SURVIVAL GEAR COSTS

Category Cheap Middle Expensive

Fire 0 10 45
Shelter 3 40-325 151-2475
Water 0 9 50
First Aid 0 25 200

Tools
knife 15 88 690
Signal/Nav
map 12 12 500
mirror 0 4 10
whistle 0 5 35
light 0 20 320

TOTAL 30 213-498 2001-4325


The above table sums the costs I derived for 1)cheap - gear typically found on hand in the average household 2)middle - retail prices in a retail store for comparable items 3)expensive - same retail store (REI) but the most expensive (not necessarily the most suitable!) item in that category.

In "cheap" the costs are for a Mora knife, a topo map of the relevant area, and a drop cloth in the shelter category.

The "middle" included a bivvy sack (REI actually lists one at $325!!)

The "expensive" is just that,but everything is currently on the REI site. The spread in shelters is most impressive; the most expensive is a car top model - price is through the roof, so to speak.

I used REI as a guide because they have a fairly full inventory of necessary items. The same things can be found at other retailers and prices will vary, especially if you hunt for bargains.

This thread is inspired by the "Most Recommended Must Have Survival Gear under $30". i would say you can probably get by for thirty bucks or less for all your stuff and survive a night or three, or you can spend more, in some cases a lot more.

This is just a minimal kit, and there are several things that most of us would include. Note that there is no mention of a compass. IMHO and experience, a compass on land is rarely necessary to determine direction, while a topo map is frequently consulted, even in familiar terrain.

I would predict that most of us fit comfortably in the middle range.

edit: despite my best efforts, the columns got scrambled when posted - sorry!

Those are probably fair cost estimates and I really like the zero cost items because I have some freebies that are totally serviceable, however,
I agree that a topo-map can be used alone as long as the user knows what he’s doing and keeps himself found ... then comes an overcast night and you think you’re “here” but you’re really “there”, and you think that’s North because you think the slope you’re on faces west ... You are totally lost because you don’t even know which slope you’re on. Add some trees and even with clear skies and a full moon, you have no visual reference on surrounding terrain.

So while I don’t have your experience, a novice had better have more than a topo map; a compass and a GPS would be a start, because once a novice is lost, they’ll stay lost if a hint doesn’t come down from above (that’s where the GPS constellation is)

You have a very good point; it just happens that the two occasions where I used a compass on land were during nights with extensive cloud cover. Dawn will come however, and East will be revealed. Don't forget that compasses can be fooled (iron on your body etc., local variation).

It is important, if using a topo map, to use it to track your progress and stay found - don't wait until you are confused. Even GPS units can be a little off in steep canyons; nothing is perfect.

Many years ago, after becoming VERY confused while walking through Taipei, Taiwan, and struggling to refind my hotel, I started carrying a handheld GPS when traveling to unfamiliar urban locations. I make sure to mark my hotel and other key places before I head out on foot. Since I travel to Germany a fair amount I bought the extra German maps on a memory card that can be used in both their handhelds and the automobile devices.

Earlier this year I tried to use my Garmin GPSMAP60csx to help navigating while walking in the old city area of Regensburg, Germany (beautiful city - strongly recommended), but the very narrow streets and tallish buildings (3-4 floors) made it difficult to get a lock onto satellites. It was frustrating.

In the end it was the hotel-provided city map and a simple compass that guided us. I carry the small roundish Brunton TruArc 3 compass since it fits comfortably in a pocket and gets the job done. I found using a compass to quickly oriente maps at large amusement parks (Disney, Sea World) very useful.

On a side note, I have two Garmin Gekos and I LOVE their tiny size, but having older GPS chipsets they can struggle to get a satellite lock. Frustrating.

Last weekend I watched a few episodes of SOS: How to Survive - a couple lost in Big Bend, and a hunter who broke his ankle in a remote area. While electronic gear often gets a bad rap for battery and similar risks, both of these stories could have been relatively quickly resolved by a GPS (with a car waypoint set before heading out) for $85-$260, and a personal locator beacon for about $250. It's not low cost, but what is a life worth these days?

After the show I took my wife (who is not interested in using my GPS or other navigation skills) outside and asked her if she could figure out how to use the GPS to get to a waypoint if needed. I'm happy to say that she DID get it done.

I looked at the Brunton TruArc™ Global last time you mentioned it and bought one; I like it. The Global needle is nice because unlike other compasses I own, it doesn’t need to be held quite as flat so it works better while you’re moving. It also has a smaller baseplate so it’s easy to fit in tight pockets. There may be better compasses for orienteering with sighting mirrors and such to improve accuracy, but all said, the Brunton TruArc™ Global is a good compass, easy to read, accurate enough and not at all expensive.

GPS systems have improved a lot over the years. My first was a Garmin GPS V (2001’ish) and I was happy with its accuracy. Let it sit in one place to average its location and it could get down to about 12’ given enough time. Then I bought a Garmin Geko 301, non-mapping but it has a magnetic compass and barometric altimeter which is very useful in conjunction with a topo map.

Next up was a Garmin GPSMAP 60CSx with a high-sensitivity GPS receiver, barometric altimeter and electronic compass. Depending on how much you wanted to spend, it could have better maps (road or topo). The electronic compass is power hungry though so it stays turned off.

Now I have a Garmin Oregon 600 which has a high-sensitivity GPS receiver, a better processor to lock up faster and a 3-axis compass with accelerometer and barometric altimeter sensors. The 3” color touch screen display is slightly larger than the 60CSx display and a new user interface menu went with the touch screen. That said, the GPSMAP 60CSx still puts me in the same location. I still leave the electronic compass turned off.

The biggest issue I hear is battery life and having no power when needed most.
1. Carry spare batteries,
2. Don’t leave it on all the time. Put the receiver in demo mode or just turn it off if it isn’t needed for constant use.
3. Keep the electronic compass turned off and carry a real magnetic compass instead.
I carry spare batteries (AA) and other gear is also AA so carrying spares is a no brainer.

FWIW, $.02

In the price segment the TruArc 3 is good value. I use global needles for geocaching for several years now and I am very satisfied with them. Some time ago I had to replace my Silva Field (a coworker borrowed it and asked me if she could keep it and reimburse me). I decided to go for the TruArc because of the global needle. I am happy with it and would recommend it.
With a price around 20€ I´d put it in the middle category.

I first used a GPS in the early 90's and I thought it was the dawning of the age of Aquarius - just punch the button and there were utM coordinates right in front of you. This was critical data for archaeologicl sites we were recording.

As i remember that first unit was expensive - $1300or so and the instructions stated very clearly to write down the numbers in case the batteries died, which they did, as surely s the sun rose in the morning.

For recreational hiking, I am quite happy with my Foretrex 101, mostly because it gives me good mileage data and shows me where the car is. I still like to have a paper map with me. Their batteries are really long lasting....

I'm so bummed out that the GPS V I had mounted in my truck and connected to my ham radio finally died last year. No more APRS for me, until I get a new NMEA-compatible GPS.

Prior to the GPS V, I was using a GPS 76Map, but that one died. I went to the GPS V, because it used the same connector and was on clearance at West Marine for the same price it would have cost me to have Garmin fix my 76Map (about $100).

I'm hoping to snag a used GPS 276C to replace it.