhaps I will just stick with conventional sharpening. That seems to work well and the knife is very sharp.

You may be destroying each edge as you start the other one. Moras have a lot of very minute imperfections. Take a steel or ceramic hone and burnish both sides. Then with the full bevel flush with your sharpening medium work until you have the 'wire' on the full length( the thin fold you can feel.) Then dress the other side until it has one. Then it is just a progressively lighter repetition until sharp. Sometimes the new Moras need a few sessions to reach their potential. Minor temper and grind imperfections are a given with an inexpensive knife. A few sessions usually brings the 'clean' steel out. Some users even use lapping mediums or cardboard for a final strop. Once these are poperly prepped, only the hone is often needed to maintain a edge unless heavily abused.

As a kid I remember having on of the Mora style knives. The steel was rusted and pitted but nothing a wire brush couldnt handle. The thing I remember most was that when I put it on a sharpening stone the blade slid across as if on teflon. At that age I did know why, but know I'm sure it was the Rockwell hardness. My daddy could make it shave hair. Sure wish I had that early 60's vintage kinfe know. Ragnar's has some very good deals. I was wondering if all the carbon steel is the same. I have my eye on one of the commercial butcher models.

There is much conjecture about current steels. The stainless is called Sandvik, and the carbon is known for the qualities I posted earlier. The world economy has complicated things. The Fallkniven is made in Japan, the Finnish Co. Martinni uses a hi crome German Stainless and rumors abound about Swedish steels. All I know is the quality for cost is still there. The instructor, Mors Kochanski in Canada only uses Moras! I have my "abuse" blade, a Cold Steel SRK, and for the more measured tasks my Scandinavian blades and Alaskan Ulu . In a world of "perceptions" the traditional look is more socially acceptable than the black SWAT image. Some of the finest bows on the American plains were traded from California, so nothing is new.

I just got a Mora 2000 in the mail today. I got it brand new off eBay for $9.00. My first impressions were, "this looks like something from the Dollar General store." It's not the best looking knife in the world, but man is it SHARP! I won't be using it for chopping tasks, or my main carry...but it might do the trick if you're short on cash. Basically, I got it for camping chores like food preparation, skinning fish, making fire sticks, and because it was only $9 <img src="images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Plus, I wanted to see if the hype about Mora was true. So far, so good. I sliced through about 20 feet of cardboard, then I just quit. Then I made some fire sticks, it was still sharp. Holds an edge pretty well. I haven't needed to sharpen it yet...and I'm not looking forward to it. From what I've read, it can be a PITA.

My opinion: A great generic Swedish Mora that will handle all lighter chores (and most medium chores) around the house or campsite. I like the way the knife is almost completely consumed by the sheath...more sheaths should be made this way. Dont let it replace your main blade, though.

Specs: Overall knife length: 9 1/8 inches. Blade length: 4 1/2 inches. Overall length in sheath: 10 3/4 inches.

Here's some pictures:





John McIntire

i'm searching for these mora knife's to, but i cant find them here in The Netherlands and i can't import them since i don't have a creditcard or a payment account...
any dutchy's knows were i can buy them ? or order them by rambours ( paying the mailguy.. ) ??

You might want to take a look at Ragweed Forge. Click the Eriksson Knives link. He has many Mora knives, ranging in price from $8 - $30. "Ragnar" couldn't be a nicer guy. Try e-mailing him and see if he will help you get what you want. Ask him if he will do a C.O.D., which is what we call "paying the mailguy" over here in the States. Hope this helps!

John McIntire

Take a look at the outdoor survival forum @ www.knifeforums.com Scandinavian cutlery is a popular topic there, with many resources. That red paint is horribly slippery when wet. I sanded all of mine.