http://www.recorderonline.com/news/two-f...73a4cef699.html

Not a good weekend at the park. The description of the climbing fatality is perplexing - if the individual was "traversing the north face of Whitney" he was seriously off route. The Mountaineer's route climbs an obvious couloir (gully) and is normally non-technical (rated Class III-no rope required). The route was first used by John Muir in 1873. Of course, there has been heavy snowfall in the Sierras this winter, so normal conditions are probably absent.

Falls and drownings, along with automobile accidents, are the leading causes of death in the outdoors.

Especially in the Sierra Nevada in the spring. The stream crossings will be Yuge
this year. Soloing over steep snow fields won't be such a Bigly idea either.

The Mountaineers route has at least one cliff that one normally just traverses around, but if the climber was above, slipped and couldn't self arrest---.

Sorry to see that. But very believable.

I climbed Whitney twice ... once by the trail .. and the second time by the rock route (SE face)? As you say, there is also a classic route up the couloir - the Mountaineers Route.

I still remember - very clearly - the descent, after we reached the summit. And it was indeed very hazardous. There were 3 in my party. We were exuberant, but very tired and dehydrated. The descent on the north face involves working your way down a slope with a lot of ice and snow mixed in with the rock. The snow is not deep, but the patches of ice were very tricky. We did it at night, and without ropes. That was NOT good judgment. But we were running out of time. I remember thinking then ... one slip here, you will slide, and it's certain death. Very true - it is.

Sorry to see the report. I don't like to see young people lose their lives like that. The smart strategy is to use a rope for the descent to add safety. But few climbers do it.

Incidentally, that climbing experience was the first time in my life - when I saw a person break down from stress and exhaustion. One of our group reached their limits, after we finished descending that north face. The combination of energy loss, and danger, caused their mind to shut down. They just sat down on a rock in the middle of the night - and would not go any further. It was near midnight, and we still had a long way to go - to get home. Not a trivial situation :-)

Pete

I, too, have done Whitney twice - once up by the MR and down the trail. The second ascent was up the East Face and down the MR, fortunately still in daylight. The best way off the hill from the summit is to follow the north trending ridge down to the gully that is the MR. I remember it as steep with loose talus being the biggest obstacle (and of course by that time one is a wee bit tired, as well). Sounds like the person who died might have veered away from the MR and tried directly for the summit. That is much steeper terrain and a rope and companion are a good idea.

Hikermor.

Congratulations on your ascents. The rock climbing route on Whitney remains as one of my wonderful memories. There is very dramatic and beautiful scenery on the side of that mountain. We didn't descend the couloir when I did the ascent, because there was still substantial snow in the couloir and we didn't have snow/ice gear.

I think that you're right. The climber with the mishap tried to go down the North face, but instead missed his descent path and actually went down the NW face. Even more dangerous. It is a very sad outcome. It is very easy to get "turned around" when it is dark and you are tired.

Good analysis. Prayers for the family involved.

Pete

https://www.facebook.com/276737786013059/videos/442622306091272/?hc_ref=PAGES_TIMELINE

There was apparently yet another victim on the MR about the time of the solo climber's demise -an alanche victim with a broken leg. This is dramatic video from an unusual perspective. i have seen many from the ground up, but never any footage from the bird itself.