Really just an upgrade of sorts. Apart from my first S30V RSK Mk 1, one of my favorite knives for EDC is a Benchmade 940. My first BM940 came with a 154CM blade, and my second came with S30V and a Titanium handle. The latest is a BM940-1 with an S90V blade an carbon fiber handle. This will probably be my last 940.

I carry my first 940 more often than the others because it’s just too hard to retire an excellent knife. The patina on the blade and scuff marks on the anodized aluminum give it character. It’s difficult to put an old friend in a drawer. That said, S90V and CF was too hard to pass by.

If I posted every new knife here my wife would find out what I've been doing with my money. I can't have that.

Yes, this is a potentially dangerous, and complicated thread to begin. The world may find out where we are REALLY investing!

Too true. It’s been a long while since I bought a new BM940 though and just thought I’d say something; it’s really about the one in 154CM,

There are a lot of knives that did get retired early and some have only been lubed. Buy a knife because it has great reviews, open and close it a few times, put it back in its box and retire it... or it could be an old BM940...

My first RSK Mk1 is still carried too. My second went to Afghanistan with a friend.

don't ever attend a Knifemaker's Guild show, and meet Mr. Chris Reeve...

that would be cool. Chris Reeve makes excellent knives. I don't own a Reeve knife, and probably wont even buy another knife. But it would be fun to talk to the knife makers.

I’d love to meet him. I carried a CRK Mnandi (African Blackwood IIRC) for a while, then retired it returning to my 940. The two CRK Sebenza’s were put aside, too nice and heavier than the 940. Really, the CRK Sebenza is awesome, but for EDC? They are work knives that look and feel great. The 940 and Mnandi are more like gentlemen’s folders.

I hope your wife does not visit Susie's Beauty Shop .
Before Xmas I got a Buck folding hunter and a Mora Eldris. Shortly after New Year´s day one more Eldris and two Buck folding hunters found their way to me (they were on sale and really had no choice). I found both models satisfying and they were packed into different kits.

LOL, too right Max, they were on sale so I had no choice! I tell my wife that a lot.

For those who do like hand made knives (really hand made by the guy whose name is on the knife) I would recommend:

Sirois

TCT Knives His old web site

Rustick Knives

Both of these guys are people I served with and call friend. I have no financial interest, but am a very satisfied customer.

CT Knives

I have met Cary Thomas and have a couple of his knives. They are beautiful and he is passionate about making knives. A true artist.

If this is any indicator, you see where my knife collection is going. I must end it now before I get carried away.

My offspring appreciate the knives I don't carry any more, so I use them as special incentives. I'm still growing the knife collection though.

I own a few fixed blades from http://bradfordknives.com/ and love them. My RSK Mk3 is also a fave.

Almost all of my folders are Benchmades (actually, all of my Benchmade folding knives are Doug Ritter models) and Spydercos. I have one ZT that I like a lot but have never carried.

The interest shown in knife esoterica (high end steels, grind varieties, etc.) is fascinating. I, of course, are not affected by any of this at all, but as an archaeologist, I have a deep professional commitment to understanding this most fundamental and basic tool, whose origins go back eons...

That is why I only own about thirty or so, not counting all my multitools. Most are pretty nondescript steel, but I have a couple fashioned from 154-CM and D2 (for me, at least, those are high end steels).

But seriously, what do you gain from an expensive blade that isn't present in a $15 Mora or in any of several Buck knives with well heat treated stainless steel (I have carried and used a Buck 105 since the early 70s and it still works quite well).

I am wondering about obtaining a kukri or similar to go with my vintage Collins machete, strictly to expand my knowledge.

Thank heavens I am not a knife knut, and my interest is STRICTLY professional ...Just for the record, I am a real fan of the RSK Mk5, owning at least three....

This is precisely the question many of us are exploring. Without big enough of a sample, however, it's really hard to draw any significant conclusions. First, we need to put together a well-rounded collection of high-end knives. Then we go out and play with ^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H test them. I'm hoping to get a grant.

Your dedication to truth and knowledge is most commendable. Be sure your sample size is large enough (better too large than too small).

> But seriously, what do you gain from an expensive blade that isn't present in a $15 Mora or in any of several Buck knives with well heat treated stainless steel

With that in mind here's a failed destruction test on a $15 Mora
https://youtu.be/fKlcBpKbAvM

> If I posted every new knife here my wife would find out what
I've been doing with my money. I can't have that.

Don't forget to leave the standard note with your gear for after your death 'Sell my gear for what it's worth, not what I told you I paid for it'.
The good news is: your memory isn't going; that "this old thing I've had years" that your wife suddenly appeared in.
Really was just bought" :-)
qjs

The expensive knife gives a lot more prestige than a cheap one and frequently it never looses it´s edge. While a $15 Mora will be considerably less sharp after gutting, dressing and boning a few deer, the expensive knife will still be razor sharp after sitting on a shelf for years (as it´s too expensive to actually take it for hunting).



A kukri will definitely expand knowledge. I obtained one made by Cold Steel many years ago and I still have it. It came razor sharp and helped me expand knowledge about knives and provided an opportunity to practice first aid skills too. In conclusion: Once it starts moving it is hard to stop. Do not move any body part in the extrapolated path of the blade. Extrapolated may easily be well within the actual reach.

Cold Steels most expensive knife is a $699.99 kukri:
http://www.coldsteel.com/products/fixed-knives/gurkha-kukri-in-san-mai-iii.html?___SID=U


They also sell a $34.99 machete kukri:

http://www.coldsteel.com/products/machetes/kukri-machete.html

and a 'kukri plus' machete (with a finger guard - good idea) for the same price:

http://www.coldsteel.com/products/machetes/kukri-plus-machete.html

Anyone believe you can do 20 times as much with the expensive one?

Dougs advice about not using a hatchet in a survival situation, unless you know what you are doing, makes a lot of sense to me. So they are all off my gear list.

qjs

What is Doug’s advice regarding hatchets specifically? Do you have a link? Wondering, because I like axes and hatchets depending on the situation. Is this a safety issue?

At some point a knife (or sword) becomes a status symbol or a piece of art. The price is going to reflect that.
For some handmade knives the handle material may go over the $700 for the Cold Steel kukri. Ornamental oriental daggers may even reach a 6 to 7 digit price.
A machete for $34.99 may be a great tool but it does a really poor job when it comes to showing off your wealth.

Here it is:
http://www.equipped.org/devices24.htm#NoAxesToGrind

Thanks. It is a safety issue and as usual Doug makes some good points. As for me, if I have an axe or hatchet in a survival situation, I’ll probably use it. I’ve been using them for over (dating myself) 50 years and I’ve yet to injure myself. My axe collection includes double & single bit axes of varying handle lengths and a dedicated splitting axe. I’ve got about a half dozen hatchets. I don’t have a double-bit Nessmuk.

OTOH, my brother received a glancing blow from an axe handle after the axe head failed to bite. Yeah, he was standing where he shouldn’t have been standing and (for the record) it was not me wielding the axe. Nasty bruise on his shin but the lesson was learned by both parties...

If a person is not confident wielding the axe or hachet, it still can be used in the style of an ulu knife. So if it is there, it can be put to use relatively safely.
Someone who is not used to wielding an axe or hachet probably should not pack it anyway.
I probably might have a hachet with me as part of my camping equipment but not as a part of a dedicated survival kit. The points Doug made convinced me a long time ago.
I once received a minor cut when I carried an axe with the flat side of the blade resting on my forearm to gain some manouverability.

The big problem as I see it is that a wound from an axe can be catastrophic, and in a survival situation could be deadly — fingers and toes, deep lacerations with no medical facility available. Not further injuring yourself is big in a survival situation. As Doug said, there are ways to get the same result more safely with other tools. An axe carries a lot of momentum.

In what he wrote, he said he "tends to avoid them" and prefers a saw. That is far from an absolute recommendation to not use them at all.

As for the hand made knives, it is not about "showing your wealth". In most cases these knives are better, if they are intended for practical use. Some are more of an art object, a piece of excellent craftsmanship. Some people collect vinyl records, some people collect old cars. A choice of a knife is more of a practical one based on experience, need, and preference. It is not an ideological or moral choice.

As I have posted in the past, my preference is for more durable, stronger knives. This is based on more than 40 years of outdoor experience in difficult environments and performing difficult tasks. The old Kabar was not strong enough for me, and I have broken and bent many of them. The hand made knives I own get used in the woods, and sometimes carried in high threat environments. They are tools, and they get abused.

I only have a couple that sit on a shelf and look pretty!

Gee Montanero, maybe I should mail my extra knives to you.

I generally agree with the opinion that a good machete will do a lot in a survival situation. It's a good compromise. I have used axes, and for a while I was a proponent on a lightweight Tomahawk that was made by CRKT. But after quite a bit of experience with the hawk last year, it is just too light to do general purpose chopping of wood. You need something more robust, and a bit more weight in the swing. Otherwise, the only thing you can do is split small kindling, which is not satisfactory.

My suggestion, whatever you choose, be it machete, tomahawk or large knife, USE it a lot. Split a lot of wood. Cut down some saplings. You'll find out pretty quickly if the tool is doing the job or not.

Something along the lines of a kukri works pretty well. But just remember where the striking point will be located. For example, if the kukri is 15 inches, the actual location for the best chopping action of the blade will be several inches down from the tip. So your real striking radius for chopping is not 15 inches. Again, try it out.

I spend time in Brazil every year. I am constantly chopping down big growths of bamboo, as well as a variety of other saplings. Partly for farm work, but I also make furniture with the bamboo. A kukri will cut through all of this stuff nicely, BUT the radius of the swing is less than you might expect. I also carry a large-size Filipino barong which will chop massively through anything. But I keep the barong away from the locals, because I am afraid they will cut off an arm or a leg.

We should get together sometime and swap yarns because with fairly long times in the outdoors (between you and me we have logged more than a century of healthy outdoor living), but our tool preferences are quite different, quite possibly representing civilian vs. military situations.

I like small knives, SAKs, multitools, or Moras. My most arduous and potentially "dangerous" assignments were responding to wild land fires. Then I carried a good sharp shovel and an ax variant, a Pulaski (ax blade married with a grub hoe - quite versatile). I still have all my appendages. Recreationally, I have been a backpacker and climber (often on technical routes) and in those environments when one uses a knife, it is used with great care, mostly to open a can of beans. From time to time doing SAR, I carried an Estwing hatchet, used primarily to clean out a helispot or swamp brush from a trail in advance of a stretcher party. I think the biggest knife any of us carried was a Buck 110.

It is good that there are different tools for different situations. It is interesting to learn that a Kabar is not all that strong....

No. PM me for my address.

I am not sure about the new ones from the Kabar company, I have not used them. The old ones were made by Camillus and had a very narrow tang. Mine broke at the hilt. I had a bit of bending as well. These experiences were indeed during military training or operations. I began a quest to find the indestructible knife. The ones I found then (1980s) were a Gerber BMF and a Cold Steel Recon Tanto. The Tanto was not a good design for field work, but it was very tough. I actually tried to break these knives and put them through hell. Other than some nicks and wear, they held up to serious abuse.

The knife industry is very different now. In the 1980s, if you wanted something really good, you bought a Randall. I could not afford that. Now there are many choices, and more demand for quality, at least in the social environment I am in. There is a greater understanding of what to look for in a knife, at least for me.

When you are out for a long time, don't have many choices, can't get additional tools when the mission changes, you carry one good one that will not break, no matter what you do with it.

Chaos, I have been working in the outdoors longer than 40 years actually if you count my time before the Army. As a kid I spent most of my time in the woods or on the water, and have always relied on good tools.

Montanero... I shot my first North Carolina Tactical 3 gun match in Fayetteville in 1995... a Randall #1 was on the prize table..a young SF (Delta) kid had shot well and was looking at the "high military" prizes.. I had to explain to him what a Randall #1 was valued at....

I’ve never served in the military, my parents wouldn’t let me join the Boy Scouts (!) and I’m a rank amateur in this crowd for fieldcraft.

Montanero, if you really want Pete’s extra knives I wasn’t going to give up my real name and address anyway .

Russ wrote:
> What is Doug’s advice regarding hatchets specifically? Do you have > a link? Wondering, because I like axes and hatchets depending on > the situation. Is this a safety issue?

If you go to the home page and click on the 'Gear' section in the left hand side links, you can scroll down to 'No Axe to Grind'.
Really I'd advise everyone to read the links on the home page before coming to the forum. Unlike a lot of us: Doug is an expert.

This is the section in full:

'To the horror of many old time traditional outdoorsmen, I tend to avoid recommending hatchets and axes. It is so easy to seriously injure or cripple yourself using these tools that the risks outweigh the benefits, in my opinion. This is especially a problem if you are tired, cold or otherwise not in particularly great shape, not an unlikely possibility for any survivor. An axe or hatchet is not very forgiving of poor or sloppy technique, as many a person, experienced and not, has learned the hard and painful way. For the inexperienced survivor there isn't the time to learn how to safely use these tools, which have been known to bite even those with plenty of years handling them. A saw is simply safer.

An axe will also weigh a good deal more than even a combination of a Short-Kutt and a small hand saw or a tool such as the Leatherman Super-Tool which includes a small saw blade. If you are convinced an axe or hatchet is an absolute necessity, then you are probably experienced enough to select a good one. Without that experience, don't bother.

While some cannot fathom how one might perform many tasks without such tools, the fact is that many of the jobs an axe is well suited for can be done nearly as easily using alternate methods. For example, stripping the branches off a tree for insulation or shelter building can be easily accomplished with a "club" made from a short stout branch. If you slip or miss, the damage done is minimal. Using the old noggin is safer than using an axe or hatchet.' - DR

Personally I regard Kukri's as an even more dangerous hatchet. The handle is a blade.
qjs

In a survival situation a saw is better. You can find them to fit any size survival kit and even when cutting large wood, it will expend less energy. You don't need large size wood or huge amounts of wood for survival anyway, a small fire is more efficient, safer and manageable. I would not recommend any multi tool or pocket knife that does not include a saw blade.

However, a tool is just a tool, and the dangerous part, even in Doug's words, is the user. Fatigue and lack of experience and confidence can lead to trouble. Any tool can be dangerous, even a screw driver. You use what you are comfortable using, and you use what you have in the situation. If you lack experience chopping and splitting wood you can always learn. I would recommend the methods taught in Boy Scouts. They are safe, even for kids, and I have taught many kids to chop wood without ever having a single accident or injury. If you learn it, and you end up needing to use an axe or hatchet, then you are less likely to injure yourself. Knowledge and practice are a big help.

In terms of weight, a saw beats a hatchet any time, for most applications. However, in terms of collecting firewood, there is an even more efficient solution - bare hands.

I have built a lot of wood fires over the years, some in emergency situations and some not, and I have never had a problem collecting enough wood barehanded. Long branches are shortened by stomping (stout boots help!). Dry pine needles, twigs, and small stuff are readily available on standing trees. No tools at all are required.

I have never understood the incessant discussions on batoning which strikes me as a completely unnecessary procedure and a good way to abuse a knife.

In recent years, I have built fewer and fewer fires. Small efficient stoves are safer and quicker and there are lots of options available.

Montanero's remarks emphasize that you must not only have a gadget, but also have the knowledge and experience to use said gadget safely and effectively. Build lots of fires before your life depends on it....

when I was a Scout there was not an "official" Scouting supplier in the area, so most of our camping equipment was from an army/navy source... Dad had brought back a folding machete from Burma, and that was my first big cutting tool, later an 18" GI Collins 1944 (until stolen)... today I still use a a cut down SA Collins (Guatemala made) and Tramontina bolo for minor trimming duties

Your best firewood collecting method is you hands and feet, as Hikermor says. Other tools can help, but they are more for building shelter or other tasks. Even then a saw is likely more efficient and lighter.

With all of the talk about big knives, of which I possess many nice ones, the knife I actually use the most is my SAK Ranger. Yes, it has a saw blade and that saw blade gets used a lot.

There seems to be a source of advice I alone have access to.
Errrr... the links on the home page :-)

Doug on pocket chain saws:
' the link or chain saw style. The original of the this style was the Pocket ChainSaw (formerly known as the Short Kutt Pocket ChainSaw) by Supreme Products. Until recently, it was the only one available. Now, another chain style saw has debuted, the Saber Cut from Ultimate Survival (Survival, Inc.).

Both these saws perform essentially as a human powered chain saw. It is absolutely amazing how fast you can cut decent sized wood with these saws. Easy enough so that you can easily use it for constructing more secure shelter than might otherwise be possible.' - DR

There's also his opinion on wire saws, folding saws, SAK saws.....

qjs

Actually, that makes at least two of us that have referenced those pages. I agree that they are excellent references, especially with regard to general principles. When it comes down to cutting edge (ahem!) discussions of specific brands, some sections are dated (Leatherman, for example). This is not surprising, since changes and improvements are fairly rapid and it would be more than a full time job to remain current. Presumably that is where forum discussions come in.

For instance, there is no mention of Silky folding saws, which I prefer to the Gerber model, a tool that in my experience has been rather fragile...

I have a Fiskars folding saw in the truck and have had a Victorinox Rucksack model (among other large format SAK’s) for over a decade. The Fiskars saw is a great wood cutting tool for the light wood you’d use in a survival situation. Still, I’ve used axes in colder climates, you’ve got to know your limitations. FWIW.

I have used several of the pocket chain saws and they generally perform well. Some cut faster than others. They do have a tendency to break if the motion of the cutting is not kept straight. Any angle introduced during strenuous cutting can break the links.

Wire saws do not cut as well, but will work. Any binding on the wire blade will lock it up tight. It is best to push on the item being cut so as to open up the gap a little and allow the saw to move freely against the surface being cut.

There are many folding saws that a re a little bigger than what I would call pocket size (depends on the depth of your pockets). Most will cut wells, but as Hikermor says, there are some durability issues.

For larger logs a saw will cut efficiently with less effort than an axe. Small saws are good for notching wood for construction to strengthen your lashings. Saws are less efficient for lopping off smaller branches, skinning animals, scaling fish, carving or sharpening wood to make tools, cutting bamboo (yes we have it here, and a type of it is native). You need the right tool for the job at hand, and if you don't take it with you it will not be at hand. Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Doug's opinion is a well informed and experienced one. It does not replace personal experience. You can read all of the blogs, watch all of the Youtube videos, read all of the books on survival, but you need to get out there and learn how to do it yourself. Nothing develops a skill better than practicing it before you get into an emergency situation.

In capable and experienced hands, there is nothing wrong with a hatchet or an ax for any bushcraft or survival situation.

In a lifetime of hatchet and ax use, I prefer the hatchet or even a small forest ax over any wire saw. One step up and compromise from a wire saw, is a good quality folding garden saw.

Okay, the 940-1 arrived — it’s nice. At this point I’ll accept the reviews re S90V edge-holding, no need to ruin a nice knife. As for EDC, the carbon-fiber BM940 is noticeably lighter than my green aluminum BM940 and way lighter than the Ti version.

Some reviews make note of CF being warmer than Al which is good when it’s cold. The handle does feel warmer, but what I think is happening is that CF doesn’t transfer heat as efficiently as does aluminum, so even though the CF and Al handles are the same temp, the heat transfer difference makes the CF feel warmer. I think... $.02

Some years ago I heard about a study done by the Canadian Ministry of Transportation. They interviewed survivors of light aircraft crashes about what they had with them, what they used and what else they needed.

One of the things I remember was that your tools should be something you can deploy and use with your non-dominant hand because your dominant hand is frequently damaged in a crash. That says to me to skip the axe and have a folding saw with you. I can certainly use a saw in my left hand much better and more safely than any chopping tool.

Caveat: I have not been able to track down the study and I am not certain I remember all the details correctly.

BTW, one conclusion was that they would happily exchange two-thirds of what they had for more water.

I dropped by REI today to look at some gear and saw the Benchmade 535. I wasn’t totally unfamiliar, but had never had one in hand.

Despite its light weight (1.85oz. (52.45g)), the knife had a good feel, and with its fairly thin blade and handle, it carries very easily. S30V is no longer top-of-the-line, but it’s still pretty good knife steel. I’m not sure what the “grivory” handle is (GRP mixed with something?), but it feels good and is grippy enough. It’s not quite a full flat grind, but close enough — should be an excellent slicer.

Needless to say, it came home and is clipped to my pocket as I type. Not a safe queen.

I like S30V, Axis locks, Grivory, and this blade profile. Looks like a knife I would really like.

It’s...possible...that I’ve spent more money on knives recently than maybe would have been ideal.

Agree, the Benchmade Bugout is a keeper. BTW, Grivory is basically glass filled nylon. Benchmade Edge

All righty then ... another new knife and it’s the same as one of my current EDC knives except the new color is much more to my liking. The Benchmade Bugout 535GRY-1 is a nice and very lightweight knife. Thin stock (.09”) S30V blade, Grivory (glass reinforced nylon) handle and now in a color other than bright blue -- “Ranger green handles and a smoked gray, chromium nitride coated blade”. I really like the bright blue handle/bright SS model of this knife, not because of the color but because it carries so easy; overall it is thin at .42” and lightweight at 1.85oz. So yeah, I bought the new subdued color, much easier on the eyes.

All righty then, the Benchmade Bugout I ordered arrived and it looked perfect coming out of the box. Then I opened it and it has a partially serrated blade - I ordered plain edge because I always order plain. Checked the order form and receipt, all the paperwork clearly says plain, but the box has that “S” as in 535SGRY-1. So before I mail this knife back, what are the advantages and good reasons to have the serrations on an EDC knife. I’ve gone over this in my mind, but in an attempt to be an open-minded person I’m interested in why folks like partially serrated blades. Please, give me a valid reason to keep this knife. What is the advantage? TIA

Like you, I prefer plain blades, kept nice and sharp. Serrated blades do cut rope and similar thick, fibrous materials better, though, on average.

Nothing wrong with a little diversity. I have some semi-serrated edges, as well.

In general, I like a plain blade.

In my opinion, serrated blades really only do one thing well, and that is cut rope or webbing. That makes them good for something like a rescue knife attached to a life jacket for rafting, kayaking, or boating. In that situation, by far the most likely use of the knife is to quickly cut free from entanglements in rope, web, fishing line, etc. When you are at risk for being pulled underwater, the small advantage of a serrated blade for cutting cordage is worth it. The only serrated blades I own are attached to PFDs.

For general use, a plain edge is by far more versatile, IMHO. If properly sharpened, it will cut rope/webbing almost as easily as a serrated blade. And a plain edge is vastly better for virtually everything else one might do with a knife.

That's my opinion. Others may differ.

Thanks to both responses. That’s been my experience also. I have two serrated knives — both are fully serrated with blunt tips. One is attached to my aviation survival vest and the other is in the console of my truck. I have the knife boxed up with label attached for its return trip — nice knife, just not for me.