https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-Pry-Bar-Set-3-Piece-91/202585548

This is representative ofa pry bar set which is readily available at lots of outlets. I am putting it up because having one of these can save a good blade a lot of grief. They are quite cheap and weigh very little,if that is a factor. My experience is that they are worth having around.

I do a fair amount of digging, going after archaeological materials and the occasional fossil and I find tese handy, especially the largest in situations where I might other wise be digging with a perfectly good knife in the dirt, prying up lids, and similar tasks. The smaller ones are quite handy around camp, again saving wear and tear on a nice knife.

If I could have just one tool, it would be a good sturdy, tough knife but if I am not so restricted, one of these would find it way into my pack...

This is inspired by Montanero's post in the "new knife" thread in which he discusses really extreme knife usage and the brands that stand up to such usage. An actual prybar can save you a lot of time and money...And of course they can be modified for specific purposes very easily and cheaply.

That’s a nice set and the price is right. If I didn’t already have all those pry bars (Stanley or Vaughn) I’d buy that set, it’s on-the-shelf at the local HD.

The Stanley FUBAR Demolition Bar is another good choice, but it’s not on the shelf at Home Depot.

I do carry a small pry bar when I can afford the weight. I have a couple in my vehicle. Yes, I admit that I have abused knives in the past. Yes, I admit that a previous experience has caused me to POSSIBLY overreact in my acquisition of knives.

Hi, my name is Montanero and I am a knife addict. I began my habit after breaking perfectly good knives by using them for things that they were not intended to be used for.

Hi, Montanero!

I was looking over some of my blades and wondering at their fate in your hands, Montanero. I have a Kabar, 4"blade, 1/8" thick, full tang obviously, because the tang is the handle (scales are optional), D2 steel. What would one have to do to this knife to trash it? If I putit in my vise and hit it with a sledge hammer, I think the vise would give way first, but you have seriously, and for good cause, broken some pretty stout stuff. What does it take? )Inquiring minds want to know...)

I also have a Buck 105 which is stated to have a full tang. Did you stress any Bucks? I am not going to hammer on this particular blade because I have had it for 46 years - sentimental value. I know it can do more than spread peanut butter...

The old Kabars were not full tang.

I drop tested a Buckmaster from 6 feet onto concrete and it broke into 3 pieces. It was owned by a Navy SEAL and we compared my Gerber BMF and his Buckmaster. My Gerber BMF did not break.

Putting a knife in a vise and hitting it with a sledgehammer is about the only thing I did not do. I pounded knives into a wood fence post and then stood on the handle, jumping up and down, I pounded the BMF into a crack in some rocks and then hung three grown men on a rope around the handle, I stabbed them through car doors and then tested sharpness. That was all testing, and my Gerber BMF and Cold Steel Recon Tanto both held up.

The Kabars I broke and bent in the field were from prying and cutting through doors, digging or opening Soviet type ammo cans and boxes.

I never broke a Buck folder, they were pretty tough. But I never tested it either.

Very informative and interesting! I have placed knife blade pitons in rocks, but never an actual knife. Your real world results are really helpful.

Are titanium pry bars avaiable? Is it a good choice?
qjs

Do a search for “titanium pry bars” on Amazon and you’ll get an assortment. Not cheap...

The titanium pry bar I use is from CountyComm - CountyComm Titanium Widgy Pry Bars
The 2” model is good for a key-ring, opening lids and other small stuff to save your nails.

How hard and flexible is titanium?