Or just up the AC a notch or two....(How decadent! (I can remember when cars did not have AC...)

With food, dry goods last longer than canned, canned lasts longer than prepared foods (ready to eat but in a package). Again, temperature and moisture are the things that affect the longevity of anything. Stored properly, dry and canned should last years.

I recently had the “opportunity” to eat some Beef Stew which had a 2011 sell by date. It was fine, tasted like canned beef stew always tastes and best, it did make me sick at all. Don’t be put off by the date, just watch the storage conditions and the shape of the can.

comment on stored staples like beans, rice, pasta etc... recommended by Wendy DeWitt (LDS food guru)... I vacuum sealed my stored staples in quart pressure canning jars with the jar adapter of my inexpensive vacuum sealer... then place the sealed jars back into their original shipping boxes, and store under my bed

for water a combination of Aqua Tainers (at least 15yrs old) and Scepter 20L containers... I change out the water at the start of hurricane season yearly, and add 2ml of liquid chlorine bleach for each 20L container... a Sawyer 5 gal .1micron filter and on site well with hand pump is back up

I dine out exclusively, so other than some perishable sandwich meats and hot dogs, my hurricane prep is for only a two week stretch of canned soups and stews (which can be augmented with a hand full of instant rice), which are donated to a local food bank about 6months prior to the use by date... 72 hours of Mountain House entrees in the car

hurricane radios and portable TV is in a Sears rolling plastic tool chest... I could re-purpose, and throw a sleeping bag on top and di di mao if needed...after Irma, I obtained a second charger for my Eneloop AAs and a dedicated power strip so I can charge them and my cell phone off the same wall outlet

generators, fuel, and 3 bulk propane cylinders are stored in a non attached garage

my garage temps reach 100F, but the house runs between 68-78F

One of the items we store. more and more frequently, in some manner or another, is electricity, either within rechargeable batteries or in power banks of varying capacities - a lot of these come equipped with some sort of flashlight bulb and outlets for charging other devices.

So far, I am a Goal Zero patron - I have two portable solar panels and several lights, lanterns, and smaller power banks. They are great, but I am dimly aware of cheaper alternatives and brands that are just as effective, if you know what you are doing with electricity (which lets me out). Basically I am content to keep batteries and cell phones working.

What are the options for effective systems that corral and store electricity?

I too like Goal Zero, there’s a GZ Yeti 400 sitting under the desk as I type (closer than my LM Skeletool ). But the Yeti isn’t particularly hiking friendly, so for that there is an Anker PowerCore 20100 Portable Charger, which IIRC has multiple 18650 Li-Ion batteries inside with circuitry to allow multiple USB outputs. Anker makes similar smaller units and if I was doing it again, I’d probably get a smaller single USB unit, but this one works.

I picked up a Goal Zero 7w panel several years ago just to play with the technology... I am able to charge AA Eneloops in either of my 4 slot chargers, but it is time consuming... Irma opened my eyes to the advantages of a inverter generator, which now has extended run capabilities... I have a traditional 3500W Honda, that is a lot more robust, but the handy inverter 2200/2000 is now the primary

if you refrigerate insulin, use a CPAP, use need an oxygen accumulator or have other medical requirements should look into one of the top of the line inverter gen sets

Water- Mixed
1- 50 gallon barrel under the steps in the basement- Tap water plus very little bleach.
3 -5 gallon commercial bottles, like the ones you see on water coolers. Prefilled.
2 -3 gallon camping bottles, easy to get in car and user. Tap water.
5 or 6 2 and 3 liter soda bottles, washed and bleached. 1 under sink in kitchen, 3 in freezer in garage, 1 in each car.

Energy
2 golf cart batteries in series, about 1000 watts. About 300 watts in panels, mostly in garage. 4 inverters, 2 converters (inverters for AC stuff, converters for 12 volt stuff. Can get to AC, DC 12 volt, DC 5 volt, 9 volt.
I also has a Prius that can do 12 volts for a LONG LONG time.

Food
Badly short. Wife is 1) gluten intolerant 2) not into prepared. We have maybe 2 weeks of food on hand. BIGGEST GAP. May need to do this without approval...

Plenty of ways to COOK, Propane grills, butane grills, just not enough food.

Shelter
House, 2 relatives with houses within 10 miles
4 tents
10 sleeping bags.

"I also has a Prius that can do 12 volts for a LONG LONG time."

Mrs.Hikermor drives a Prius, very capably I might add. That vehicle will be with us, either staying or leaving, in a disaster. I am sure I can get 12 volts from it for a long time, what what about 120 AC? Any simple solutions for the electronically challenged?

For starters, what kind of solar array would keep the Prius main battery charged and how might one hook it up?

120 VAC could be achieved with an inverter. Some of them can be hooked up to the cigarette lighter socket. Check for the fuse though and use a unit that stays within the limits of that fuse. Keep in mind that the inverter draws a current that is about 10 times the output current (there is some loss).
For the solar array you would have to do a rough estimate for currents you want to draw and the available space for storage. A size that can be easily stored in a car may give you about 2 - 3 A per panel. It probably can be hooked up via a lighter socket (check whether that is permitted for the Prius) or directly to the battery. Make sure to use a regulator.
I use Anderson Powerpoles for connections. They ensure the proper polarity and do not have genders.